wrote:
Larry, I'm not disputing your word, but are you sure there would be an
oil problem?

The reason I ask, is because I have a 4-cycle weed eater,a nd it
doesn'tmatter how you lay it, nor what angle you run it, there hasn't
had a problem with oil leaking or foaming out of where ever it can get
out.

Just curious....

I have the T-8 and it can be laid on one side. The power
tilt gets it up pretty high. I leave it down towing but run
some pretty rough water with it up and have had no oil
problems so far.

If Jay can wait a day or so I'll try to remember to measure
the clearance needed when tilted up.

-rick-

-rick- wrote:
wrote:
Larry, I'm not disputing your word, but are you sure there would be an
oil problem?

The reason I ask, is because I have a 4-cycle weed eater,a nd it
doesn'tmatter how you lay it, nor what angle you run it, there hasn't
had a problem with oil leaking or foaming out of where ever it can get
out.

Just curious....

I have the T-8 and it can be laid on one side. The power
tilt gets it up pretty high. I leave it down towing but run
some pretty rough water with it up and have had no oil
problems so far.

If Jay can wait a day or so I'll try to remember to measure
the clearance needed when tilted up.

-rick-

Thanks in advance for measuring the clearance for me. No hurry. I
have a whole winter and next spring to shop for the kicker.

I have a question though: How do you get away from leaving the motor
down when you are towing the boat? Does your boat have a deep V hull?
I doubt that I can do this because mine is a semi-V hull and the boat
sits very low when it is on the trailer.

Jay Chan

wrote:

Thanks in advance for measuring the clearance for me. No hurry. I
have a whole winter and next spring to shop for the kicker.

I have a question though: How do you get away from leaving the motor
down when you are towing the boat? Does your boat have a deep V hull?
I doubt that I can do this because mine is a semi-V hull and the boat
sits very low when it is on the trailer.

I'll get a measurement this weekend for you.

Trailering it down is possible because it doesn't extend
below the bottom enough to be a problem. It's only a 12
degree deadrise but the trailer has it sitting high enough.

-rick-

wrote in news:1163572729.178236.272190
@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:

The reason I ask, is because I have a 4-cycle weed eater,a nd it
doesn'tmatter how you lay it, nor what angle you run it, there hasn't
had a problem with oil leaking or foaming out of where ever it can get
out.



Damned cheap *******s wouldn't put even the owner's manual on the net in
pdf format. They want you to BUY one, so I couldn't quote from it. But,
all the portable 4-stroke outboards, like the Yam8 I've seen, warn you in
the manual to carry it by the handle, lay it on its back or on one side
ONLY so the oil doesn't run out of it into the carb, escaping into the case
I'd guess. Lionheart's 5hp Nissan specifically forbids carrying it or
laying it in certain ways or bad things happen.

Premix 2-stroke motors are just better for a portable outboard...lighter,
more powerful, noisier, smokier but you don't have to change the oil or
worry about how you lay it on the dock or in the trunk....er, ah, if you
ran the carb floats dry, that is...(c;

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

Larry wrote:
" wrote in
oups.com:

2. Any downside of doing this?


Yes. It's a 4-stroke with OIL in it. You must be very careful the OIL in
it doesn't go where it's not supposed to go. You can only lay down a 4-
stroker certain ways, and even then I'd be deathly afraid the oil would be
splashing around in there where it's not supposed to go, laying down like
that, while you were underway with the other motor.

I am not aware that oil from a 4-stroke motor can leak out that easily.
None of the operator manual of all my 4-stroke gas-powered equipment
have a warning about this. At most they ask me to turn off the fuel
valve or run the motor dry before putting the motor on its side (like
when I need to do an oil change on the motor). Anyway, this probably
should not be a problem to me because I rarely ever tilt the motor to
its highest position.

Too bad it's not a 2 stroker. It wouldn't matter, then, especially if you
took the stupid oil injection off it and premixed its gas the way a 2-
stroker is supposed to be run...dry.

I can see that a small 2-stroke is a good choice if it is being used to
plane a small boat. But I will use the small outboard as a kicker and
the boat will be running quite slowly. I have a feeling that I will
smell the exhaust from the 2-stroke motor if the wind is blowing from
behind the boat. Therefore, I will get a 4-stroke instead of a
2-stroke.

I like the lift idea hooked to the stern....the kind they use on the stern
of outboard-powered sailboats that lifts the hole motor back then up to
lock into a totally dry position above the stern while underway. The motor
would be parked in its proper upright position where the OIL is not an
issue. You can even work on it if it's broke, that way.

As mentioned in my post, I will get a motor that has a powered trim
option. This means I really don't need the manual-motor-lifter such as
those from Garelick. Garelick has a powered-motor-lifter that we can
use to lift a motor straight up or down just by hitting a button;
unfortunately, that powered-motor-lifter from Garelick is very
expensive (as much as the price of the small outboard itself). Thanks
for the suggestion though.

Jay Chan

This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust 4 stroke.
It is a
somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the necessity for an assisted lifter.
What
I did to support the engine was buy a big piece of stainless steel plating,
which I used
as a backing plate for the Garelick. This distributes the load across a larger
area of the transom.
As far as the mounting height, if you go to the Garelick web site or one of
their vendors, you will
find some mounting instructions. I also was worried about the engine hitting
the transom when
fully tilted up. I solved this by introducting some hardwood shims between the
bracket and the
transom to move the engine further astern. I have the long shaft engine, so I
got the Garelick
with the greatest lift height (about 11 inches, I believe). You then have to
position the bracket at
the height on the transom which will get the prop low enough in the water for
rough
following sea conditions, yet high enough to lift it clear of your transom. The
Garelick has 4 lockable
positions for setting the height of the engine for various sea conditions.

Hope this helps,

Sherwin D.

" wrote:

I would like to know some info about Yamaha 8hp High Thrust 4-stroke
outboard motor when it is fully tilted up.

I am planning to get that Yamaha motor as a kicker for trolling and
backup. Unfortunately, I cannot mount it directly on the transom of my
boat. The reason is that the transom only has one opening for the main
motor. The boat has a container in each side of the opening. I cannot
mount the motor over the container because the container is a flimsy
structure. I will have to somehow mount the motor at the back of the
transom.

I could have installed a manual-motor-lift (such as the one from
Garelick); but I am looking for the version of Yamaha 8hp outboard
that has a power-trim function. This means instead of having the
outboard lifting straight up and down, I will have it tilting up and
down.

Seem like the best way is to install a motor bracket behind the
transom, mount the 8hp motor on the motor bracket, and has the 8hp
motor kind of sticking out. The question is how far that I should have
it sticking up. If it is not sticking out far enough, the cowl of the
motor will hit the container that I mentioned above when the motor is
fully tilted up. If it is sticking out to far, I am afraid that it
will add too much stress on the transom. I want the motor bracket
sticking out just far enough not to hit the container when the motor is
fully tilted up.

My questions a
1. What is the distance between the far end of the cowl and
the motor mount when the motor is fully tilted up?
2. Any downside of doing this?
3. Any better idea?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

sherwindu wrote in
:

This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a
somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the necessity for an
assisted lifter.


Geez, you'd think it was a diesel!

Love the "High Thrust". I'll bet it's as high as any 9.9hp
outboard...putting out 9.9hp like it does...or is supposed to....(c;

Those marketing guys invent some great stuff, don't they?

I have a Yam 3, 2 stroker. You can carry it with one hand, even if the
gas tank on top of it is full of premix 2-stroke gas! Funny thing is, I
can't find the cooling water ****er on it. A little water comes out the
pressure relief hole in the exhaust and it doesn't overheat so it must be
fine. I'd still like to see water ****ing out of it, but it never has.
Little thing planes a 9.6' Watertender dingy if I set in the middle seat
(255 #) and leave my 2 gallon jerry can in the bow.

One of the dock neighbors of Lionheart had the boat sitting in just awful
conditions, flooded with rainwater, its bottom covered with beasts
between his sailboat and the dock. I asked him if he'd like me to pump
it out, before it sank which I found out is impossible full of water,
with my rechargeable bilge pump. "You want it? It's yours. I'll bring
the title from Atlanta next time I come down", he says. Never in my life
have I ever turned down a free boat that was still afloat. Waste Marine
sells them for $500. Another yachtie friend wanted me to come put up a
motion sensor light over his garage doors. While I was on the ladder, I
told him of my good fortune getting the free boat. When I was about to
leave, he comes out with this hardly-used Yamaha 3 and says, "Here.
It'll need a motor. My back can't stand riding in a dingy and we only
used it twice. It's been taking up garage space ever since."

The most I got in it was the $35 to re-register it and renew the license.
My story of a "free boat" fell on deaf ears at the tax and license
offices....(c; The county wants $13/year. They think its a Hatteras.

My neighbors' kids think it's a Redneck Spa. They fill it with water
sitting on the lawn and have more fun in it than any adult could have....

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

This is not advertising hype. The reason it is high thrust is the high gearing
ratio and
large prop surface area with the proper pitch. It is otherwise known as a
'pusher',
as opposed to a 'egg beater'.

Sherwin D.

Larry wrote:

sherwindu wrote in
:

This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a
somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the necessity for an
assisted lifter.


Geez, you'd think it was a diesel!

Love the "High Thrust". I'll bet it's as high as any 9.9hp
outboard...putting out 9.9hp like it does...or is supposed to....(c;

Those marketing guys invent some great stuff, don't they?

I have a Yam 3, 2 stroker. You can carry it with one hand, even if the
gas tank on top of it is full of premix 2-stroke gas! Funny thing is, I
can't find the cooling water ****er on it. A little water comes out the
pressure relief hole in the exhaust and it doesn't overheat so it must be
fine. I'd still like to see water ****ing out of it, but it never has.
Little thing planes a 9.6' Watertender dingy if I set in the middle seat
(255 #) and leave my 2 gallon jerry can in the bow.

One of the dock neighbors of Lionheart had the boat sitting in just awful
conditions, flooded with rainwater, its bottom covered with beasts
between his sailboat and the dock. I asked him if he'd like me to pump
it out, before it sank which I found out is impossible full of water,
with my rechargeable bilge pump. "You want it? It's yours. I'll bring
the title from Atlanta next time I come down", he says. Never in my life
have I ever turned down a free boat that was still afloat. Waste Marine
sells them for $500. Another yachtie friend wanted me to come put up a
motion sensor light over his garage doors. While I was on the ladder, I
told him of my good fortune getting the free boat. When I was about to
leave, he comes out with this hardly-used Yamaha 3 and says, "Here.
It'll need a motor. My back can't stand riding in a dingy and we only
used it twice. It's been taking up garage space ever since."

The most I got in it was the $35 to re-register it and renew the license.
My story of a "free boat" fell on deaf ears at the tax and license
offices....(c; The county wants $13/year. They think its a Hatteras.

My neighbors' kids think it's a Redneck Spa. They fill it with water
sitting on the lawn and have more fun in it than any adult could have....

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

sherwindu wrote:
This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the
necessity for an assisted lifter.

Does yours a fully-manual-motor-lifter or a hydraulic-assisted /
manually-operated motor-lifter? I see that Garelick has a
hydraulic-assisted / manually-operated motor-lifter. But I am not sure
how well it works considering the fact that I have a "container" (box)
right in front of the kicker. If I used a manually operated motor
lifter, that "container" would get in the way when I tried to lift the
motor up, and I would have to bending my back in an awkward angle.
That is the reason why I want the powered trim option.

What I did to support the engine was buy a big piece of stainless
steel plating, which I used as a backing plate for the Garelick.
This distributes the load across a larger area of the transom.

Thanks for the suggestion of using a SS backing plate. How thick the
backing plate do you need for your 9.9hp motor?

... I also was worried about the engine hitting the transom when
fully tilted up. ...

I don't quite understand. Why do you need to tilt up the motor? If
your motor lifter is going to lift the motor straight up and down
vertically, it should not need to be tilted up, and it should never hit
the transom, right?

Jay Chan

" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
This year I installed a Garelick lifter for my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust
4 stroke. It is a somewhat heavy (100 lb.) engine, and thus the
necessity for an assisted lifter.

Does yours a fully-manual-motor-lifter or a hydraulic-assisted /
manually-operated motor-lifter?

It is a manual lifter. I am getting into the 'golden years', but find that I
can
still raise and lower the 100 lb. Yamaha with my Garelick. I did buy a
special
tool to give me leverage in tilting the engine out of the water, and that
saves
a lot of strain on the back.

I see that Garelick has a
hydraulic-assisted / manually-operated motor-lifter. But I am not sure
how well it works considering the fact that I have a "container" (box)
right in front of the kicker. If I used a manually operated motor
lifter, that "container" would get in the way when I tried to lift the
motor up, and I would have to bending my back in an awkward angle.
That is the reason why I want the powered trim option.

Other options would be to mount the engine on the opposite side of the
stearn where there is more clearance. You can also shim out the Garelick,
as I did, to give you more clearance.



What I did to support the engine was buy a big piece of stainless
steel plating, which I used as a backing plate for the Garelick.
This distributes the load across a larger area of the transom.

Thanks for the suggestion of using a SS backing plate. How thick the
backing plate do you need for your 9.9hp motor?

I probably did an overkill on this, but I don't remember the exact thickness.

It was pretty hefty stuff, and required some hardened drill bits to get
through it.



... I also was worried about the engine hitting the transom when
fully tilted up. ...

I don't quite understand. Why do you need to tilt up the motor? If
your motor lifter is going to lift the motor straight up and down
vertically, it should not need to be tilted up, and it should never hit
the transom, right?

Even with the 11 1/2 inch lift range of the Garelick, I could not position
the engine
to both get it low in the water for following sea conditions, and also get
the prop
completely out of the water . Maybe my transom is higher than yours? I also
find
that it is easier to do maintenance and/or repair on the engine when it is
tilted up.
In the up position, the shims I added keep the engine from hitting the
transom
when it is tilted upwards. I also have the long shaft model Yamaha, which
would
make a completely vertical operation harder to do.

Sherwin D.



Jay Chan