I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On Apr 13, 10:25*am, hk wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.


--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On Apr 13, 10:45*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.

On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the
stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer
together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:45:30 -0400, hk
wrote:

On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...
I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

Why not just loop it around the frame and hook it back onto itself?

Rick

On 4/13/10 11:24 AM, lid wrote:
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:45:30 -0400,
wrote:

On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...
I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

Why not just loop it around the frame and hook it back onto itself?

Rick

Also under consideration. I'll have to get over to West Marine this week
and see what's available. These might do:

http://tinyurl.com/ybzdm2c


--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On 4/13/10 11:22 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:37:10 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch
wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

That bungee that Ace and other places sell (white with blue flecks
going through it) uses a polyethylene cover and the sun will kill it
pretty quickly. The cover shreds and you are left with a bunch of
rubber bands.
Unfortunately I have been unable to find a better alternative. I know
they make it because I have some solid blue covered bungee from a
Mighty Mite luggage cart that has lasted years right next to the white
stuff. It seems to have a nylon jacket.

West Marine has some polyester covered bungees...



--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.


You can buy bungee cords with plastic or plastic coated hooks. You can
hook one end of the bungee cord on one of the lower legs of the I beam
and loop the bungee under the beam to hold it in place or you can loop
the bungee around the eye beam and hook the bungee back on to itself, or
you can buy the bungees in lengths that will loop around the I beam and
both hooks can attach to the loops, or you can use the old partially
filled milk bottle trick to maintain constant tension on the tarp and
never have to touch the trailer with lashings.
How do you deal with rain water puddleing up on your cover, or snow load?

On Apr 13, 10:45*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:



On Apr 13, 10:25 am, *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Maybe use small hooks from Ace attached with self drilling screws. If
your eyes are as bad as mine it would give you a larger target.