-rick- wrote:
wrote:

Thanks in advance for measuring the clearance for me. No hurry. I
have a whole winter and next spring to shop for the kicker.

I have a question though: How do you get away from leaving the motor
down when you are towing the boat? Does your boat have a deep V hull?
I doubt that I can do this because mine is a semi-V hull and the boat
sits very low when it is on the trailer.

I'll get a measurement this weekend for you.

Trailering it down is possible because it doesn't extend
below the bottom enough to be a problem. It's only a 12
degree deadrise but the trailer has it sitting high enough.

-rick-

Thanks for explaining why you can keep the kicker down while towing.
Unfortunately, I don't have this option because my boat is sitting
quite close to the ground when towing.

Thanks again for measuring the length for me.

Jay Chan

"-rick-" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:

Thanks in advance for measuring the clearance for me. No hurry. I
have a whole winter and next spring to shop for the kicker.

I have a question though: How do you get away from leaving the motor
down when you are towing the boat? Does your boat have a deep V hull?
I doubt that I can do this because mine is a semi-V hull and the boat
sits very low when it is on the trailer.

I'll get a measurement this weekend for you.

Trailering it down is possible because it doesn't extend below the bottom
enough to be a problem. It's only a 12 degree deadrise but the trailer
has it sitting high enough.

-rick-


I trailer with mine partway up. I learned from the guys trailering Baja,
and cut a length of PVC pipe and cut an opening down the side and it snaps
on to the piston rod, so the motor rides on the PVC instead of on the
piston.

Calif Bill wrote:

I trailer with mine partway up. I learned from the guys trailering Baja,
and cut a length of PVC pipe and cut an opening down the side and it snaps
on to the piston rod, so the motor rides on the PVC instead of on the
piston.

I wonder more about the wear it gets on the water. I had to
replace the support pin on my old Honda once.

See "T8 tilted" on alt.binaries.pictures.sports.ocean

wrote
I would like to know some info about Yamaha 8hp High Thrust 4-stroke
outboard motor

I don't have any info on the Yamaha, Jay, but I'm curious, did you get your
big motor back together and resolve the overheating problem?

Ernest Scribbler wrote:
wrote
I would like to know some info about Yamaha 8hp High Thrust 4-stroke
outboard motor

I don't have any info on the Yamaha, Jay, but I'm curious, did you get your
big motor back together and resolve the overheating problem?

Yes, it is working fine as long as I follow a certain way to get water
into the lower unit. I have already posted a follow-up. Somehow, the
only way to get the water into the lower unit (and pumped up to the
telltale) is to put the lower unit into a water bucket _and_ aim a
water hose directly at the top-water-inlet in the lower unit. Won't
work any other way (muff attachment doesn't work for it). I don't know
why it is so cranky about the way it gets water though.

Jay Chan

This is not advertising hype. The reason it is high thrust is the high gearing
ratio and
large prop surface area with the proper pitch. It is otherwise known as a
'pusher',
as opposed to a 'egg beater'.

Sherwin D.

Larry wrote:

sherwindu wrote in
:

This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a
somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the necessity for an
assisted lifter.


Geez, you'd think it was a diesel!

Love the "High Thrust". I'll bet it's as high as any 9.9hp
outboard...putting out 9.9hp like it does...or is supposed to....(c;

Those marketing guys invent some great stuff, don't they?

I have a Yam 3, 2 stroker. You can carry it with one hand, even if the
gas tank on top of it is full of premix 2-stroke gas! Funny thing is, I
can't find the cooling water ****er on it. A little water comes out the
pressure relief hole in the exhaust and it doesn't overheat so it must be
fine. I'd still like to see water ****ing out of it, but it never has.
Little thing planes a 9.6' Watertender dingy if I set in the middle seat
(255 #) and leave my 2 gallon jerry can in the bow.

One of the dock neighbors of Lionheart had the boat sitting in just awful
conditions, flooded with rainwater, its bottom covered with beasts
between his sailboat and the dock. I asked him if he'd like me to pump
it out, before it sank which I found out is impossible full of water,
with my rechargeable bilge pump. "You want it? It's yours. I'll bring
the title from Atlanta next time I come down", he says. Never in my life
have I ever turned down a free boat that was still afloat. Waste Marine
sells them for $500. Another yachtie friend wanted me to come put up a
motion sensor light over his garage doors. While I was on the ladder, I
told him of my good fortune getting the free boat. When I was about to
leave, he comes out with this hardly-used Yamaha 3 and says, "Here.
It'll need a motor. My back can't stand riding in a dingy and we only
used it twice. It's been taking up garage space ever since."

The most I got in it was the $35 to re-register it and renew the license.
My story of a "free boat" fell on deaf ears at the tax and license
offices....(c; The county wants $13/year. They think its a Hatteras.

My neighbors' kids think it's a Redneck Spa. They fill it with water
sitting on the lawn and have more fun in it than any adult could have....

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the
necessity for an assisted lifter.

Does yours a fully-manual-motor-lifter or a hydraulic-assisted /
manually-operated motor-lifter?

It is a manual lifter. I am getting into the 'golden years', but find that I
can
still raise and lower the 100 lb. Yamaha with my Garelick. I did buy a
special
tool to give me leverage in tilting the engine out of the water, and that
saves
a lot of strain on the back.

I see that Garelick has a
hydraulic-assisted / manually-operated motor-lifter. But I am not sure
how well it works considering the fact that I have a "container" (box)
right in front of the kicker. If I used a manually operated motor
lifter, that "container" would get in the way when I tried to lift the
motor up, and I would have to bending my back in an awkward angle.
That is the reason why I want the powered trim option.

Other options would be to mount the engine on the opposite side of the
stearn where there is more clearance. You can also shim out the Garelick,
as I did, to give you more clearance.



What I did to support the engine was buy a big piece of stainless
steel plating, which I used as a backing plate for the Garelick.
This distributes the load across a larger area of the transom.

Thanks for the suggestion of using a SS backing plate. How thick the
backing plate do you need for your 9.9hp motor?

I probably did an overkill on this, but I don't remember the exact thickness.

It was pretty hefty stuff, and required some hardened drill bits to get
through it.



... I also was worried about the engine hitting the transom when
fully tilted up. ...

I don't quite understand. Why do you need to tilt up the motor? If
your motor lifter is going to lift the motor straight up and down
vertically, it should not need to be tilted up, and it should never hit
the transom, right?

Even with the 11 1/2 inch lift range of the Garelick, I could not position
the engine
to both get it low in the water for following sea conditions, and also get
the prop
completely out of the water . Maybe my transom is higher than yours? I also
find
that it is easier to do maintenance and/or repair on the engine when it is
tilted up.
In the up position, the shims I added keep the engine from hitting the
transom
when it is tilted upwards. I also have the long shaft model Yamaha, which
would
make a completely vertical operation harder to do.

Sherwin D.



Jay Chan

sherwindu wrote:
" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the
necessity for an assisted lifter.

Does yours a fully-manual-motor-lifter or a hydraulic-assisted /
manually-operated motor-lifter?

It is a manual lifter. I am getting into the 'golden years', but find that I
can
still raise and lower the 100 lb. Yamaha with my Garelick. I did buy a
special
tool to give me leverage in tilting the engine out of the water, and that
saves
a lot of strain on the back.

I see that Garelick has a
hydraulic-assisted / manually-operated motor-lifter. But I am not sure
how well it works considering the fact that I have a "container" (box)
right in front of the kicker. If I used a manually operated motor
lifter, that "container" would get in the way when I tried to lift the
motor up, and I would have to bending my back in an awkward angle.
That is the reason why I want the powered trim option.

Other options would be to mount the engine on the opposite side of the
stearn where there is more clearance. You can also shim out the Garelick,
as I did, to give you more clearance.



What I did to support the engine was buy a big piece of stainless
steel plating, which I used as a backing plate for the Garelick.
This distributes the load across a larger area of the transom.

Thanks for the suggestion of using a SS backing plate. How thick the
backing plate do you need for your 9.9hp motor?

I probably did an overkill on this, but I don't remember the exact thickness.

It was pretty hefty stuff, and required some hardened drill bits to get
through it.



... I also was worried about the engine hitting the transom when
fully tilted up. ...

I don't quite understand. Why do you need to tilt up the motor? If
your motor lifter is going to lift the motor straight up and down
vertically, it should not need to be tilted up, and it should never hit
the transom, right?

Even with the 11 1/2 inch lift range of the Garelick, I could not position
the engine
to both get it low in the water for following sea conditions, and also get
the prop
completely out of the water . Maybe my transom is higher than yours? I also
find
that it is easier to do maintenance and/or repair on the engine when it is
tilted up.
In the up position, the shims I added keep the engine from hitting the
transom
when it is tilted upwards. I also have the long shaft model Yamaha, which
would
make a completely vertical operation harder to do.

Sherwin D.

Jay Chan

Thanks for the follow-up.

I have pretty much decided on extending the transom upward and mounting
the kicker onto the extended transom. Then, I will need to tilt the
kicker up instead of lifting it up vertically. In other words, I will
not use the motor bracket from Garelick.

Jay Chan

Just make sure you can get the prop deep enough in the water for all weather
conditions, including big following seas where the prop could come out of the
water from wave action. I would not run it extra deep for calmer sea conditions,
as that would not be an efficient way to run it, in that case. Being able to raise
and
lower the engine prop in running conditions has certain advantages. At certain
depths the prop is more subject to picking up weeds or hitting submerged rocks.

Sherwin D.

" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the
necessity for an assisted lifter.

Does yours a fully-manual-motor-lifter or a hydraulic-assisted /
manually-operated motor-lifter?

It is a manual lifter. I am getting into the 'golden years', but find that I
can
still raise and lower the 100 lb. Yamaha with my Garelick. I did buy a
special
tool to give me leverage in tilting the engine out of the water, and that
saves
a lot of strain on the back.

I see that Garelick has a
hydraulic-assisted / manually-operated motor-lifter. But I am not sure
how well it works considering the fact that I have a "container" (box)
right in front of the kicker. If I used a manually operated motor
lifter, that "container" would get in the way when I tried to lift the
motor up, and I would have to bending my back in an awkward angle.
That is the reason why I want the powered trim option.

Other options would be to mount the engine on the opposite side of the
stearn where there is more clearance. You can also shim out the Garelick,
as I did, to give you more clearance.



What I did to support the engine was buy a big piece of stainless
steel plating, which I used as a backing plate for the Garelick.
This distributes the load across a larger area of the transom.

Thanks for the suggestion of using a SS backing plate. How thick the
backing plate do you need for your 9.9hp motor?

I probably did an overkill on this, but I don't remember the exact thickness.

It was pretty hefty stuff, and required some hardened drill bits to get
through it.



... I also was worried about the engine hitting the transom when
fully tilted up. ...

I don't quite understand. Why do you need to tilt up the motor? If
your motor lifter is going to lift the motor straight up and down
vertically, it should not need to be tilted up, and it should never hit
the transom, right?

Even with the 11 1/2 inch lift range of the Garelick, I could not position
the engine
to both get it low in the water for following sea conditions, and also get
the prop
completely out of the water . Maybe my transom is higher than yours? I also
find
that it is easier to do maintenance and/or repair on the engine when it is
tilted up.
In the up position, the shims I added keep the engine from hitting the
transom
when it is tilted upwards. I also have the long shaft model Yamaha, which
would
make a completely vertical operation harder to do.

Sherwin D.

Jay Chan

Thanks for the follow-up.

I have pretty much decided on extending the transom upward and mounting
the kicker onto the extended transom. Then, I will need to tilt the
kicker up instead of lifting it up vertically. In other words, I will
not use the motor bracket from Garelick.

Jay Chan

Thanks for pointing out the advantage of lifting the motor up
vertically vs tilting it up. I will make sure the shaft of the kicker
will be long enough to handle the situation when there is a big
following sea and the main motor doesn't work that I need to rely on
the kicker to bring me home.

Jay Chan


sherwindu wrote:
Just make sure you can get the prop deep enough in the water for all weather
conditions, including big following seas where the prop could come out of the
water from wave action. I would not run it extra deep for calmer sea conditions,
as that would not be an efficient way to run it, in that case. Being able to raise
and
lower the engine prop in running conditions has certain advantages. At certain
depths the prop is more subject to picking up weeds or hitting submerged rocks.

Sherwin D.

" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the
necessity for an assisted lifter.

Does yours a fully-manual-motor-lifter or a hydraulic-assisted /
manually-operated motor-lifter?

It is a manual lifter. I am getting into the 'golden years', but find that I
can
still raise and lower the 100 lb. Yamaha with my Garelick. I did buy a
special
tool to give me leverage in tilting the engine out of the water, and that
saves
a lot of strain on the back.

I see that Garelick has a
hydraulic-assisted / manually-operated motor-lifter. But I am not sure
how well it works considering the fact that I have a "container" (box)
right in front of the kicker. If I used a manually operated motor
lifter, that "container" would get in the way when I tried to lift the
motor up, and I would have to bending my back in an awkward angle.
That is the reason why I want the powered trim option.

Other options would be to mount the engine on the opposite side of the
stearn where there is more clearance. You can also shim out the Garelick,
as I did, to give you more clearance.



What I did to support the engine was buy a big piece of stainless
steel plating, which I used as a backing plate for the Garelick.
This distributes the load across a larger area of the transom.

Thanks for the suggestion of using a SS backing plate. How thick the
backing plate do you need for your 9.9hp motor?

I probably did an overkill on this, but I don't remember the exact thickness.

It was pretty hefty stuff, and required some hardened drill bits to get
through it.



... I also was worried about the engine hitting the transom when
fully tilted up. ...

I don't quite understand. Why do you need to tilt up the motor? If
your motor lifter is going to lift the motor straight up and down
vertically, it should not need to be tilted up, and it should never hit
the transom, right?

Even with the 11 1/2 inch lift range of the Garelick, I could not position
the engine
to both get it low in the water for following sea conditions, and also get
the prop
completely out of the water . Maybe my transom is higher than yours? I also
find
that it is easier to do maintenance and/or repair on the engine when it is
tilted up.
In the up position, the shims I added keep the engine from hitting the
transom
when it is tilted upwards. I also have the long shaft model Yamaha, which
would
make a completely vertical operation harder to do.

Sherwin D.

Jay Chan

Thanks for the follow-up.

I have pretty much decided on extending the transom upward and mounting
the kicker onto the extended transom. Then, I will need to tilt the
kicker up instead of lifting it up vertically. In other words, I will
not use the motor bracket from Garelick.

Jay Chan