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#1
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posted to rec.boats
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Hi,
I'm planning to step from my 1992 Bayliner 2655 to a Maxum 1993 270 SCR. I want to get more power, since my current Bayliner got only a merc. 5.0 L (305 HP) and find some rides a little tuff. 1) Should I go with dual 4.3 L (205 HP) mercruiser or a single 7,4 L (454 HP) and what's the pros and cons of having 2 engines instead of one ? I can't make my mind about the fuel overall cost. 2) What about my upgrade choice, since I want more room, a better finishing and a smoother ride ? Thanks for your so appreciated advice. Guy |
#2
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Somewhere between 26-28 feet, you need to consider whether to go with
single or twin screws. Over 28 feet, twin screws are almost a given. Beyond that it really depends on where you boat and in what situations....Do you want speed or manuverability? Speed - just remember..."there's no replacement for displacement." At the time, you're 5.0 liter was probably a base engine and they likely offered a 5.7 upgrade or possibly a 7.4 option, but a 7.4 option would have been doubtful for a Bayliner at that time. The 5.0 is probably just adequate for the size of the boat...definitely not a thrill ride though. You might want to look at a single screw duo prop. I have a friend who has a 26' boat with a duo prop 5.7 350 which will do 55, or better, on a good day. Manuverability - Twin screws are a lot more manuverable in docking situations with wind, but you're gonna burn more fuel. I'm guessing a single 454 will probably burn less fuel than twin 4.3's...twin 305's would really cook, but that is probably not a Bayliner or Maxum option and that will definitely keep the Saudi's in business. Ride - A quick FYI, unless a boat is totally underpowered, your engine has little to do with your ride quality, so aside from the power issue, you should really ask yourself whether you've been "truly" happy with your Bayliner quality in terms of its ride/hull as well as the quality of the interior and hardware (windshield, etc). More importantly, a better brand will give you a much better ride, as Bayliners and Maxum's are not known for being solid/rigid hulls. Beyond that, I am almost positive that a Maxum is really a Bayliner in wolf's diguise. They are, or were, at that time owned by the same conglomerate. What I'm saying is that if you're gonna upgrade boats, you should upgrade brands. If you can swing it, look for a better brand like a Regal or Chaparell. Those brands won't break the bank like a Chris-Craft, Formula or a Cobalt, but they are solid mid-line boats and you won't regret it on the resale end either. pailleg wrote: Hi, I'm planning to step from my 1992 Bayliner 2655 to a Maxum 1993 270 SCR. I want to get more power, since my current Bayliner got only a merc. 5.0 L (305 HP) and find some rides a little tuff. 1) Should I go with dual 4.3 L (205 HP) mercruiser or a single 7,4 L (454 HP) and what's the pros and cons of having 2 engines instead of one ? I can't make my mind about the fuel overall cost. 2) What about my upgrade choice, since I want more room, a better finishing and a smoother ride ? Thanks for your so appreciated advice. Guy |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Century Coronado Cardel" wrote in message oups.com... Ride - A quick FYI, unless a boat is totally underpowered, your engine has little to do with your ride quality, so aside from the power issue, you should really ask yourself whether you've been "truly" happy with your Bayliner quality in terms of its ride/hull as well as the quality of the interior and hardware (windshield, etc). Exactly how is the quality of the interior and hardware of a Bayliner? Or are you just bashing the brand because of it's once deserved poor reputation that Bayliner shed in the 1990's. More importantly, a better brand will give you a much better ride, as Bayliners and Maxum's are not known for being solid/rigid hulls. Really? Care to explain how they build their hulls and what makes them inferior? Beyond that, I am almost positive that a Maxum is really a Bayliner in wolf's diguise. They are, or were, at that time owned by the same conglomerate. They still are. Brunswick also owns Sea Ray, Hatteras, Baja, Lund and Boston Whaler, as well as several others. With your logic one would conclude also that a Bayliner is really a Sea Ray in wolf's disguise, just as a Lund is really the same boat as a Boston Whaler. What I'm saying is that if you're gonna upgrade boats, you should upgrade brands. If you can swing it, look for a better brand like a Regal or Chaparell. Those brands won't break the bank like a Chris-Craft, Formula or a Cobalt, but they are solid mid-line boats and you won't regret it on the resale end either. How is a Chris-Craft a better built boat than a comparable Maxum? Sorry Patrick but it is obvious that you are giving advice when you really don't know what you are talking about. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() -- ****************************************** ***** Have a Gay Day! ***** ****************************************** John |
#5
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posted to rec.boats
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JIM,
In regards to your comment to me where you stated... "Sorry Patrick but it is obvious that you are giving advice when you really don't know what you are talking about." My reply is, as follows... Keep in mind, that the original poster was asking about single or twin screw power options, but when he questioned ride quality, I thought it appropriate to comment on boat quality, design and construction as these are huge factors in ride quality and if you don't realize that I would say ditto to your comment above. I am also surmising from your comments that you are either a Bayliner or a Maxum owner, which would explain your defensiveness of the brands. Beyond that, I was not planning on writing a novel about boat hull construction and I never claimed to be an master boat builder. I was simply trying to give the original poster some advice from my well over 30 years of boating experience. As far as my expertise...I've lived on a lake since I was born and I now own my own home on a lake, so I've been around boats ever since I can remember. I took a DNR boating class at age 14 and got certified which allowed me to drive a boat solo at 14, rather than waiting until I was 16. When I was 15, I started working at a marine dealer and worked there for several years, eventually moving from selling waterskis and equipment to selling Supra Inboard Ski Boats and working at boat shows. I used to work with the Manufacturers reps where I learned a lot about boat construction. I bought my first boat when I was 16, a 1970 Slickcraft (Pre-AMF), that had a rotten transom, which also gave me my first expensive lesson in boat construction and I've owned several boats since then. I am 38 years old and I currently own 2 boats, right now...a 1999 Malibu V-Drive and a Classic 1986 Century Coronado Cardel. Yes I realize Brunswick is a conglomerate that owns many brands of varying performance and quality just as I realize that Daimler owns Chrysler, Ford owns (Jaguar, Volvo, Range Rover), GM owns Saab and at least 25% of Toyota. Obviously, there are differences in the brands. I also realize that today's Bayliners are much better than the cookie cutter "Bayslimers" of the 80's, but the early Maxum's were popped from the same mold in Burgandy gelcoat as oppossed to the Blue Bayliners. Today, Maxum, like Bayliner has improved it's quality and likewise almost every boat manufacturer has improved its quality and performance with the advancement of better technology and materials, like resins, kevlar, etc. Likewise an 06 Chevy or Toyota is vastly improved over its 80's predecessors. As far as hull, there are several differences in resins and polymers. There are differences in gelcoat thicknesses. There are also different thicknesses and qualities of fiberglass matt (Woven roven/Biaxial) and different methods of laying it up. They may also lay more layers of biaxial matt or coremat for greater rigidity of the hull. While most mfr's may claim "hand laid hulls," more limited production boats spend more time and labor rolling each layer of matt ensuring less voids which means better adhesion (delamination) or less water penetration (blistering). This is why some boats may only build several hundred boats per year vs. thousands of boats per year. Go bang your hand on the side of a Cobalt and then on a Bayliner and tell me there is no difference. The Cobalt is thicker and more structurally rigid. As far as interior, there are several different grades of vinyls, flooring and hardware and there are several different methods of installing hardware and windshields. This explains why, after several years of pounding why some interiors rattle loose and vibrate and why some don't. The moral of the story is that there are different brands and qualities of boats and, like most things in life, you get what you pay for. I realize not everyone can or even will buy a Lexus Automobile or a Cobalt Boat, but in the boating market there are a lot of options, especially in the used market. Every boat I've owned has been used and purchased in immaculate condition. I maintain them in the same manner with the intention of keeping them, long term. Resale on a better brand boat is a huge factor to consider because people like me will pay a premium for a mid to high-line boat that we know has a lot of performance and quality built into it that will last for years. For me, I can see, sense and feel quality in a boat. If you can't, I would suggest taking a ride in a Cobalt and then hop in a Bayliner and explain to me that there is no difference in construction and quality. JimH wrote: "Century Coronado Cardel" wrote in message oups.com... Ride - A quick FYI, unless a boat is totally underpowered, your engine has little to do with your ride quality, so aside from the power issue, you should really ask yourself whether you've been "truly" happy with your Bayliner quality in terms of its ride/hull as well as the quality of the interior and hardware (windshield, etc). Exactly how is the quality of the interior and hardware of a Bayliner? Or are you just bashing the brand because of it's once deserved poor reputation that Bayliner shed in the 1990's. More importantly, a better brand will give you a much better ride, as Bayliners and Maxum's are not known for being solid/rigid hulls. Really? Care to explain how they build their hulls and what makes them inferior? Beyond that, I am almost positive that a Maxum is really a Bayliner in wolf's diguise. They are, or were, at that time owned by the same conglomerate. They still are. Brunswick also owns Sea Ray, Hatteras, Baja, Lund and Boston Whaler, as well as several others. With your logic one would conclude also that a Bayliner is really a Sea Ray in wolf's disguise, just as a Lund is really the same boat as a Boston Whaler. What I'm saying is that if you're gonna upgrade boats, you should upgrade brands. If you can swing it, look for a better brand like a Regal or Chaparell. Those brands won't break the bank like a Chris-Craft, Formula or a Cobalt, but they are solid mid-line boats and you won't regret it on the resale end either. How is a Chris-Craft a better built boat than a comparable Maxum? Sorry Patrick but it is obvious that you are giving advice when you really don't know what you are talking about. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Century Coronado Cardel" wrote in message oups.com... "GM owns Saab and at least 25% of Toyota. " Are you sure about the 25% Toyota ownership. I know they have a joint venture in California, and a shared R&D deal, but I don't think GM owns any part of Toyota. With SAAB you are dead-on, and it has proved to be a disaster. |
#7
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "John Wentworth" wrote in message . .. "Century Coronado Cardel" wrote in message oups.com... "GM owns Saab and at least 25% of Toyota. " Are you sure about the 25% Toyota ownership. I know they have a joint venture in California, and a shared R&D deal, but I don't think GM owns any part of Toyota. With SAAB you are dead-on, and it has proved to be a disaster. I believe GM has an interest in Isuzu. The Duromax diesel is an Isuzu design. Eisboch |
#8
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posted to rec.boats
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1) Should I go with dual 4.3 L (205 HP) mercruiser or a single 7,4 L
(454 HP) and what's the pros and cons of having 2 engines instead of one ? I can't make my mind about the fuel overall cost. For what it's worth, I've heard from owners their dual prop (e.g. bravo 3, volvo) gives improved efficiency/performance/tracking over a single prop ... or ... almost as good as having twin engines. So I'd test drive a dual prop. Plus there's a lot less to maintain/go wrong ... about 1/2 as much :-) |
#9
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posted to rec.boats
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Single 8.1, if available or 7.4 if not, with VP or Merc dual prop.
Sufficient performance with vastly better economy and much lower maint cost than with twins. DP sterndrive provides good manuverabilty as well. Butch "bowgus" wrote in message oups.com... 1) Should I go with dual 4.3 L (205 HP) mercruiser or a single 7,4 L (454 HP) and what's the pros and cons of having 2 engines instead of one ? I can't make my mind about the fuel overall cost. For what it's worth, I've heard from owners their dual prop (e.g. bravo 3, volvo) gives improved efficiency/performance/tracking over a single prop ... or ... almost as good as having twin engines. So I'd test drive a dual prop. Plus there's a lot less to maintain/go wrong ... about 1/2 as much :-) |
#10
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() I had a regal 242 cruser with a 350 and went to a wellcraft 3000 martinique with twin 350 this year and I can control this one better it close quarters than the smaller boat ever could and having 2 motors is so cool |
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