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Old December 5th 17, 07:19 PM posted to rec.boats
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At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago. Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits. I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat, although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.

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Old December 5th 17, 08:47 PM posted to rec.boats
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On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago. Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits. I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat, although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.
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Old December 5th 17, 09:13 PM posted to rec.boats
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Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago. Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits. I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat, although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


I can't see how anyone would be offended by your post. Very personable.

I agree with Wayne about the battery charger. The battery should be allowed to run down a bit
between charges. However, I agree with you as far as bringing the battery inside. I take the one out
of the RV and keep it in the garage, hitting it with a battery tender once a month or so.

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Old December 5th 17, 09:27 PM posted to rec.boats
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Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago.
Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the
washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there
didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits.
I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached
my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat,
although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White
Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.


Get a smart charger. Cooked a couple batteries with the old dumb charger
years ago.

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Old December 5th 17, 10:22 PM posted to rec.boats
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Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

True North Wrote in message:
At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago. Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits. I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat, although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


That's it? Hmmmm.
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Old December 5th 17, 10:42 PM posted to rec.boats
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Posts: 1,693
Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 20:27:42 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago.
Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the
washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there
didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits.
I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached
my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat,
although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White
Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.


Get a smart charger. Cooked a couple batteries with the old dumb charger
years ago.



===

Yes, smart chargers are a big improvement over the older ones, but
I've seen smart chargers turn dumb a couple of times. In my
experience there's really no reason to leave a charger hooked up all
the time unless the battery is on its last legs.



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Old December 5th 17, 10:44 PM posted to rec.boats
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Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 16:22:25 -0500 (EST), justan wrote:

True North Wrote in message:
At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago. Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits. I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat, although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


That's it? Hmmmm.


===

Civility begets civility.

:-)

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Old December 5th 17, 11:05 PM posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,214
Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

wrote:
On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 20:27:42 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago.
Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the
washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there
didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits.
I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached
my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat,
although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White
Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.


Get a smart charger. Cooked a couple batteries with the old dumb charger
years ago.



===

Yes, smart chargers are a big improvement over the older ones, but
I've seen smart chargers turn dumb a couple of times. In my
experience there's really no reason to leave a charger hooked up all
the time unless the battery is on its last legs.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com



I would put the trolling batteries on and ignore them for a while. They
were cooked a couple times. Then I put the dumb charger on a timer and
took the start tab off. Turn it on and 12 hours later would turn off.
Not to turn on again.

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Old December 5th 17, 11:38 PM posted to rec.boats
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Posts: 1,275
Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On 12/5/2017 4:42 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 20:27:42 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,

wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago.
Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the
washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there
didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits.
I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached
my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat,
although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White
Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.


Get a smart charger. Cooked a couple batteries with the old dumb charger
years ago.



===

Yes, smart chargers are a big improvement over the older ones, but
I've seen smart chargers turn dumb a couple of times. In my
experience there's really no reason to leave a charger hooked up all
the time unless the battery is on its last legs.




I've seen them get dumb also. While in Florida I left my BWM 740 in the
garage when we left for the summer. Put a "BMW" battery
maintainer/smart charger on it as recommended. When we returned the
next fall both of the batteries were dead.

On the other hand, the old fashioned transformer type, 3 zone charger
that came with the Navigator cooked the three big (and expensive)
batteries over the first summer month while it sat in the slip in
Jupiter. I had to replace all three batteries but not before investing
in a three zone "smart" charger. A bit pricey but never had any further
problems with batteries.


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Old December 6th 17, 02:25 AM posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 29,003
Default Pan pan...boating post to follow..

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 22:05:59 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 20:27:42 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 13:43:43 -0500,
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:19:55 -0800 (PST), True North
wrote:

At the risk of offending those in here who have little or no interest in boating....
I removed my damaged propeller from the Bayliner 175BR an hour ago.
Man, that main nut was snug..even after bending back the tang on the
washer. There was a white grease product on the spline but there
didn't appear to be any grease on the threads where the big nut sits.
I was able to use a 27mm socket to remove same.
Then I removed the battery to it's place in the basement and attached
my charger to top it up. That should do it for winterizing the boat,
although I have to cut a few more lengths of line to properly secure my Navigloo cover.
I have a phone number of a guy recommended by local company 'White
Water Marine' so I may contact him to see if it's worth repairing my aluminum prop.
Ok..back to your normal schedule....


===

The going rate around here for an aluminum prop repair is about $50 to
$60 assuming all of the blades are basically intact. You might
consider buying a new one and keeping the repaired old one as a spare.

With regard to the battery, I'd disconnect it from the charger once it
has fully recharged. After that it should go most of the winter with
little or no attention until spring. You really don't even need to
bring it inside as long as you disconnect all of the cables and fully
recharge it.

I suppose you could put the charger on a timer and have it come on for
15 or 20 minutes a week at the lowest charge rate. These days there
are 7 day electronic timers that would do a great job for that.
I usually think of aluminum props as being expendable but I suppose
that depends on what you pay for a new one vs the repair.
I have not run one for decades.
I think the spec on the Merc prop nut is 75 ft/pounds but I can look
it up if you want. I still have the 60 shop manual.


Get a smart charger. Cooked a couple batteries with the old dumb charger
years ago.



===

Yes, smart chargers are a big improvement over the older ones, but
I've seen smart chargers turn dumb a couple of times. In my
experience there's really no reason to leave a charger hooked up all
the time unless the battery is on its last legs.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com



I would put the trolling batteries on and ignore them for a while. They
were cooked a couple times. Then I put the dumb charger on a timer and
took the start tab off. Turn it on and 12 hours later would turn off.
Not to turn on again.


I have an old radio shack timer that is great for that. It runs on a
9v battery and is fully programmable for 7 days. I just set it up to
run a little while once a week to keep up a battery on a dumb charger.
I kept a trolling motor battery around here for years and seldom used
it. Once it finally died I did not replace it.


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