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*JimH*
 
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:08:26 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote:


"Stanley Barthfarkle" wrote in message
. ..
That trailer needs a forward keel roller to protect the front part of
the
hull from hitting the trailer frame crosspiece when loading.



That was not my question.

There is plenty of protection on the trailer from keeping that from
happening.


Actually, Jim, he may be right. I'm considering just that sort of
change to my trailer... and even dropping the front cross member to
facilitate the change. Due to the angle of my local ramp, my bow
contacts the bow support and goes "high and dry" with the bow, while
the stern floats. After the vessel is solely supported by the trailer,
I find that an inordinate amount of weight is supported by the bow
support.

The practical consideration is that the bow "runs aground" and the
stern "floats around" during the trailering sequence.

It might be worth a "look see."

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide




I will look to see if there is any deterioration of the keel from the
potential problem you noted. I did not see any when I looked at the boat
this afternoon. I would think that one of the owners would have noted it
over the past 16 years if it were a problem with a fairly simple solution.

We plan to dock the boat during the season and it will see the trailer only
at the end of the season and through winter.


  #12   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:50:55 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote:


"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
link.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1989! That is old as hell! Rocks don't get that old! Geeze, what an
idiot.... nobody would buy a boat that old......

PS.
Don't tell anybody, but mine is a 1987 model..... and I still get
compliments on the boat....

PPS
Damn nice boat. Go for it. Tell the bubble-boat aficionados to bit
you.... Hope you guys can make the deal and have a great time!

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide



Thanks Gene. I was even looking at a 1985 fixer upper that I could make
decent over the winter provided the hull and engine were in good shape. The
thing is that it is a foot smaller, had less horses and needed a replacement
of the entire interior and canvas.....all for an asking price of $4,900.
Who knows what a structural survey would have yielded.

At least with this one I get to test drive it for a full week and then go
through the structural survey and compression check I we decide we like it.
Our surveyor has already given us a thumbs up on the model.

How can you go wrong on a basic 21 footer in good shape and a hefty engine
for $5,000 with trailer?


  #13   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 21:02:34 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote:


I will look to see if there is any deterioration of the keel from the
potential problem you noted. I did not see any when I looked at the boat
this afternoon. I would think that one of the owners would have noted it
over the past 16 years if it were a problem with a fairly simple solution.

We plan to dock the boat during the season and it will see the trailer
only
at the end of the season and through winter.


Ooops... didn't mean to imply structural problems... frankly, there
might not an deterioration... it is just a matter of making it an
easier matter of re-trailering...

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide




Thanks Gene. What sort of modifications to the trailer would you suggest
based on the picture?

We will be trailering this boat to Kelleys Island next week and dropping it
in the water on Sunday, retrieving it back onto the trailer after a full
week in the water the following Sunday. I can make note of any retrieval
problems then.

The lack of bottom paint and my ability to properly clean the hull after
sitting a full week in the water concerns me though.


  #14   Report Post  
Bill McKee
 
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"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be
lifted to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed.
There are filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed.
Except for lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at
slip in mufflers but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull
exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop
on the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a
do it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with
a switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim
a noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is
being sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to
bring the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent
this boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.




Boat may not be as loud as you think it will be. I have thru hull exhaust.
Jetboat. And the new 350 MPI engine is a lot quieter than the former 351W.
so it may be with a 260 HP motor may not be loud at all. Drive it an try
it. Look at some of the tourny ski boats and you can see the exhaust
muffler system. Maybe you could find a wrecked skiboat and buy the muffler.


  #15   Report Post  
Garth Almgren
 
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Around 8/2/2005 6:00 PM, Gene Kearns wrote:

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!


Well, they're not *that* old...


:P
--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows


  #16   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 21:59:48 -0700, Garth Almgren
wrote:

Around 8/2/2005 6:00 PM, Gene Kearns wrote:

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!


Well, they're not *that* old...


Really, no.... when I see quite a few 2-3 times that old... in daily
service.... and they are wooden!

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide




We are headed out later today for an early evening cruise tonight on our
friend's 1966 26 foot Lyman (wood). A wood boat almost 40 years
old.........I shall fear for my life (while having a fun time on it). ;-)


  #17   Report Post  
JamesgangNC
 
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That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k estimate
is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound like you're
getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist. The
construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly make
for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on the
motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5 years
or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers closely.
It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?



  #18   Report Post  
JamesgangNC
 
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40 is not old for a wood boat. But 15 is old for a wood encapsulated
fiberglass boat.

I think if you do some research on fiberglass boats you'll learn that
fiberglass turned out to be not really very water proof. Over years
continual exposure to water results in the transoms, stringers and floors
becoming water saturated. This predicament was made worse when laws passed
requiring boats under 25' to float even when filled with water. The
solution to that was to inject expanding foam under the floors. The foam
further traps the water against the floor and stringers worsening the
situation. If you drill into many older fiberglass boats you'll find most
of the wood is completely wet. And it will not dry out.

Today a number of companies have eliminated wood entirely from their
fiberglass boats.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 21:59:48 -0700, Garth Almgren
wrote:

Around 8/2/2005 6:00 PM, Gene Kearns wrote:

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!

Well, they're not *that* old...


Really, no.... when I see quite a few 2-3 times that old... in daily
service.... and they are wooden!

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide




We are headed out later today for an early evening cruise tonight on our
friend's 1966 26 foot Lyman (wood). A wood boat almost 40 years
old.........I shall fear for my life (while having a fun time on it).
;-)



  #19   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
. net...
40 is not old for a wood boat. But 15 is old for a wood encapsulated
fiberglass boat.

I think if you do some research on fiberglass boats you'll learn that
fiberglass turned out to be not really very water proof. Over years
continual exposure to water results in the transoms, stringers and floors
becoming water saturated. This predicament was made worse when laws
passed requiring boats under 25' to float even when filled with water.
The solution to that was to inject expanding foam under the floors. The
foam further traps the water against the floor and stringers worsening the
situation. If you drill into many older fiberglass boats you'll find most
of the wood is completely wet. And it will not dry out.

Today a number of companies have eliminated wood entirely from their
fiberglass boats.


Jamesgang...I know about fiberglass boats and do not need a lecture from you
about them. I am, however, glad to see you are an *expert* on fiberglass
and wood boat construction......I may defer to you later asking for your
expert opinion. ;-)

Just so you know, my friend with the 1966 Lyman (we were on it just tonight)
has spent over $30,000 in structural and top side repairs on his wood boat
over the past 4 years, a price far exceeding what the boat is actually
worth. Some folks, however, just love their boats and do not consider the
cost of repairs. He admitted so tonight. Yet this is a boat built for Lake
Erie and known for it's quality construction and ability to take on the
rough Lake Erie seas. The funny thing is that he always had to follow me in
my fiberglass boat when the lake got rough and we had to high tail it back
home, including an especially bad Lake during a passage from Leaminton,
Canada to Huron, OH. Imagine that. ;-)

I do not know whether or not this boat we are considering has wood
encapsulate stringers. If you can provide some information to that effect
it would be greatly appreciated. Regardless, if we consider buying this
boat after our one week *trial and water test* we will certainly have it
surveyed by one of the best surveyors in our area, and have a compression
test done on the engine.

If you can supply other specifics on the boat's construction and quality it
would really be appreciated.


  #20   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k
estimate is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound
like you're getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist.
The construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly
make for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on
the motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5
years or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers
closely. It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?





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