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On 3/7/11 1:29 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 08:03:01 -0800 (PST), Frogwatch wrote: You'd think there would be a market for good reliable trailer lights, it isn't rocket science, just heavily tin all your wire and connections and other bare metal. To an inventor and entrepreneur, every problem is an oportunity. :-) If you don't buy or build crap, and you maintain it, you aren't going to have as many problems as Frogwatch has. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats
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#4
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posted to rec.boats
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On Mar 7, 2:48*pm, Harryk wrote:
On 3/7/11 2:37 PM, wrote: On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 13:48:16 -0500, wrote: On 3/7/11 1:29 PM, Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 7 Mar 2011 08:03:01 -0800 (PST), Frogwatch * wrote: You'd think there would be a market for good reliable trailer lights, it isn't rocket science, just heavily tin all your wire and connections and other bare metal. To an inventor and entrepreneur, every problem is an oportunity. * :-) If you don't buy or build crap, and you maintain it, you aren't going to have as many problems as Frogwatch has. I don't know anyone who dunks in real salt water who does not have problems with trailer lights. I agree, in these days of LEDs that should never need replacing, there should be a totally sealed solution but it better come with 30 feet of wire because the splices cause as much trouble as the lights if they get wet. Minor troubles, like replacing bulbs once a season, checking connections, et cetera. I Gave some thought to taking the old bulb types of lights and coating the sockets and connections well with Tin but in these days of LEDs, that seems pointless. We really need to make sure the LED types are well sealed. I do have so-called waterproof wire nuts so they have never been a problem. It seems like a no-brainer to use fully tin coated wire but you simply do not see it. I think one could make a good set of lights for about $150 using real o-ring seals and the same sort of wire feedthrus as on vacuum systems. |
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