I trust that, as is SOP with those critters, that you're choking the hell
out of it to start it? They need it.
They also need some throttle advance to catch and stay caught. - to about
1500 rpm. (never run above 2000 in neutral)

If you can pump the ball till it's hard and one of the carbs isn't gushing
gas, the float needles are probably seated.

If the fuel pump diaphram and the 2 check valves are good - it's good.

You MAY have to clean the carbs as something might have gummed up from
sitting - very common.

Assuming you clean the carbs and it STILL won't run. Then you need to think
about electrical issues.

I've seen bad switchboxes that only work when the starter is engaged (lower
voltage).

If you need more help post here... if you need any used parts for it contact
me at:

remove the saynotospam LOL

-W


None the less you probably need to totally eliminate the fuel system before
moving on.
"Blorf" wrote in message
...
Hello all,

I just brought my 1150 Merc 6 cyclinder outboard out of storage. Motor
has
been mechanicaly quiet an ran fine in the fall. It just didn't want to
start
for me this spring. Made a mild clacking sound (one per revolution) like
it
sometimes makes when cold if it hasn't been run for a few weeks. After a
few
aborted starts the clacking sound is gone. Kept playing with it but it
will
not continue to run once started. Replaced all the old fuel and drained
the
bowls, but no change. If I leave it sit for 5 minutes it will start and
idle
for 5 to 6 seconds. If I restrart it immediately it will fire up but quit
right away after a few cylinders fired. It seems to fire up immediately
everytime I turn the key and then abruptly quit after a few cylinders
fired.
If I let it sit a bit it will run for noticably longer before it quits.
Pumping the bulb when it is running doesn't seem to help.

I'm guessing this is fuel related as opposed to spark? I looked at the
fuel pump membrane and it looks fine. I pulled the plugs and they look
fine.
Could it be flooding on a pair of cylinders because of a faulty needle and
seat?

Thanks for your help.

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
nk.net...

Assuming you clean the carbs and it STILL won't run. Then you need to
think
about electrical issues.

I haven't cleaned the carb's yet but am seriously considering the coil. I
can get it to run for about 10 - 15 seconds from dead cold using the choke
and throttle as usual. After that I can get it to fire for one or two
seconds each time I use the starter, choke stalls it as it normaly would. If
I let it sit for a few minutes it will run for longer once restarted. If I
just keep trying to restart it it basicaly fires a few times and quits.
Priming with the bulb doesn't help. Sometimes I think I can hear it backfire
out the exhaust, not the intake. I've checked the spark while it's running
and it seems to change from strong to weak to strong on the plug wire I'm
watching. I think maybe the coil is shorting once it warms up. Anyone
experience this kind of coil failure before?

Coils are known to be temperature sensitive, although 10-15 seconds of
running shouldn't heat the coil up very much. Try spraying the coil with
electronic circuit cooler, you should be able to find this at an electronic
supply house. (Do you have an old CO2 fire extinguisher that you need to
replace anyway? That will work fine)


"Blorf" wrote in message
...

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
nk.net...

Assuming you clean the carbs and it STILL won't run. Then you need to
think
about electrical issues.

I haven't cleaned the carb's yet but am seriously considering the coil.
I
can get it to run for about 10 - 15 seconds from dead cold using the choke
and throttle as usual. After that I can get it to fire for one or two
seconds each time I use the starter, choke stalls it as it normaly would.
If
I let it sit for a few minutes it will run for longer once restarted. If I
just keep trying to restart it it basicaly fires a few times and quits.
Priming with the bulb doesn't help. Sometimes I think I can hear it
backfire
out the exhaust, not the intake. I've checked the spark while it's running
and it seems to change from strong to weak to strong on the plug wire I'm
watching. I think maybe the coil is shorting once it warms up. Anyone
experience this kind of coil failure before?

More likely the switchbox than the coil.

I have them all - 10 times over.

-W

"Blorf" wrote in message
...

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
nk.net...

Assuming you clean the carbs and it STILL won't run. Then you need to
think
about electrical issues.

I haven't cleaned the carb's yet but am seriously considering the coil.
I
can get it to run for about 10 - 15 seconds from dead cold using the choke
and throttle as usual. After that I can get it to fire for one or two
seconds each time I use the starter, choke stalls it as it normaly would.
If
I let it sit for a few minutes it will run for longer once restarted. If I
just keep trying to restart it it basicaly fires a few times and quits.
Priming with the bulb doesn't help. Sometimes I think I can hear it
backfire
out the exhaust, not the intake. I've checked the spark while it's running
and it seems to change from strong to weak to strong on the plug wire I'm
watching. I think maybe the coil is shorting once it warms up. Anyone
experience this kind of coil failure before?

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
ink.net...
More likely the switchbox than the coil.

I have them all - 10 times over.


Unfortunately I already ordered a coil from the local dealer before I saw
your post (stupid slow usenet). If that doesn't fix it I will contact you
for a switchbox. Thanks for the help.

The coils almost never fail... and I have those used too... sigh

If you need a part my cell in a simple code is: ^)# - #&) - )^$(

(assuming we have the same keyboard)

-W

"Blorf" wrote in message
...

"Clams Canino" wrote in message
ink.net...
More likely the switchbox than the coil.

I have them all - 10 times over.


Unfortunately I already ordered a coil from the local dealer before I
saw
your post (stupid slow usenet). If that doesn't fix it I will contact you
for a switchbox. Thanks for the help.

Well, I got lucky and it turned out to be the coil. I would in future
remove the old coil to look at it instead of taking a wild guess and
ordering a part. Had I done so I would have seen that the coil had lost it's
oil into the mounting casing which caused/contributed to it's failure.

2nd coil I've "seen" fail in 100 switchboxes - LOL.

-W

"Blorf" wrote in message
...
Well, I got lucky and it turned out to be the coil. I would in future
remove the old coil to look at it instead of taking a wild guess and
ordering a part. Had I done so I would have seen that the coil had lost
it's
oil into the mounting casing which caused/contributed to it's failure.