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On 05/10/2011 11:22 PM, JustWait wrote:
On 10/5/2011 5:14 PM, Canuck57 wrote: On 04/10/2011 11:05 PM, JustWait wrote: On 10/4/2011 10:45 PM, Canuck57 wrote: On 04/10/2011 1:59 PM, X ` Man wrote: I'm thinking of upgrading to a larger standby generator, probably a 17KW model. The generator will be approximately 50 to 60 feet away from the house circuit breakers. The wire will run under the main level floor and above the lower level ceiling. I want as little current drop as possible. The generator provides 100 amps. One of the contractors under consideration wants to use aluminum wire, but I am more than willing to pay the premium between aluminum and copper. I don't have an electrical "handibook" available. What I am wondering: 1. Is 4/0 copper wire heavy enough? 2. Anyone know a supplier for about 70 feet of the stuff? Our local electrical suppliers don't seem to want to provide a length that short. Thanks. P.S. I'm really only interested in replies from those with an educational or professional electrical background. So is this for your grow op so the police don't see your utility bill? In any case, for 1), current heats wire not voltage or wattage, so what is the voltage as to calculate the current 17KW can generate? Amps generate the heat. 220 or 115? With that size I will assume 220. 17K/220 = 77.3 amps. And I like being cautious, say AWG 3 for 220, 3/0 for 120. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge Probably industrial supply shops, as consumer hardware stores will not carry this. As it gets worse. You need special tools to bend it, you may need conduit and I strongly suspect local ordinance would require an inspection or at least a licensed electrician. Tonight I had to install a new shallow well system for a friend in Essex. Pretty straight forward, pump, expansion tank, and new conduit tube from the knife switch above on the floor joist, down to the cutoff switch... to code. We noticed the breaker supplied an outside light and an outlet too, so we had to put in an new breaker and 12 ga, Romex to supply the pump on a separate line, also required by code. Electrical and plumbing is not really all that hard, about 20 years ago I with some help changed my home over from knob and tube to modern day romex, gpf switches, etc.. ![]() our place, including a new section of baseboard heating in one room. For the water side of the system I used Pex pipe and Sharkbite fittings up to the floors under the appliance or sink, and went with hard copper from the floor up... I actually enjoy doing that stuff, But I guess my bud could have waited for someone with "educational or professional electrical background" and spent $700 for a $300 (parts) job we could easily do ourselves. snerk. I agree normal wiring isn't that hard. However 4GA isn't normal wiring neither is 70+ Amps and futzing with the mains. Have that short out and your face could be copper or aluminum coated. And if it burns his home, and no inspection, it isn't covered. It isn't a wall socket or light switch job. It also needs to be inspected even if you do it yourself. For example if it supplies the house, he needs a switch panel between the fuse box and the incoming mains. Which also means coordinating having the power off to insert an approved switch. Yeah, I have worked with bigger stuff too. We did the shop with 440 a while back, all conduit, feeding about a dozen machines... But of course after you have licensed electrial come in and inspect, and throw the switch the first time ![]() still just plumbing with wire ![]() Not really. Not as important with smaller wires, but with larger wire sizes even the bend radius matters. If the bend is too sharp the insulation might split, stretch to deform for later problems. -- Eat the rich, screw the companies and wonder why there are no jobs. -- Obama and the lefty fleabagger attitude |
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