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riverman wrote:
Michael Daly wrote: wrote: So where should you buy ropes and straps? And how does someone who is new to all of this determine what kind of ropes and straps to buy? Straps with ancra buckles are available at any place that sells racks and accessories as well as at most paddling shops. Rope comes in many forms - you will want good stuff that does not change length much when wet. For that reason, polyester is a good choice. Good quality polyester kernmantle construction braided line is available at a marine supply shop. Six millimeter (1/4 inch) is a good size to use. Nylon changes length too much when wet. Laid polypropylene (i.e. the twisted stuff from hardware stores) is crap, while the braided polypropylene is pretty good. Kevlar and Spectra are overkill for tiedowns. All good advice, but let me add the suggestion that you start with rope before you start using straps with ancra buckles. The reason is that you can do some serious damage to your car with the buckles. Most noobies start by holding the buckle and tossing the strap over the boat, around the rack and back over the boat. That leaves you pulling UP on the strap to tighten the rig which is completely inefficient, or else walking the entire rig around (you'll completely understand this the first time you do it). Then you will do the next best thing: hold the strap and toss the buckle over the boat. The problem comes if you toss *too much* strap with the buckle....the ancra buckle can thwap your side window or the car and bust the glass or chip the paint. Otherwise you don't toss enough strap and end up having to climb up on the roof to get it, or else it comes tumbling back down in your face. Tie down your boat with good poly-core line until you get a good feeling for how to toss a strap with a buckle....your windows, paint and teeth will thank you. :-) --riverman I drive a Cheep Cherokee Classic (one of the last with real rain gutters) and a Yakima rack with the longest bars (head bangers) they make. These are mounted over the top of the integrated luggage rack. When I carry a canoe, I use long loop straps (NRS) over the belly. They attach to the holes in the integrated rack travelers. The buckle end is only about 6 inches long, and by the time it is looped around and through, it is short enough that it never hits the roof or loosens and is ready when I need it I just leave it attached all season. It is a pull up to tighten however. Now originally, I used to use two belly tie downs.. The one in front attached to the left side of the front thwart, went over the top of the canoe and mated with the buckle on the right side of the vehicle. The back tie down attached to the right side of the rear thwart, went over the top of the canoe and mated with a buckle on the rear left side. Once attached, they were then secured in turn. Not sure where I got this idea or why Any merit to this approach? Comments always welcome! That method seemed like too much work, so I just switched to lefft side front and reat over the top secured to the right side. A bow and stern line and she is ready to go. I originally used the Yakima racks on a minivan to carry my rafting frame. It looked kind of funny up there with the highback foam seat and all. The YakRacks are great though. Carry everything on them. Plywood, steel shelving, 20 foot extension ladder. I just took them off for the winter - but given the wimpy weather we have been having, should have just left them up. No snow to speak of. Blakely -- Blakely LaCroix Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA "The best adventure is yet to come" |
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