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Cooling Problem w/ 4.3 GL vovlo I/O
I'd only agree to a point. This is a trailer boat. I'm betting he's not
taking it 20 miles offshore. If the plug comes out the water will stop coming in when he stops the engine. One could run a while and then stop to let the bilge pump catch up. Besides we're talking about 3 or 4 lbs of pressure. I've seen these rubber plugs go for years in cars with 15lb pressures. I agree that it's certainly a good idea to get them in to make sure there are no other problems but similarly I would not pull the engine just to replace a couple casting plugs. He's not going to be in a position to pull the engine himself and a yard will charge him a grand or so to do it. I do share your concern that these plugs did not come put because of the overheating. It really sounds like this block may have frozen and the newer thin walled blocks seldom survive that. "trainfan1" wrote in message et... landshrk4 wrote: I am going to purchase a couple of plugs and install them to see if there are any other pending (hidden) issues. I had been told that I could get expansion plugs from a local parts dealer that are expandable by way of a bolt instead of the "tap in" types that would be supplied by Volvo (or aftermarket). Has anyone used these types of plugs? Can anyone recommend how to replace the plug that is behind the motor mount? It would be much easier to take it to a local repair shop but I want to do the work myself.... how else am I to learn the fundamentals? The rubber expansion plugs will work, to a point. In a marine environment, I would only use them to diagnose any further issues on a test basis, which I have done, because they have a probability of popping out, which will very quickly fill the bilge to a dangerous level with very little advance notice. No typical bilge pump would be able to keep up. If you can somehow extract the obstructed view/access one, you can probably slip a temporary plug in blind, tighten & test, otherwise you are looking at pulling the engine twice if you go rubber, once if you go with the brass to start & luck out with no other issues at re-start. Which brings us back to the initial failure - did you get ALL rubber fragments/parts out of the engine & drive when changing the impeller? If you can account for all parts, do the brass plugs and hope that the block is not cracked. Did you have any kind of low temperature alert or alarm in your storage area? Rob |
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