(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
I've repaired several of them and it's not difficult once you make
the forms (two discs and a ring). If you intend to repair your own neck
seals going forward, make

Jigsawed the discs, did a trial fit and.... Oops! Looks like Kokatat either
subscribes to a different neck seal standard than my other dry suit makers or
they have their own. The seal I got from NRS (which lines up perfectly with my
Bare Polar...) needs a 7.5"/10" ring instead of a 6.5"/9.5" ring.

So I made a second ring... but discovered what I should have figured out
beforehand: the resultant footprint of the seal doesn't match up well enough
with Kokatat's neck opening.

I think I'll just do the seals on my old Bare, use that, and send the Kokatat
off to an outfit in CA that also does mods - since I also want the belt tunnel
about 3" lower anyhow.

Better yet, just order some seals from OS Systems. They definitely fit
and you'll need them eventually anyway. I always try to keep wrist seals
around, just in case. Which reminds me, I need to do mine and the
latex booties.

Per Brian Nystrom:
Better yet, just order some seals from OS Systems. They definitely fit
and you'll need them eventually anyway. I always try to keep wrist seals
around, just in case. Which reminds me, I need to do mine and the
latex booties.

I think I'll do that. As much as I'd like to get the lower belt tunnel, I
don't think it's worth the turnaround time at this point in the season.

Used the wooden jigs to do the neck on my old Bare Polar and it went like
clockwork. Carpet tape to stabilize things before assembly, 16 of the el-cheapo
plastic spring clamps that you used to clamp it while the AquaSeal went off.

http://www.kayakacademy.com/gasket.html has a Kokatat-compatible neck seal for
$25 and wrists for $10 each.

OTOH, OS Systems not only looks like a class operation - but they also offer the
neck seals in a greater size range.

After looking at OS' offerings, I wish I'd bought my new dry top from OS instead
of Kokatat.
--
PeteCresswell

Per (PeteCresswell):
Used the wooden jigs

What do you do about overflow sticking to the wood - and breaking the seal with
the double-sided tape? Looking more closely at your pix, it seems like I went
a little overboard with the two-sided tape.... so maybe you didn't have any
problem with that.

K-tat's instructions say something about wrapping everything in waxed paper or
cling wrap, but that seemed to defeat the function of the double-sided tape.

I slipped a wedge made from a utility knife blade with it's cutting edge sanded
flat in there and then pried gently with a screwdriver.
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per (PeteCresswell):
Used the wooden jigs

What do you do about overflow sticking to the wood - and breaking the seal with
the double-sided tape?

I covered the wood surfaces that might get glue on them with clear
plastic packing tape. The glue doesn't stick to it.

Looking more closely at your pix, it seems like I went
a little overboard with the two-sided tape.... so maybe you didn't have any
problem with that.

There are many kinds of double-sided tape and some definitely work
better than others. The last time I did one, the tape left goo all over
everything. The best stuff I've used is a thin plastic that looks like
wide Teflon tape, but I haven't seen it anywhere lately.

K-tat's instructions say something about wrapping everything in waxed paper or
cling wrap, but that seemed to defeat the function of the double-sided tape.

I agree with your assessment. Packing tape works better.

I slipped a wedge made from a utility knife blade with it's cutting edge sanded
flat in there and then pried gently with a screwdriver.

Whatever works without damaging the seal, right?

Per Brian Nystrom:
hatever works without damaging the seal, right?

When you order from Offshore, do you specify the standard (0.26")neck seal or
the commercial (0.30")?
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
hatever works without damaging the seal, right?

When you order from Offshore, do you specify the standard (0.26")neck seal or
the commercial (0.30")?

I've always used the standard seals. I'm not convinced that you gain
anything by making them thicker.