On 4/13/10 2:23 PM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 1:12 pm, wrote:
On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote:





On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, wrote:
On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:

I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering.

Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions."



Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are
talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the
people here, how does one remove material from a structural member
without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member?


http://tinyurl.com/y3f4gtb


--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On Apr 13, 2:28*pm, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 2:23 PM, Loogypicker wrote:





On Apr 13, 1:12 pm, *wrote:
On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote:

On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, * *wrote:
On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:

I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering.

Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions."

Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are
talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the
people here, how does one remove material from a structural member
without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member?

http://tinyurl.com/y3f4gtb

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As expected....mechanical engineering my ass. Go drill some holes in
your trailer's beams. Make them big ones. Several of them.

On 4/13/10 2:55 PM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 2:28 pm, wrote:
On 4/13/10 2:23 PM, Loogypicker wrote:





On Apr 13, 1:12 pm, wrote:
On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote:

On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, wrote:
On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:

I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering.

Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions."

Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are
talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the
people here, how does one remove material from a structural member
without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member?

http://tinyurl.com/y3f4gtb

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As expected....mechanical engineering my ass. Go drill some holes in
your trailer's beams. Make them big ones. Several of them.

You've had too many trepanations, loogy.

Woof. Snap. Snarl...the loogy bywords.


--
Conservatives - just pretend Obama's health care legislation is another
unnecessary war and you'll feel better about it.

"hk" wrote in message
...
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless
steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for
the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

My aluminum trailer is welded. No nuts and bolts holding it together. Much
nicer way to build a trailer. My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted
together. Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. Luckily the bolt
broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway.

On Apr 13, 3:59*pm, "Bill McKee" wrote:
"hk" wrote in message

...





On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, *wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:25 am, * *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.

D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless
steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for
the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.

--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

My aluminum trailer is welded. *No nuts and bolts holding it together. *Much
nicer way to build a trailer. *My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted
together. *Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. *Luckily the bolt
broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

One trouble with bolts and bolt holes in aluminum is that those
connections need to be slip-critical, meaning the two mating surfaces
to the work through compression of the bolt/nut. If you rely on the
bolt, then the softer aluminum holes get larger and larger with time.
Add to that the dissimilar metal thing going on. Did you notice Harry
thinks it's quite all right and good engineering practice to drill
holes in structural members of his trailer? Anybody that has ANY bit
of engineering sense knows not to do that.

hk wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on
double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight
over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new
"semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover to the trailer...

Cheers.

These are available at craft/fabric stores in the width you need. Get a
few spares, they're cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-1-QUI.../dp/B001J4LM6W

hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.


Are you going to trailer with the cover on? Bungee cords won't be tight
enough and they don't last long in the weather. A wider, nylon, strap
around the I-beams is better than drilling.

hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:24 AM, lid wrote:
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:45:30 -0400,
wrote:

On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight
over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new
"semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...
I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

Why not just loop it around the frame and hook it back onto itself?

Rick

Also under consideration. I'll have to get over to West Marine this
week and see what's available. These might do:

http://tinyurl.com/ybzdm2c


They will be fine as long as you don't trailer it with those.

hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, wrote:
On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:



I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering.



Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions."

Loogy the Pomeranian...the saga continues...snap,snap,snarl,snarl...

http://tinyurl.com/yc88lm7



There are TWO snapping at each other. Nice choice! I wish I had all
day to look that crap up.

Bill McKee wrote:
wrote in message
...

On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:

On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:






On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:

I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.


Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...


Cheers.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless
steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for
the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

My aluminum trailer is welded. No nuts and bolts holding it together. Much
nicer way to build a trailer. My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted
together. Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. Luckily the bolt
broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway.



Some flexing is an advantage. Aluminum trailers tow better. The
lighter weight is a plus, too.