On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:



But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.


Perhaps a diuretic would help.

On Monday, 24 February 2014 15:43:54 UTC-4, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:







But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.





Perhaps a diuretic would help.


~~ Snerk ~~

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:43:54 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote:

On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:



But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.


Perhaps a diuretic would help.

Help what?

I see you got Don sucking snot!

On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:

On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote:

On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote:
...in my house is this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI

I despise plumbing.


They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at
"shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for
places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to...

Most of the plumbing down here is plastic.
Florida water eats metal



I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types
of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for
consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally
anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not.

Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been
used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The
USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first
implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based
bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats
but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns.


Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not
changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure!

May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced.
Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours.

Yippee.

They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over
the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one
off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to
replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the
handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any
hardware/home store.
.

They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the
pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can
always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work.

But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.


It will let go at about 2am while you're sleeping and have several
hours to flood everything before you wake up and realize your feet are
wet. :-)

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 15:01:52 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:

On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:

On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote:

On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote:
...in my house is this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI

I despise plumbing.


They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at
"shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for
places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to...

Most of the plumbing down here is plastic.
Florida water eats metal



I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types
of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for
consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally
anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not.

Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been
used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The
USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first
implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based
bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats
but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns.


Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not
changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure!

May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced.
Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours.

Yippee.

They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over
the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one
off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to
replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the
handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any
hardware/home store.
.

They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the
pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can
always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work.

But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.


It will let go at about 2am while you're sleeping and have several
hours to flood everything before you wake up and realize your feet are
wet. :-)


Please, no.

I've still got a gallon container under it, just in case. I'll give it 48 hours. If no leak, I'll
remove the container. Wife will be happy again.

On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:

On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote:

On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote:
...in my house is this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI

I despise plumbing.


They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at
"shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for
places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to...

Most of the plumbing down here is plastic.
Florida water eats metal



I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types
of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for
consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally
anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not.

Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been
used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The
USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first
implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based
bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats
but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns.


Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not
changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure!

May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced.
Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours.

Yippee.

They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over
the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one
off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to
replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the
handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any
hardware/home store.
.

They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the
pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can
always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work.

But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.


Well, let me know in 40 years...

On 2/24/2014 3:01 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 2/24/2014 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote:

On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote:
...in my house is this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI

I despise plumbing.


They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a
look at
"shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for
places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to...

Most of the plumbing down here is plastic.
Florida water eats metal



I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other
types
of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for
consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally
anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not.

Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has
been
used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls.
The
USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first
implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper
based
bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats
but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns.


Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore
copper will be used. I'm not
changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure!

May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways
and noticed the leak reduced.
Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than
12 hours.

Yippee.

They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over
the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one
off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to
replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the
handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any
hardware/home store.
.

They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I
wouldn't have to cut the
pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't
work very well, but I can
always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work.

But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.


It will let go at about 2am while you're sleeping and have several
hours to flood everything before you wake up and realize your feet are
wet. :-)



Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do
a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on
my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a
gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes
in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of
those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be
****ed right now...

On 2/24/14, 2:55 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:43:54 -0500, F*O*A*D wrote:

On 2/24/14, 2:29 PM, Poco Loco wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:



But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.


Perhaps a diuretic would help.

Help what?

I see you got Don sucking snot!


Your inability to take a leak...

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote:

I am starting to prefer the teflon paste.

===

Yes. I just finished a fairly complex plumbing job on the boat (new
distribution manifold for 4 zones of A/C cooling water). It has more
than 15 individual pipe joints and is driven by a 1 hp pool pump so
there is lots of pressure and lots of opportunity for leaks. Knock
on wood, everything worked fine with no leaks first time it was
powered up. I've always used teflon tape previously but I've had my
share of failed joints with that.

On 2/24/14, 5:00 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:18:14 -0500, KC wrote:


Averted a disaster the other night... Went down stairs about 10 pm to do
a load of laundry and noticed a seal had blown on the pressure guage on
my water system in the basement and was pouring what must have been a
gallon every couple minutes.. I must have found it less than ten minutes
in and capped it off before my basement flooded.. it was just one of
those things. If I had not done laundry that night, my house would be
****ed right now...


I have been fighting a new Hayward filter for my spa. This thing seems
to have some oversized 1.5" NPT hubs on it and you can't get a regular
male adapter to seal.
I have cut the plumbing open and replaced it about 5 times so far.
Last time I went with schedule 80 pipe nipples with 1/4" cut off the
end that I could run in a little farther than a regular fitting with
a shoulder on it and that seems to be working.



You could always hire a competent plumber, but, of course, you prefer
tinkering.