I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

I finally got it to run hooked up to the muffs so I took to the lake
today to see how it does in the water. It idles at 800 rpm like the
book says. Oil pressure is great. Temp stays at 165. It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.

Any ideas on what it could be? Will the timing advance keep the engine
from going into the higher rpm range? Or is it more likely I screwed
something up on the carb when I rebuilt it?

About the only thing I haven't changed is the timing advance parts.
It's a centrifigal advance. How would I know if it's bad?

Any ideas? I have worked my tail off for the last month getting this
engine in and running and it's so close I can taste it. If I can just
get this last thing fixed so it will go to WOT then I will be done.

"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...
I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

I finally got it to run hooked up to the muffs so I took to the lake
today to see how it does in the water. It idles at 800 rpm like the
book says. Oil pressure is great. Temp stays at 165. It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.

Any ideas on what it could be? Will the timing advance keep the engine
from going into the higher rpm range? Or is it more likely I screwed
something up on the carb when I rebuilt it?

About the only thing I haven't changed is the timing advance parts.
It's a centrifigal advance. How would I know if it's bad?

Any ideas? I have worked my tail off for the last month getting this
engine in and running and it's so close I can taste it. If I can just
get this last thing fixed so it will go to WOT then I will be done.



I am curious. Rochester Quadra-Jet four barrel carb by any chance?
(Otherwise know as the "Quadra-bog")

Eisboch

While it could be several items, I would first look over the shift interrupt
system and make sure it's adjusted properly and not causing the engine to
stumble due to mis adjustment causing a false hard or over shift.

If you are not familiar with this, you may want to seek the help of a pro
who is familiar with the Cobra shift systems and adjustments.

Ron Knapik

"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...
I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

I finally got it to run hooked up to the muffs so I took to the lake
today to see how it does in the water. It idles at 800 rpm like the
book says. Oil pressure is great. Temp stays at 165. It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.

Any ideas on what it could be? Will the timing advance keep the engine
from going into the higher rpm range? Or is it more likely I screwed
something up on the carb when I rebuilt it?

About the only thing I haven't changed is the timing advance parts.
It's a centrifigal advance. How would I know if it's bad?

Any ideas? I have worked my tail off for the last month getting this
engine in and running and it's so close I can taste it. If I can just
get this last thing fixed so it will go to WOT then I will be done.

(Otherwise know as the "Quadra-bog")


Don't forget "Rottenchester"
and "Quadra-junk"



Eisboch wrote:
"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...
I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

I finally got it to run hooked up to the muffs so I took to the lake
today to see how it does in the water. It idles at 800 rpm like the
book says. Oil pressure is great. Temp stays at 165. It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.

Any ideas on what it could be? Will the timing advance keep the engine
from going into the higher rpm range? Or is it more likely I screwed
something up on the carb when I rebuilt it?

About the only thing I haven't changed is the timing advance parts.
It's a centrifigal advance. How would I know if it's bad?

Any ideas? I have worked my tail off for the last month getting this
engine in and running and it's so close I can taste it. If I can just
get this last thing fixed so it will go to WOT then I will be done.



I am curious. Rochester Quadra-Jet four barrel carb by any chance?
(Otherwise know as the "Quadra-bog")

Eisboch

All you need to do is replace the secondary cam and they work great!
wrote in message
oups.com...
(Otherwise know as the "Quadra-bog")


Don't forget "Rottenchester"
and "Quadra-junk"



Eisboch wrote:
"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...
I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

I finally got it to run hooked up to the muffs so I took to the lake
today to see how it does in the water. It idles at 800 rpm like the
book says. Oil pressure is great. Temp stays at 165. It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.

Any ideas on what it could be? Will the timing advance keep the engine
from going into the higher rpm range? Or is it more likely I screwed
something up on the carb when I rebuilt it?

About the only thing I haven't changed is the timing advance parts.
It's a centrifigal advance. How would I know if it's bad?

Any ideas? I have worked my tail off for the last month getting this
engine in and running and it's so close I can taste it. If I can just
get this last thing fixed so it will go to WOT then I will be done.



I am curious. Rochester Quadra-Jet four barrel carb by any chance?
(Otherwise know as the "Quadra-bog")

Eisboch

"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...
I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.


Since you installed new points in that Prestolite distributor, did you
remember to install the points spring over the strap on the point assembly?
Many people don't know about that, and what they think is the spring is only
the "strap" that conducts the current from the points face to the
distributor connecting wire. Without the spring, the strap alone does not
have enough tension to allow the motor to rev up before bouncing the points
on the distributor cam.

Is it an automotive "long block" or a marine "long block" from a reputable
distributor ? With cams, pistons, and compression ratios designed for low
emissions and low rpm operation, an auto engine will not perform like a well
designed marine engine.

Bill Grannis
service manager

On Fri, 07 Jul 2006 11:58:04 GMT, "Billgran"
wrote:


"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
.. .
I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.


Since you installed new points in that Prestolite distributor, did you
remember to install the points spring over the strap on the point assembly?
Many people don't know about that, and what they think is the spring is only
the "strap" that conducts the current from the points face to the
distributor connecting wire. Without the spring, the strap alone does not
have enough tension to allow the motor to rev up before bouncing the points
on the distributor cam.

Is it an automotive "long block" or a marine "long block" from a reputable
distributor ? With cams, pistons, and compression ratios designed for low
emissions and low rpm operation, an auto engine will not perform like a well
designed marine engine.

Bill Grannis
service manager


I installed the points correctly. I was very careful and followed the
instructions to the letter. Gapped at precisely .019 like the book
said.

It's a marine engine from S&S engines in Washington.

I took the boat to the mechanic and he fixed it. He would not tell me
what he did to fix it though. He was really vague and would only say
he "fixed the ignition". Since I have replaced just about the entire
ignition system and he didn't charge for parts I suspect it was just
some fiddly little adjustment and he didn't want beaten for charging
$22 for fixing it.











On Fri, 07 Jul 2006 17:06:25 GMT, Ookie Wonderslug
wrote:

On Fri, 07 Jul 2006 11:58:04 GMT, "Billgran"
wrote:


"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
. ..
I just put a new long block in my boat. I rebuilt the carb, replaced
the distributor, points, condenser, thermostat, coil, new spark plugs,
and it had a new starter on it when I got it.

It runs solid and
smooth up to about 2200 rpm. It then sputters and acts like it may be
missing or choking out and will slowly get to around 2400 rpm. The
speed is 15 mph.


Since you installed new points in that Prestolite distributor, did you
remember to install the points spring over the strap on the point assembly?
Many people don't know about that, and what they think is the spring is only
the "strap" that conducts the current from the points face to the
distributor connecting wire. Without the spring, the strap alone does not
have enough tension to allow the motor to rev up before bouncing the points
on the distributor cam.

Is it an automotive "long block" or a marine "long block" from a reputable
distributor ? With cams, pistons, and compression ratios designed for low
emissions and low rpm operation, an auto engine will not perform like a well
designed marine engine.

Bill Grannis
service manager


I installed the points correctly. I was very careful and followed the
instructions to the letter. Gapped at precisely .019 like the book
said.

It's a marine engine from S&S engines in Washington.

"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
...

I took the boat to the mechanic and he fixed it. He would not tell me
what he did to fix it though. He was really vague and would only say
he "fixed the ignition". Since I have replaced just about the entire
ignition system and he didn't charge for parts I suspect it was just
some fiddly little adjustment and he didn't want beaten for charging
$22 for fixing it.

Without completely understanding the above statement, I will guess that the
timing needed adjusting.

On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 14:30:54 GMT, "Jim" wrote:


"Ookie Wonderslug" wrote in message
.. .

I took the boat to the mechanic and he fixed it. He would not tell me
what he did to fix it though. He was really vague and would only say
he "fixed the ignition". Since I have replaced just about the entire
ignition system and he didn't charge for parts I suspect it was just
some fiddly little adjustment and he didn't want beaten for charging
$22 for fixing it.

Without completely understanding the above statement, I will guess that the
timing needed adjusting.


I miswrote the price he charged me. It was $220.

I took the boat out today and it ran perfect. I mean it screamed down
the lake. My kids went skiing for the first time and loved it. I had 6
people on it and it still planed and hit about 38mph. Cool.