All,

I'm new to kayaking and would like to know if the setup below will work just
fine? I have a factory rack installed. or would you still go for the Thule
setup?

http://www.prolineracks.com/riversid...k-carrier.html

Thanks

Chris

That system will work. Personally, I knew I was going to be using my kayaks a
lot and for several years so the cost/mile of the racks is fairly low event
though they are quite expensive to purchase.

I like the additional security of knowing my kayak is not going anywhere.

Yes, I use bow and stern lines on trips over about 10 miles or highway speeds.

Brian

"Chris" wrote in message ...
All,

I'm new to kayaking and would like to know if the setup below will work just
fine? I have a factory rack installed. or would you still go for the Thule
setup?

http://www.prolineracks.com/riversid...k-carrier.html

while I've never used one, I've seen people that have and they seemed
to like them. One of the nice features is that you can "compress" the
foam for a tighter fit, making the boat more secure. It give it more for
the boat to "bite into" and hold firmer. Remember that you'll easily
be driving 80mph on the interstate perhaps with it. A boat that comes
loose will become a "ballastic missile" for the cars behind you.

Just make sure to get the straps tight and check them at every stop.
Some nylon straps will stretch, especially if they get wet a little with
rain. Of course these foam blocks might scratch or rub your paint
a little.

A Thule or YAKIMA (my preference) of course is better. But it costs more.
But is is much more secure. I can grab my yakima rack and shake my entire
car with it. It NEVER loosens up. I am 100% happy with it. They
just aren't cheap is the problem. Another benifit to a "real" rack
is that you can lock your kayak to it to deter other people from
"borrowing" it in the middle of the night, etc. Most kayaks have
a "security loop" now days to to lock it, or you can easily buy one
for pretty cheap to add on.

Invest in good straps to put your rack on it also. My preference is
the blue "NRS" straps from Northwest River Supplies. they are a few
bucks apiece and do not strech or give even an 1/8", even after getting
wet and being driven at 80+ mph down the interstate with a kayak on top.
You can get them in all kinds of different sizes. Get larger than you
think you'll need. I use a 15' to put kayaks on my car. You can always
cut them shorter if you need to. These straps are so strong that I
don't even need bow/stern straps to my bumpers. I get no "wobbles" or
anything. You can order them online at NRS website at
http://www.nrsweb.com

FYI, yakima also sells a padded wrap around for their racks to help
give a compression point for your boat to dig/seat into. I've never
used them as it fits on my rack just fine the way it is.

hope this helps. email if you need more help.

-mike


Thanks

Chris

I have a basic Thule rack on my PT Cruiser-- just the bars and feet, with no
special kayak carriers. We carry two Pungoes in it, cockpit down and secured
with nylon straps. I've had it up over 80mph in a crosswind with no shifting or
moving of the kayaks. Just be VERY sure that the boat(s) is cinched down
tightly. Grab the bow and stern of the kayak and try to move it sideways-- it
shouldn't move. Bow and stern lines are recommended, but I have not found the
need. We also have cable locks to lock the yaks to the rack for overnight
safety.

******************************
Got wood?
Check out my exotic hardwood pennywhistles at fair
prices...http://www.Busmanwhistles.com

"Chris" wrote in
:

All,

I'm new to kayaking and would like to know if the setup below will work
just fine? I have a factory rack installed. or would you still go for
the Thule setup?

http://www.prolineracks.com/riversid...k-carrier.html

The primary advantage of using the foam blocks is that they're inexpensive.
They work fine for the occasional trip, even a long trip. I carried a
fiberglass sea kayak on foam blocks from upstate NY to the Outer Banks and
back using foam blocks. However, to get the kayak secure it requires a
little more time and effort than it does with a yakima or thule rack. If
you're going to be paddling a lot, it pays in the long run to have a rack
system that is always on the vehicle. With the foam blocks you've got to
install the foam blocks first (not always real easy even though they claim
to have a universal fit) then put on the kayak. Depending on where you
launch you might even want to remove the blocks while you're out paddling.

Someone else mentioned bow and stern lines. With foam blocks, bow and stern
lines are pretty much mandatory no matter how short your trip. With a
thule/yakima system you can get by with just a bow line in most cases. I
prefer to use rope for bow/stern lines rather than straps. The bow/stern
lines should not be too tight. They're there to prevent the boat from coming
off the vehicle should the rack to boat (or rack to vehicle) system fail.
Rope bow/stern lines are much quieter than using straps.

in article , John Fereira at
wrote on 5/27/04 7:57 AM:

"Chris" wrote in
:

All,

I'm new to kayaking and would like to know if the setup below will work
just fine? I have a factory rack installed. or would you still go for
the Thule setup?

http://www.prolineracks.com/riversid...k-carrier.html

The primary advantage of using the foam blocks is that they're inexpensive.
They work fine for the occasional trip, even a long trip. I carried a
fiberglass sea kayak on foam blocks from upstate NY to the Outer Banks and
back using foam blocks. However, to get the kayak secure it requires a
little more time and effort than it does with a yakima or thule rack. If
you're going to be paddling a lot, it pays in the long run to have a rack
system that is always on the vehicle. With the foam blocks you've got to
install the foam blocks first (not always real easy even though they claim
to have a universal fit) then put on the kayak. Depending on where you
launch you might even want to remove the blocks while you're out paddling.


I have only used foam blocks. The main reason that I don't want to have a
kayak support system installed to my rack is that I use the rack for many
other things, mostly construction material, plywood sheet, plastic sheet
etc.

To improve the foam block stability and security, using a band saw, I cut
the foam blocks to exactly match the contour of my hull where they make
contact. In addition, I cut a temporary bulkead out of styrene insulation
foam which I place just in front of the foot pegs in the cockpit (located
over the roof rack). The combination of contour cutting the foam blocks and
the temporary bulkhead allows me to really sinch that kayak down tight
without overly stressing or deforming the hull or deck. (hint: if you make a
temporary bulkhead, put about a 4" diameter hole right in the middle of it
so you can grab it to maneuver into and out of the kayak)

I installed nylon webbing loops under the hood for bow line attachment
rather than going all the way around the bumper to the underside of the car.
This shortens the bow line by about 3 feet keeping it tighter and prevents
the bow line from vibrating and rubbing on the paint.

Never had a problem on long trips at highway speed.

And I do remove the blocks while the car is parked while I'm paddling. Mine
pop on and off quite easily. I'm sure any foam block could be modified with
a sharp knife to be easier to pop on and off of one's rack.

Cheers!

DV

On 27-May-2004, Dave Van wrote:

I have only used foam blocks. The main reason that I don't want to have a
kayak support system installed to my rack is that I use the rack for many
other things, mostly construction material, plywood sheet, plastic sheet
etc.

OTOH, kayak saddles aren't _that_ hard to remove or install.

Mike

"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...
On 27-May-2004, Dave Van wrote:

I have only used foam blocks. The main reason that I don't want to have
a
kayak support system installed to my rack is that I use the rack for
many
other things, mostly construction material, plywood sheet, plastic sheet
etc.

OTOH, kayak saddles aren't _that_ hard to remove or install.

No. Not hard to do. But time consuming enough for most people not to worry
about them getting stolen off their racks, which says something about the
effort it takes.. For me, personally, it would be too much, too often. I
make material runs very frequently and kayak just as often in the summer
months so it could turn into a nearly daily exercise if I were to be moving
saddles onto and off of my racks.

My main point, (albeit a bit clouded) was that with a little careful initial
set up, foam blocks work great. And you really can't beat the price.

Cheers!

DV