On Apr 13, 10:25*am, hk wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.


--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On Apr 13, 10:45*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.

On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the
stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer
together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new
"semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the
stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer
together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




Nice to see that you are duly annoyed with him. Seems like mission
accomplished. Good work loogey.

On Apr 13, 11:13*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:45 am, *wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:25 am, * *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.

D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the
stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer
together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

See above, dummy.

But, then again, go ahead, drill all the holes in it you want!

On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:


I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg


--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

"hk" wrote in message
...
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless
steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for
the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

My aluminum trailer is welded. No nuts and bolts holding it together. Much
nicer way to build a trailer. My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted
together. Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. Luckily the bolt
broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway.

On Apr 13, 3:59*pm, "Bill McKee" wrote:
"hk" wrote in message

...





On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, *wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:25 am, * *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.

D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless
steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for
the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.

--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

My aluminum trailer is welded. *No nuts and bolts holding it together. *Much
nicer way to build a trailer. *My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted
together. *Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. *Luckily the bolt
broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

One trouble with bolts and bolt holes in aluminum is that those
connections need to be slip-critical, meaning the two mating surfaces
to the work through compression of the bolt/nut. If you rely on the
bolt, then the softer aluminum holes get larger and larger with time.
Add to that the dissimilar metal thing going on. Did you notice Harry
thinks it's quite all right and good engineering practice to drill
holes in structural members of his trailer? Anybody that has ANY bit
of engineering sense knows not to do that.

Bill McKee wrote:
wrote in message
...

On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:

On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:






On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:

I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.


Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...


Cheers.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless
steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for
the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

My aluminum trailer is welded. No nuts and bolts holding it together. Much
nicer way to build a trailer. My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted
together. Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. Luckily the bolt
broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway.



Some flexing is an advantage. Aluminum trailers tow better. The
lighter weight is a plus, too.