Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:25:27 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John H
wrote:

Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!

Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

My neighbor got a quote of over $700 for the high pressure fuel pump
for his Merc 115, with the promise that this was a deal, it listed for
over a grand. I-Boats has it for under $200. I can only believe they
were selling him the whole vapor separator assembly or something.
The last I heard the same "stealer" was going to allow him to extend
his extended warranty (that expired a few weeks ago) and they would
fix it for "free".

No, my torque wrench has both units on it. I'm used to using it for head bolts. The 'click' I'm used
to is easy to hear and feel. At 8 n-m, the 'click' barely registers and I passed it completely.
Later, using a vise, I played around with it and realized my mistake. I almost took the damn thing
back to Sears, but it wasn't the wrench. It was the wrencher.

On May 30, 10:25*am, wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John H
wrote:









Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!

Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

Problem is, Greg. The solenoid is an integral part of the starter
motor. It can be purchased separately, but the dealer wants 300.00 $
for one and actually it's a variant of what is on an old Datsun 280Z
starter.

The cap is broken on John's and the solonoid is a sealed unit, so.....

A solonoid is darn cheap but the trick is installing it. it's not
just a bolt-on operation, and if you hold your tongue just right you
might make it on the first try. after the third though, you figure you
have to disassemble the entire unit... Not a fun case in John's
situation.

Anyhow, Tuesday, I'll call it in and by Fri, (or sooner) John should
be up and running.

On Mon, 30 May 2011 09:07:45 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:

On May 30, 10:25*am, wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John H
wrote:









Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!

Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

Problem is, Greg. The solenoid is an integral part of the starter
motor. It can be purchased separately, but the dealer wants 300.00 $
for one and actually it's a variant of what is on an old Datsun 280Z
starter.

The cap is broken on John's and the solonoid is a sealed unit, so.....

A solonoid is darn cheap but the trick is installing it. it's not
just a bolt-on operation, and if you hold your tongue just right you
might make it on the first try. after the third though, you figure you
have to disassemble the entire unit... Not a fun case in John's
situation.

Anyhow, Tuesday, I'll call it in and by Fri, (or sooner) John should
be up and running.

Yippee, yippee, yippee!

Reminds me of a great song!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2cFji4CmHE

On Mon, 30 May 2011 21:03:38 -0400, Gene
wrote:

It is good that we have knowledgeable, honest, stand-up guys like Tim
here.....

I'll second that.

You don't need a torque wrench to do damage. I was re-wiring a
surface mount circuit breaker that cost about $60 earlier this year.
Using my brand new cordless drill/driver I turned it into about 10
worthless pieces of broken plastic in about a millisecond. They just
don't make this stuff like they used to... :-)

On 5/30/2011 9:03 PM, Gene wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:31:58 -0400, John
wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:25:27 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John
wrote:

Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!
Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

My neighbor got a quote of over $700 for the high pressure fuel pump
for his Merc 115, with the promise that this was a deal, it listed for
over a grand. I-Boats has it for under $200. I can only believe they
were selling him the whole vapor separator assembly or something.
The last I heard the same "stealer" was going to allow him to extend
his extended warranty (that expired a few weeks ago) and they would
fix it for "free".
No, my torque wrench has both units on it. I'm used to using it for head bolts. The 'click' I'm used
to is easy to hear and feel. At 8 n-m, the 'click' barely registers and I passed it completely.
Later, using a vise, I played around with it and realized my mistake. I almost took the damn thing
back to Sears, but it wasn't the wrench. It was the wrencher.
Lesson... do NOT trust a Craftsman Torque Wrench. They aren't worth
the powder to blow them to hell.... and we've probably been through a
dozen of them.....

Finally broke down and bought Snap-On digital wrenches..... problem
solved. 8 N-m is just short of 6 ft-lbs or 72 in-lbs...... trust me,
you don't have a wrench that will go that low...

you need a torque "screwdriver" to go that low....

Lesson 2.... a wrench will not accurately measure everything on the
"dial."

It is good that we have knowledgeable, honest, stand-up guys like Tim
here.....





There used to be more like him but your buddy Harry drove them off.

On Mon, 30 May 2011 21:03:38 -0400, Gene wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:31:58 -0400, John H
wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:25:27 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John H
wrote:

Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!

Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

My neighbor got a quote of over $700 for the high pressure fuel pump
for his Merc 115, with the promise that this was a deal, it listed for
over a grand. I-Boats has it for under $200. I can only believe they
were selling him the whole vapor separator assembly or something.
The last I heard the same "stealer" was going to allow him to extend
his extended warranty (that expired a few weeks ago) and they would
fix it for "free".

No, my torque wrench has both units on it. I'm used to using it for head bolts. The 'click' I'm used
to is easy to hear and feel. At 8 n-m, the 'click' barely registers and I passed it completely.
Later, using a vise, I played around with it and realized my mistake. I almost took the damn thing
back to Sears, but it wasn't the wrench. It was the wrencher.

Lesson... do NOT trust a Craftsman Torque Wrench. They aren't worth
the powder to blow them to hell.... and we've probably been through a
dozen of them.....

Finally broke down and bought Snap-On digital wrenches..... problem
solved. 8 N-m is just short of 6 ft-lbs or 72 in-lbs...... trust me,
you don't have a wrench that will go that low...

you need a torque "screwdriver" to go that low....

Lesson 2.... a wrench will not accurately measure everything on the
"dial."

It is good that we have knowledgeable, honest, stand-up guys like Tim
here.....

Well, now I know better. I've never noticed a problem with it before, but I've never used it for
anything that 'light' before either.

On 5/31/2011 8:36 AM, John H wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 21:03:38 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:31:58 -0400, John
wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:25:27 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John
wrote:

Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!
Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

My neighbor got a quote of over $700 for the high pressure fuel pump
for his Merc 115, with the promise that this was a deal, it listed for
over a grand. I-Boats has it for under $200. I can only believe they
were selling him the whole vapor separator assembly or something.
The last I heard the same "stealer" was going to allow him to extend
his extended warranty (that expired a few weeks ago) and they would
fix it for "free".
No, my torque wrench has both units on it. I'm used to using it for head bolts. The 'click' I'm used
to is easy to hear and feel. At 8 n-m, the 'click' barely registers and I passed it completely.
Later, using a vise, I played around with it and realized my mistake. I almost took the damn thing
back to Sears, but it wasn't the wrench. It was the wrencher.
Lesson... do NOT trust a Craftsman Torque Wrench. They aren't worth
the powder to blow them to hell.... and we've probably been through a
dozen of them.....

Finally broke down and bought Snap-On digital wrenches..... problem
solved. 8 N-m is just short of 6 ft-lbs or 72 in-lbs...... trust me,
you don't have a wrench that will go that low...

you need a torque "screwdriver" to go that low....

Lesson 2.... a wrench will not accurately measure everything on the
"dial."

It is good that we have knowledgeable, honest, stand-up guys like Tim
here.....
Well, now I know better. I've never noticed a problem with it before, but I've never used it for
anything that 'light' before either.
Use a nut driver instead, on light stuff and resist the urge to give it
one last twist.

On 5/31/11 3:38 PM, Gene wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 22:14:07 -0400, Florida
wrote:

On 5/30/2011 9:03 PM, Gene wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:31:58 -0400, John
wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:25:27 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John
wrote:

Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!
Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

My neighbor got a quote of over $700 for the high pressure fuel pump
for his Merc 115, with the promise that this was a deal, it listed for
over a grand. I-Boats has it for under $200. I can only believe they
were selling him the whole vapor separator assembly or something.
The last I heard the same "stealer" was going to allow him to extend
his extended warranty (that expired a few weeks ago) and they would
fix it for "free".
No, my torque wrench has both units on it. I'm used to using it for head bolts. The 'click' I'm used
to is easy to hear and feel. At 8 n-m, the 'click' barely registers and I passed it completely.
Later, using a vise, I played around with it and realized my mistake. I almost took the damn thing
back to Sears, but it wasn't the wrench. It was the wrencher.
Lesson... do NOT trust a Craftsman Torque Wrench. They aren't worth
the powder to blow them to hell.... and we've probably been through a
dozen of them.....

Finally broke down and bought Snap-On digital wrenches..... problem
solved. 8 N-m is just short of 6 ft-lbs or 72 in-lbs...... trust me,
you don't have a wrench that will go that low...

you need a torque "screwdriver" to go that low....

Lesson 2.... a wrench will not accurately measure everything on the
"dial."

It is good that we have knowledgeable, honest, stand-up guys like Tim
here.....





There used to be more like him but your buddy Harry drove them off.

Well, "buddy," if you and you "buddies" were smart enough not to egg
him on, that wouldn't have happened, huh? If you want somebody to
blame, go look in a mirror.... or better yet, just keep doing what you
are doing....



A. You're replying to an ID spoofer, Gene.

B. I was and am still friendly with the two professional outboard
mechanics who used to post here, and there never was any rancor between
us on any subject. The other guy I recall, the guy who fixed up dead
Mercuries, was also an affable fellow.

Your "advice" to the ID spoofer is right-on.

Have a nice day, and come by the new site for a visit and to post.





--
Want to discuss recreational boating and fishing in a forum where
personal insults are not allowed?

http://groups.google.com/group/rec-boating-fishing

In article ,
says...

On 5/31/11 3:38 PM, Gene wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 22:14:07 -0400, Florida
wrote:

On 5/30/2011 9:03 PM, Gene wrote:
On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:31:58 -0400, John
wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:25:27 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 May 2011 11:03:00 -0400, John
wrote:

Given all the troubles I've had with getting the boat started, which have been due to loose grounds,
leaving switches on, etc, I decided to bring the boat home and check it out before the outing
planned for yesterday and today.

Great intentions. I tightened the ground on the engine, and then went to check the hot wire to the
solenoid. Well, lucky me, there was a sticker right there showing the torque for the nut on the
solenoid! So I got out my trusty Craftsman torque wrench, which I've used only on my motorcycle, set
it for 8 n-m, and proceeded to tighten the nut.

I couldn't believe how loose it was. After two turns of about 60 degrees with the wrench, I'd still
not felt the 'click' indicating the proper torque had been achieved. I was surprised at how tight
that damn nut was supposed to be. But, I started to give it another turn when 'POP', the Bakelite
plastic housing broke off. (Yes, I used a whole lot of foul language!)

So, I called my local Yamaha guy, who gave me an 'Oh ****, that's expensive.' He then told me he
couldn't get parts from Yamaha because he'd not sold any new engines lately. He carried Triumph
brand boats, and as they went bankrupt last year, he's not gotten any to sell. Upon checking, I
found they've been bought and will be produced in Minnesota instead of NC.

So, I called TriState Marine, the big Parker and Grady White dealer up in Deale, MD. They didn't
have the parts, but could order them. For just the solenoid, the wanted about $570, For the complete
starter assembly, the price was about $700. I almost cried. I took the boat up so the service guy
could look at it. He recommended leaving it so they could best determine what was needed. Of course,
that would add another $95/hour labor charge. I left the boat, thinking I'd probably made a $1000
boo-boo with the torque wrench.

Then I came home and called my buddy, Tim. Tim, after hearing the story, started ROFLHAO. When I
asked why he was laughing he said he couldn't believe how badly Yamaha was ripping off people, and
that he could get the whole starter assembly (a Hitachi product) for about $85. So, based on the
advice of Tim, I went back to Deale and got my boat back.

Thanks, Tim. You're a lifesaver.

And, you'd *better* make a reasonable profit on this deal!!
Did you get foot pounds mixed up with some commie metric designation?

If this is just a solenoid I think I might get creative. I know
Mercury wanted about $35 for a solenoid for my old Mariner 75 that I
could get at the lawn tractor repair for $8. Same part.

My neighbor got a quote of over $700 for the high pressure fuel pump
for his Merc 115, with the promise that this was a deal, it listed for
over a grand. I-Boats has it for under $200. I can only believe they
were selling him the whole vapor separator assembly or something.
The last I heard the same "stealer" was going to allow him to extend
his extended warranty (that expired a few weeks ago) and they would
fix it for "free".
No, my torque wrench has both units on it. I'm used to using it for head bolts. The 'click' I'm used
to is easy to hear and feel. At 8 n-m, the 'click' barely registers and I passed it completely.
Later, using a vise, I played around with it and realized my mistake. I almost took the damn thing
back to Sears, but it wasn't the wrench. It was the wrencher.
Lesson... do NOT trust a Craftsman Torque Wrench. They aren't worth
the powder to blow them to hell.... and we've probably been through a
dozen of them.....

Finally broke down and bought Snap-On digital wrenches..... problem
solved. 8 N-m is just short of 6 ft-lbs or 72 in-lbs...... trust me,
you don't have a wrench that will go that low...

you need a torque "screwdriver" to go that low....

Lesson 2.... a wrench will not accurately measure everything on the
"dial."

It is good that we have knowledgeable, honest, stand-up guys like Tim
here.....





There used to be more like him but your buddy Harry drove them off.

Well, "buddy," if you and you "buddies" were smart enough not to egg
him on, that wouldn't have happened, huh? If you want somebody to
blame, go look in a mirror.... or better yet, just keep doing what you
are doing....



A. You're replying to an ID spoofer, Gene.

B. I was and am still friendly with the two professional outboard
mechanics who used to post here, and there never was any rancor between
us on any subject. The other guy I recall, the guy who fixed up dead
Mercuries, was also an affable fellow.

Your "advice" to the ID spoofer is right-on.

Have a nice day, and come by the new site for a visit and to post.

snerk