Doug Kanter wrote:
"Sunny" wrote in message
.. .

I just spent my summer vacation working my butt off building a new dock
at my Muskoka cottage - the old one only lasted 18 years because I used
pine logs and 2 x 6 spruce, but I expect this one to be around a bit
longer due to the 8 x 12 Douglas Fir beams I lugged into place and the
small fortune spent on cedar decking.

We can't use it to moor the boats yet because I haven't found cleats or
mooring rings which meet my requirements at local suppliers. I want
something sturdy enough to withstand wave action (it's a small
freshwater lake, but being on a channel we are subjected to some pretty
inconsiderate wakes), preferably recessed so the kids don't stub their
toes while playing running and diving games, yet still usable in the
late fall when there is often snow and ice on the dock (ice sticks to
galvanised hardware like glue), and, last but not least, rustproof.

The old dock had zinc-plated rings attached with lag-screw eyes. They
held the boats fine (until wood rot set in and they started to pull
out), but the kids were constantly bashing their toes on them and they
rusted. A neighbour has recessed rings which are kid feet-friendly, and
not too bad in fall provided you carry a large screwdriver to prise the
rings up when they are frozen into the recesses, but they are also rusty
- and I'm pretty sure they are actually trapdoor pulls from Home Depot
and were not designed for mooring stresses (Hint: they came with 3/4"
mounting screws).

I've seen some anodised aluminium folding cleats, but they were not
cheap, only available in white (I'd prefer stainless steel), and looked
like they'd be unusable when frozen.

Anyone know where I can obtain recessed stainless steel rings designed
for the task? Or know of a better design given my criteria?


I always vote for cleats on docks because there are days when you're trying
to get a line around SOMETHING as you dock, but the wind is not cooperating,
nobody's there to help and you only have one hand free. Try that with a
ring. If it were me, I'd teach the kids how to look out for the cleats.
Besides, nobody's every died from a stubbed toe.

True - despite the fact their howling sounds like they have suffered a
mortal injury :-)

But, if you insist, you could recess normal cleats. I'm visualizing a way,
but first, two definitions. Rails: The boards which run the length of the
dock. Crosspieces: The other boards - running across the dock. If you
removed a crosspiece or two (whatever's necessary), attached an
appropriately shaped piece (or two) of wood to the inside of each rail, and
shortened the crosspiece(s) in that location, the cleats should sit somewhat
lower than the surrounding surface. To make the resulting notch
finger-friendly (for the person tying the lines), you'd probably want to
angle the edges of the crosspieces as you shorten them.

Thanks - I hadn't thought of that approach, and will certainly consider
it. In my case it would involve routing 'cleat recesses' in the 2x6
boards which surround the edge of the dock and mounting the cleats to
the 8x12 beams underneath. I can see that looking quite attractive - but
the recesses would accumulate ice and snow and likely become unusable in
fall.

As far as strength, don't attach cleats with wood screws. Use the thickest
bolts that'll fit the cleats properly, and back the wood with big washers,
or even a plate of metal. Most home centers sell bars of steel that aren't
so hard to cut. I just saw some at Home Depot. Be sure not to buy toy
cleats - the kind that don't fit any rope a smart person would ever use. If
a cleat won't accept 1/2" rope, it's nonsense.