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Mr Wizzard
 
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Default Should I disconnect trailer lights on launch ?

Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)



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Woodchuck
 
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only if the lights are cheap and water gets to the bulbs. I use LED
lightning and it's not a worry.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)





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Shortwave Sportfishing
 
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On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 06:24:38 -0400, "Woodchuck"
wrote:

only if the lights are cheap and water gets to the bulbs. I use LED
lightning and it's not a worry.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)


I used to disconnect the trailer lights all the time, but when I got
sealed units, I stopped. Since then, I just dunk the trailer and not
worry about it. So far, I haven't had a bulb blow or any other kind
of failure like that on the little trailer I have.

I don't believe it's really necessary to disconnect.

TTFN,

Tom

"Bodies are for hookers and fat people."
Bender - "Futurama"
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Tim
 
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Shortwave Sportfishing wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 06:24:38 -0400, "Woodchuck"
wrote:

only if the lights are cheap and water gets to the bulbs. I use LED
lightning and it's not a worry.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)


Try it and find out....

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Bill McKee
 
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"Shortwave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 06:24:38 -0400, "Woodchuck"
wrote:

only if the lights are cheap and water gets to the bulbs. I use LED
lightning and it's not a worry.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)


I used to disconnect the trailer lights all the time, but when I got
sealed units, I stopped. Since then, I just dunk the trailer and not
worry about it. So far, I haven't had a bulb blow or any other kind
of failure like that on the little trailer I have.

I don't believe it's really necessary to disconnect.

TTFN,

Tom

"Bodies are for hookers and fat people."
Bender - "Futurama"


Depends on the type of lights. The bell jar type, suck more water as the
lights heat up hte air inside, and then the cold water cools the air,
allowing more water in. Blew to many lights over the years. My big boat
trailer is now LED (about $35 from Bass Pro shops). No more problems.




  #6   Report Post  
LD
 
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It's not a myth. I've blown several over the years and tend to disconnect
my "standard" lights on my duck boat trailer. Of course, I usually put that
in the water when the temp is 40 deg or so. You might try putting it in
without disconnecting but have spare bulbs with you, have someone check the
lights before leaving and be prepared to change the bulbs. I think buck or
so for a couple of bulbs is well worth not having to disconnect the lights
every time. If you do have a problem, you might consider a set of the LED
lights for 40-50 $. I just put a set on my 20 footer . In addition to the
bulb problem I also had the high corrosive action of salt water. If so, be
sure to fill any connectors w/silicone before crimping ot otherwise
waterproof.
LD

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)





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seeray28
 
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Default

At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.
Hey did you get my post about the gas tank?
Steve
"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)





  #8   Report Post  
Mr Wizzard
 
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"seeray28" wrote in message
...
At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.


Hey did you get my post about the gas tank?


No, I must of missed it. Link ? (or repost?)



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seeray28
 
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I figured out how to take care of the gas tank/gauge issue if your
interested. I measured the depth of the tank with a tape measure. Without
the top portion,the tank is right at 7 inches tall, I then divided 7 inches
by 4 equalling 1.75 inches. starting at the bottom of the tank measure up
1.75 inches and make a mark with a magic marker. That is a 1/4 tank. measure
again 1.75 inches from that mark now you have a 1/2 tank or 9 gallons left
in the tank. Measure again from the 1/2 mark and now you have 3/4 tank.
Measure again 1.75 and you have a full 18 gallons.
When this boat was first produced it came with a 18 gallon fuel tank. In our
boats they just added that top portion of the tank to get 21 gallons. If we
use that as a reserve of 3 gallons then we should be ok



"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"seeray28" wrote in message
...
At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.


Hey did you get my post about the gas tank?


No, I must of missed it. Link ? (or repost?)





  #10   Report Post  
Mr Wizzard
 
Posts: n/a
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"seeray28" wrote in message
...
I figured out how to take care of the gas tank/gauge issue if your
interested. I measured the depth of the tank with a tape measure. Without
the top portion,the tank is right at 7 inches tall, I then divided 7

inches
by 4 equalling 1.75 inches. starting at the bottom of the tank measure up
1.75 inches and make a mark with a magic marker. That is a 1/4 tank.

measure
again 1.75 inches from that mark now you have a 1/2 tank or 9 gallons left
in the tank. Measure again from the 1/2 mark and now you have 3/4 tank.
Measure again 1.75 and you have a full 18 gallons.
When this boat was first produced it came with a 18 gallon fuel tank. In

our
boats they just added that top portion of the tank to get 21 gallons. If

we
use that as a reserve of 3 gallons then we should be ok


Ahhhh! excelent dude !! This *also* explains the
dispute I had with the salesman at Olympic Boat
center too over this. On the showroom floor, the
big information board on the boat said 21 gallons,
but the salesman said that was a "misprint", and
he showed me his little Bayliner spec book that
said it was 18, and he said that info board on the
showroom floor was a misprint. You rock dude.

Also, I'm looking into the trim gague inaccuracy
situation too, and working on a dash light dimmer
situation. As soon as I come up with something
easy, and doable by the average Joe, I'll post it.
(might involve a trip to Radio Shack).

So how you liking the '05 175 so far? Also,
was it you that mentioned that ~31Mph seeet
spot? If so, I gotta tell you dude, I found it last
week, and it was unbelievable. Was crusing
around, and then all of a sudden everrthing
quieted down, and it was just I started floating
on air - the boat found "Zen", and it was the
smoothest thing I'd ever felt. Lasted a few
minutes, and once I touched the throttle I
lost it, and never seems to get it back. Amazing.
Also, (still at less than 20 hrs breakin), but one
time I did do WOT it it seemed to go up past
4,800 RPM, and near 5000, so that worried
me. So it doesn't top out at 4,800 naturally ?

Thanks







"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"seeray28" wrote in message
...
At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.


Hey did you get my post about the gas tank?


No, I must of missed it. Link ? (or repost?)









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