wrote:

: Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
: of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
: to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
: the trailer will be almost completely submerged. It's important to make
: sure that your wiring is waterproof (most people disconnect the brake
: lights before backing in) and that your wheel bearings are protected.


Good answer.

The key is to get the boat floating. Back up enough to get the back end of the
boat to "bob up". Note the depth of the trailer at that point. When
I retrieve my boats, I usually have the trailer a little more shallow than
the "float point" so it'll self center on the trailer. For my small I/O,
that's usually when the fender of the trailer is about 2 inches out
of the water.

However, every boat, trailer and ramp behaves differently so you'll have
to get to know your setup.

barry

On Mon, 07 Nov 2005 10:06:48 -0800, wrote:

wrote:

: Depending on the angle of the ramp, the depth of the water, the design
: of the trailer, and the draft of the boat on the trailer you will need
: to submerge the trailer to different depths to launch. Often this means
: the trailer will be almost completely submerged. It's important to make
: sure that your wiring is waterproof (most people disconnect the brake
: lights before backing in) and that your wheel bearings are protected.


Good answer.

The key is to get the boat floating. Back up enough to get the back end of the
boat to "bob up". Note the depth of the trailer at that point. When
I retrieve my boats, I usually have the trailer a little more shallow than
the "float point" so it'll self center on the trailer. For my small I/O,
that's usually when the fender of the trailer is about 2 inches out
of the water.

However, every boat, trailer and ramp behaves differently so you'll have
to get to know your setup.

barry
Like you, I find that I am about right when the tops of my trailer
fenders are just above water.

Dave Hall