True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.


Imagine how bad it would be if you used it more? I hope you spray the
whole boat with fresh eater after each run. I take my aluminum boat
into into the sal****er for bay fishing and I hose it down completely.
It does have anodes and is rated for sal****er use.

On 5/18/2014 12:12 AM, Earl wrote:
True North wrote:
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent
of the time in salt or brackish water.
I don't expect that to change much.
I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar
fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources.
That makes buying a Blackberry Playbook a minor ****up, eh?

Donnie's cheap. IF he's lucky enough to get the screws out, and he
insists on replacing the snaps, he should use galvanized screws. They're
cheap too. ;-)

On 5/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:06:53 -0400, Earl wrote:

wrote:

Stainless is better but still not totally immune.
If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316
stainless parts.
Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with each
other:

http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm

Stainless looks a lot worse on that chart than reality.
My boat is bolded together with stainless fasteners, it gets dunked in
warm salt water about 100 days a year for the last 40 years and I am
not really seeing that much trouble.

Could be that your boat isn't made of cheap aluminum designed for fresh
water use only.

On 5/18/14, 12:30 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 07:32:01 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d
wrote:

On 5/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:06:53 -0400, Earl wrote:

wrote:

Stainless is better but still not totally immune.
If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316
stainless parts.
Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with each
other:

http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm

Stainless looks a lot worse on that chart than reality.
My boat is bolded together with stainless fasteners, it gets dunked in
warm salt water about 100 days a year for the last 40 years and I am
not really seeing that much trouble.

Could be that your boat isn't made of cheap aluminum designed for fresh
water use only.

I still wonder if those "stainless" snaps are not actually chrome over
brass. Stainless corrosion on aluminum would be a white powder.

Again, look into "TefGel" that is what the bimini top installers use
when they put stainless screws on aluminum pontoon boat rails.
It creates that barrier you need.
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor



I see FlaJim is still the same insulting asshole he's always been. Must
be tough stuck in the 7th grade as long as he's been there.

On 5/18/2014 12:24 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:23:09 -0400, Earl wrote:

True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.


Imagine how bad it would be if you used it more? I hope you spray the
whole boat with fresh eater after each run. I take my aluminum boat
into into the sal****er for bay fishing and I hose it down completely.
It does have anodes and is rated for sal****er use.

The only way my boat ever gets rinsed in fresh water is if it rains.
The idea that aluminum boats are not suitable for salt water is
ludicrous


Tell that to Donnie's boatbuilder.

On 5/18/2014 12:51 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 5/18/14, 12:30 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 07:32:01 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d
wrote:

On 5/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:06:53 -0400, Earl wrote:

wrote:

Stainless is better but still not totally immune.
If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316
stainless parts.
Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with
each
other:

http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm

Stainless looks a lot worse on that chart than reality.
My boat is bolded together with stainless fasteners, it gets dunked in
warm salt water about 100 days a year for the last 40 years and I am
not really seeing that much trouble.

Could be that your boat isn't made of cheap aluminum designed for fresh
water use only.

I still wonder if those "stainless" snaps are not actually chrome over
brass. Stainless corrosion on aluminum would be a white powder.

Again, look into "TefGel" that is what the bimini top installers use
when they put stainless screws on aluminum pontoon boat rails.
It creates that barrier you need.
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor



I see FlaJim is still the same insulting asshole he's always been. Must
be tough stuck in the 7th grade as long as he's been there.

Pot kettle black, sweetcheeks.

On Sun, 18 May 2014 13:21:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d
wrote:

On 5/18/2014 12:24 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:23:09 -0400, Earl wrote:

True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.


Imagine how bad it would be if you used it more? I hope you spray the
whole boat with fresh eater after each run. I take my aluminum boat
into into the sal****er for bay fishing and I hose it down completely.
It does have anodes and is rated for sal****er use.

The only way my boat ever gets rinsed in fresh water is if it rains.
The idea that aluminum boats are not suitable for salt water is
ludicrous


Tell that to Donnie's boatbuilder.

===

Don's boatbuilder is trying to weasel out of a warranty claim.

On Sunday, May 18, 2014 12:51:13 PM UTC-4, F*O*A*D wrote:

I see FlaJim is still the same insulting asshole he's always been. Must

be tough stuck in the 7th grade as long as he's been there.

Just like YOU...huh ****?

On 5/17/14, 8:02 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:16:52 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote:

Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.

===

The bilge should be OK as long as the builder didn't use any SS
fasteners, and that would be very unusual. If you keep it clean and
dry, and do not let copper of any kind get in the bilge, it should be
fine. The skipper of one of the aluminum boats that I used to race
on was absolutely fanatical about that. He made everyone dump the
change out of their pockets before coming aboard to prevent the chance
of someone accidently dropping a copper penny.

a little anal, but my only corrosion hole in the bottom, was because a
piece of copper wire got lodged in the junk in the bottom of the anchor
locker. When we welded up the hole, I made bigger limber holes to allow
less dirt collection at the cross braces. And my boat is a lot sturdier
boat than Don's. 3/16 aluminum and is 5061, which is an aluminum that
handles salt water well.

On 5/18/14, 9:24 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:23:09 -0400, Earl wrote:

True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver.
Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads.
Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there.
I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off.


Imagine how bad it would be if you used it more? I hope you spray the
whole boat with fresh eater after each run. I take my aluminum boat
into into the sal****er for bay fishing and I hose it down completely.
It does have anodes and is rated for sal****er use.

The only way my boat ever gets rinsed in fresh water is if it rains.
The idea that aluminum boats are not suitable for salt water is
ludicrous

Some aluminum boats are better than others. Depends a lot on the
aluminum alloy.