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Old December 6th 17, 03:37 AM posted to rec.boats
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On Tuesday, 5 December 2017 15:48:02 UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago. Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits. I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat, although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.



Current motor is the MerCruiser 3.0 with Alpha outdrive. I wonder if those nylon prop wrenches are worth getting?

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Old December 6th 17, 04:27 AM posted to rec.boats
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Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 18:37:29 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.



Current motor is the MerCruiser 3.0 with Alpha outdrive. I wonder if those nylon prop wrenches are worth getting?


I suppose they work if the nut is not too tight. I would just go get
the right size socket and a breaker bar from a discount tool guy. or a
pawn shop, (not a bad place to pick up a few loose sockets and a
breaker bar) I have been able to hold the prop with a folded up towel.

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Old December 6th 17, 01:20 PM posted to rec.boats
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Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 16:42:24 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 20:27:42 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,

wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago.
Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the
washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there
didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits.
I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached
my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat,
although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White
Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.


Get a smart charger. Cooked a couple batteries with the old dumb charger
years ago.



===

Yes, smart chargers are a big improvement over the older ones, but
I've seen smart chargers turn dumb a couple of times. In my
experience there's really no reason to leave a charger hooked up all
the time unless the battery is on its last legs.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com


Batteries should be allowed to discharge somewhat and then be recharged. I hit mine once a month
when it's cold. Using a Battery Tender Plus, 1.25 amp.
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Old December 7th 17, 02:25 AM posted to rec.boats
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Posts: 459
Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

True North wrote:
On Tuesday, 5 December 2017 15:48:02 UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago. Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits. I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat, although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....

===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.


Current motor is the MerCruiser 3.0 with Alpha outdrive. I wonder if those nylon prop wrenches are worth getting?


For $10 how can yo go wrong?


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Old December 7th 17, 07:11 AM posted to rec.boats
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Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On Wed, 6 Dec 2017 20:25:37 -0500, Alex wrote:

Current motor is the MerCruiser 3.0 with Alpha outdrive. I wonder if those nylon prop wrenches are worth getting?


For $10 how can yo go wrong?


When it doesn't remove the nut?


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