The boat is a bow rider.
The deck underneath isn't finished at all. It's just fiberglass and the
carpet goes all the way up the insides of the boat and even gets pinched
under the ski locker trim plate. Although I do like the removable carpet
idea I don't think it's an option here without allot of modification.
I was just wondering if usually a spreadable adhesive or spray on is
currently used to attach carpet to unfinished floors.
Thanks.

John Gaquin wrote:

"Chris Mares" wrote in message
news:LpQJc.8765$SD3.2935@okepread06...

Hi everyone.
Hey does anyone have any recommendations on carpet adhesive for gluing
to a fiberglass deck?



I'd be inclined to use carpet tape, velcro, or snaps. When the carpet is
soaked or soiled or worn, you want it out of there easily.

Why not just velcro the stink out of it?

That carpet is going to get wet and filthy, as others have observed. When it
does, you won't want to be trying to remove the old glue so you and put in a
fresh patch of carpet.

Why extend the carpet under fixtures into unfinished areas at all?

On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 08:51:59 -0500, Chris Mares
wrote:
Although I do like the removable carpet
idea I don't think it's an option here without allot of modification.
==================================

If you talk to the folks at a good canvas shop they can probably
suggest a way to do it with snaps.

Wayne.B wrote in message . ..
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 08:51:59 -0500, Chris Mares
wrote:
Although I do like the removable carpet
idea I don't think it's an option here without allot of modification.
==================================

If you talk to the folks at a good canvas shop they can probably
suggest a way to do it with snaps.

I replaced the floor in my 19' fiberglass bowrider. I used treated
plywood. I then used contact cement to glue in the new carpet. Works
very well but is very messy to work with.

Rough cut the carpet about a foot longer and wider than the largest
dimensions. Lay the carpet in place dry and position it. Fold back
one half. Apply contact cement to both the floor and the back of the
carpet. Wait for it to get tacky. Slowly roll the carpet back into
position making sure to avoid wrinkles or bubbles. (Once that stuff
grabs, it is very hard to pull it back up.) Press it all down firmly
to make good contact. Repeat for the other side.

Trim the edges to fit. They make a special utility knife blade that
has a little hook in the end. It will cut the carpet but not cut into
the substrate if you're careful and work slowly.

Spreading a lot of contact cement is a pain. The pro's spray it. For
plywood, I usually dump a puddle of it out on the plywood and spread
it with a 6" drywall taping knife or the smooth edge of a tile trowel.
For the back of the carpet, I either paint it on with a very cheap
(disposable) 4" paintbrush or use a paint roller. Contact cement gets
sticky and stringy the longer you work with it.

Go for it.