Howdy group just bought my first boat.

I am doing some checks before taking it, out its not charging the
battery.
Measure volts running same as not running.
Its tilt model 1992 50 hp, did checks for rectifier from this group, it
checks out ok. 12VDC at rectifier from battery red wire.
Are there some checks I can do on stator ie output or resistance
checks.
Also the auxillary is a not that old rude 2.3 hp is there any chance
these have a charging circuit.
Lucky I checked the water pump impellor it only had 1 leg on it!.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Taking it to outboard shop isnt an option I would rather smash the
motor and get another one than taking it to ripoff o/b shops here in
nz.

Thanks

tedheath

tedheath wrote:
Howdy group just bought my first boat.

I am doing some checks before taking it, out its not charging the
battery.
Measure volts running same as not running.
Its tilt model 1992 50 hp, did checks for rectifier from this group, it
checks out ok. 12VDC at rectifier from battery red wire.
Are there some checks I can do on stator ie output or resistance
checks.
Also the auxillary is a not that old rude 2.3 hp is there any chance
these have a charging circuit.
Lucky I checked the water pump impellor it only had 1 leg on it!.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Taking it to outboard shop isnt an option I would rather smash the
motor and get another one than taking it to ripoff o/b shops here in
nz.

Thanks

Chances are the 2.3 doesn't have a charging circuit. I think it's rope
pull, and I've never seen a starter motor for a motor that small.

Your 50 hp, probably/possibly has a bad stator under the flywheel.
they're not a heavy constructed winding, and sometimes, they won't
burn out, but there will be a pock mark in the enamel on a wire int he
winding itself, and wll corrode with humidity, and just get weak and
break. pretty simple to diagnose, I think that stator only has two
wires. which owuld be an input and an output. Its jsut one long wire
made into several coils. take an ohm meter and see if you have current
going though the leads,. if not? there's your problem.


Thats about all I know about it.

good luck.

tedheath

wrote:
On 23 Dec 2006 17:14:09 -0800, "tedheath" wrote:

Howdy group just bought my first boat.

I am doing some checks before taking it, out its not charging the
battery.
Measure volts running same as not running.
Its tilt model 1992 50 hp, did checks for rectifier from this group, it
checks out ok. 12VDC at rectifier from battery red wire.
Are there some checks I can do on stator ie output or resistance
checks.
Also the auxillary is a not that old rude 2.3 hp is there any chance
these have a charging circuit.
Lucky I checked the water pump impellor it only had 1 leg on it!.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Taking it to outboard shop isnt an option I would rather smash the
motor and get another one than taking it to ripoff o/b shops here in
nz.

Thanks

tedheath


Check the input to the rectifier for AC volts from the stator.





Thanks for replying.
I would like to do some checks before pulling off the flywheel. I
suppose to do that I would have to make a flywheel anti rotation device
and a flywheel puller.
There is 1.1 ohms resistance across the yellow and yellow grey wire.
There are 3 wires coming out of the stator which wires do I put the
meter across to measure AC volts?
Also does anyone know what the lever is on the back of the primer valve
for? Also on thje primer valve is a cap and under cap is shroeder valve
what is that for?
Thanks for any help.

tedheath

"tedheath" wrote in message
ups.com...


I would like to do some checks before pulling off the flywheel. I
suppose to do that I would have to make a flywheel anti rotation device
and a flywheel puller.
There is 1.1 ohms resistance across the yellow and yellow grey wire.
There are 3 wires coming out of the stator which wires do I put the
meter across to measure AC volts?
Also does anyone know what the lever is on the back of the primer valve
for? Also on thje primer valve is a cap and under cap is shroeder valve
what is that for?
Thanks for any help.

tedheath


There are two different charging styles on a '92 50hp, depending on the
model number. Both have 3 wires coming from the stator, measure the
resistance between the 3. About 1.1 ohms sounds right, but one pair will
have a bit more and I can't remember which color ones. Also using a high
ohms scale, check each yellow wire to ground for any shorts.

One charging system is unregulated and has a 4 wire rectifier module which
is about
$60 US, the other has a finned regulator which is fairly expensive, over
$200 US.

You cannot test the regulator, just replace it if the stator is OK and all
the wiring and connections are good. The rectifier is checked with an
ohmmeter between each yellow lead and the case, and each yellow lead and the
red wire. Reverse the meter connection at each test to see if it is infinity
one way and low resistance the other.

The primer red lever is the manual "choke" which allows fuel into the intake
for starting. The lever should be inline with the black pimer body, all the
way clockwise. The valve is for injecting carbon cleaner or fogging oil into
the motor, saving you from removing the air box and doing it manually.

Good luck

Bill Grannis
service manager

Billgran wrote:
"tedheath" wrote in message
ups.com...


I would like to do some checks before pulling off the flywheel. I
suppose to do that I would have to make a flywheel anti rotation device
and a flywheel puller.
There is 1.1 ohms resistance across the yellow and yellow grey wire.
There are 3 wires coming out of the stator which wires do I put the
meter across to measure AC volts?
Also does anyone know what the lever is on the back of the primer valve
for? Also on thje primer valve is a cap and under cap is shroeder valve
what is that for?
Thanks for any help.

tedheath


There are two different charging styles on a '92 50hp, depending on the
model number. Both have 3 wires coming from the stator, measure the
resistance between the 3. About 1.1 ohms sounds right, but one pair will
have a bit more and I can't remember which color ones. Also using a high
ohms scale, check each yellow wire to ground for any shorts.

One charging system is unregulated and has a 4 wire rectifier module which
is about
$60 US, the other has a finned regulator which is fairly expensive, over
$200 US.

You cannot test the regulator, just replace it if the stator is OK and all
the wiring and connections are good. The rectifier is checked with an
ohmmeter between each yellow lead and the case, and each yellow lead and the
red wire. Reverse the meter connection at each test to see if it is infinity
one way and low resistance the other.

The primer red lever is the manual "choke" which allows fuel into the intake
for starting. The lever should be inline with the black pimer body, all the
way clockwise. The valve is for injecting carbon cleaner or fogging oil into
the motor, saving you from removing the air box and doing it manually.

Good luck

Bill Grannis
service manager


Bill

Thank you very much for replying.
I have the 4 wire rectifier model , will do resistance checks tomorrow
if sober enough.
I cant run the motor until I get a water pump kit, which is a problem
being Xmas.
Bill is full clockwise primer fuel lever position primer on or off?

Thanks again for your help.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...


Hey Bill - You wouldn't happen to have a 25" mid section from a 2000
200 FICHT laying around your shop that you want to get rid of do you?


Contrary to what Australian Karen Smith thinks, the FICHTS I service are
still running so I don't have any "junkers" lying around. Sorry

Bill