Well,

Finally sold the old boat, and have now devoted my spare time to preparing
my new project boat for launch into the remainder of the Ohio summer.

As my first order of business, I hooked in shore power and started up systems.
Refrigerator? Check. Stove? Check. Outlets? Check.

I then turned on the water pressure and ran the antifreeze out of the
lines. I then started filling the tank (while still running the
faucets). Once the tank was filled. I turned on the hot water tank,
which immediately tripped the main breaker. I noticed the polarity
indicator, flashed before tripping the main. Tried several times with all
other systems powered off. Same results.

Any ideas? Never having a hot water system, am I overlooking something
obvious? Does this system need to be bled or reset at the water heater?
Could it be the polarity of the power, even though everything else was
working, and the polarity light does not flash until the tank is turned
on?

Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

Bob Dimond

Electric elements do "rot out" and expose the nichrome wire to the water. The
grounding/bonding will cause the breaker to trip if you have a lot of minerals
in the water. I would suggest removing them and giving them a quick look. If
they show signs of cracks or corrosion, replace them. They are cheap.
This can be exacerbated by buildup of those minerals at the bottom of the tank.
If the bottom element can't "breathe" it will quickly burn out and there is
plenty there to short it to the tank.
I have a piece of 1/2" CPVC rigged up to fit on my wet/dry vac to suck this
stuff out.

OT ... has anyone used engine heat, via a double isolation heat exchanger to
heat water? That sounds like a "free" way to do it if you are running.

On 14 Jun 2004 16:34:50 GMT, (Greg) wrote:

OT ... has anyone used engine heat, via a double isolation heat exchanger to
heat water? That sounds like a "free" way to do it if you are running.

=================================================

Not sure what you mean by a double isolation heat exchanger but most
marine hot water heaters have an internal coil for circulating engine
coolant and the heating water. It's very common if that is what you
meant.

Not sure what you mean by a double isolation heat exchanger

A double isolation exchanger is one with an intermediate fluid between the
potable water and the heating water. That way a single failure will not
contaminate your water. It is usually used any time the heating fluid is a
glycol mix.

On 14 Jun 2004 19:47:36 GMT, (Greg) wrote:

A double isolation exchanger is one with an intermediate fluid between the
potable water and the heating water. That way a single failure will not
contaminate your water. It is usually used any time the heating fluid is a
glycol mix.
===================================

Assuming you don't drink the hot water, a simple check valve in the
cold water supply line will suffice. I've never seen a boat with the
arrangement you describe, but anythings possible I suppose.

I think these systems are primarily in sailboats, to have hot water for
dishes and showers while at anchorage. Just like refrigerators that run
off of an engine mounted compressor.

Bob Dimond


In article , Wayne.B
wrote:

On 14 Jun 2004 19:47:36 GMT, (Greg) wrote:

A double isolation exchanger is one with an intermediate fluid between the
potable water and the heating water. That way a single failure will not
contaminate your water. It is usually used any time the heating fluid is a
glycol mix.
===================================

Assuming you don't drink the hot water, a simple check valve in the
cold water supply line will suffice. I've never seen a boat with the
arrangement you describe, but anythings possible I suppose.