My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

S.

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT), Scott Dickson
wrote:

My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

Is this the Corsair? Interesting configuration. The boat I had,
which was a year older than yours (I think), had a transom drain plug
also. Your's doesn't?

In any case, it's not hard to do - I've seen it done. It's a guestion
on a hole saw, brass insert, brass screws and some sealant - your
choice, but I'd use 3M 5200. The hull in that particular location on
that boat is fairly accessible.

Then again, you might want a pro to take the liability for doing it.

Up to you really.

On Oct 23, 3:11*pm, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT), Scott Dickson

wrote:
My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

Is this the Corsair? *Interesting configuration. *The boat I had,
which was a year older than yours (I think), had a transom drain plug
also. *Your's doesn't?

In any case, it's not hard to do - I've seen it done. *It's a guestion
on a hole saw, brass insert, brass screws and some sealant - your
choice, but I'd use 3M 5200. *The hull in that particular location on
that boat is fairly accessible.

Then again, you might want a pro to take the liability for doing it.

Up to you really.

Yes , it is the Thompson Lakes Corsair. A 1966.Great hull shape for
Lake Erie (usually large waves). No Transom Plug, only one in the
forward Bilge.I've thought about a Transom plug, but the Zinc is
directly in the way. Thanks for the sealant recommendation. I'll see
if I can find that in my locale.

On Oct 23, 4:46�pm, Scott Dickson wrote:
On Oct 23, 3:11�pm, Tom Francis - SWSports





wrote:
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT), Scott Dickson

wrote:
My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

Is this the Corsair? �Interesting configuration. �The boat I had,
which was a year older than yours (I think), had a transom drain plug
also. �Your's doesn't?

In any case, it's not hard to do - I've seen it done. �It's a guestion
on a hole saw, brass insert, brass screws and some sealant - your
choice, but I'd use 3M 5200. �The hull in that particular location on
that boat is fairly accessible.

Then again, you might want a pro to take the liability for doing it.

Up to you really.

Yes , it is the Thompson Lakes Corsair. A 1966.Great hull shape for
Lake Erie (usually large waves). No Transom Plug, only one in the
forward Bilge.I've thought about a Transom plug, but the Zinc is
directly in the way. Thanks for the sealant recommendation. I'll see
if I can find that in my locale.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

#3M 5200 is available at West Marine, Home Depot and many places in
between. It is REAL permanent but slow to fully cure so plan ahead.
Was me, I'l seal te edges of you newly cut hole with resin before
installing the drain assembly, just to be safe. About the transom,
could you relocate the zinc and then put in a drain there as well?
Have fun, nothing is more fun then messing around with boats!
Mike

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:55:22 -0700 (PDT), Mike wrote:

On Oct 23, 4:46?pm, Scott Dickson wrote:
On Oct 23, 3:11?pm, Tom Francis - SWSports





wrote:
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT), Scott Dickson

wrote:
My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

Is this the Corsair? ?Interesting configuration. ?The boat I had,
which was a year older than yours (I think), had a transom drain plug
also. ?Your's doesn't?

In any case, it's not hard to do - I've seen it done. ?It's a guestion
on a hole saw, brass insert, brass screws and some sealant - your
choice, but I'd use 3M 5200. ?The hull in that particular location on
that boat is fairly accessible.

Then again, you might want a pro to take the liability for doing it.

Up to you really.

Yes , it is the Thompson Lakes Corsair. A 1966.Great hull shape for
Lake Erie (usually large waves). No Transom Plug, only one in the
forward Bilge.I've thought about a Transom plug, but the Zinc is
directly in the way. Thanks for the sealant recommendation. I'll see
if I can find that in my locale.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

#3M 5200 is available at West Marine, Home Depot and many places in
between. It is REAL permanent but slow to fully cure so plan ahead.
Was me, I'l seal te edges of you newly cut hole with resin before
installing the drain assembly, just to be safe. About the transom,
could you relocate the zinc and then put in a drain there as well?
Have fun, nothing is more fun then messing around with boats!

The Corsair I had looked like it was placed over the drain plug at one
time, but it had been moved to the starboard side stern - now that I
think about it, and the way Scott described it, I'd bet money that's
what the previous owner did.

Goot idea on the resin.

It's a funny way to configure a drain though - I've seen other
Corsairs of similar vintage, including Chris Craft and they all had
that forward hull drain.

Weird place to put a drain.

On Oct 23, 9:55*pm, Mike wrote:
On Oct 23, 4:46 pm, Scott Dickson wrote:



On Oct 23, 3:11 pm, Tom Francis - SWSports

wrote:
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT), Scott Dickson

wrote:
My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

Is this the Corsair? Interesting configuration. The boat I had,
which was a year older than yours (I think), had a transom drain plug
also. Your's doesn't?

In any case, it's not hard to do - I've seen it done. It's a guestion
on a hole saw, brass insert, brass screws and some sealant - your
choice, but I'd use 3M 5200. The hull in that particular location on
that boat is fairly accessible.

Then again, you might want a pro to take the liability for doing it.

Up to you really.

Yes , it is the Thompson Lakes Corsair. A 1966.Great hull shape for
Lake Erie (usually large waves). No Transom Plug, only one in the
forward Bilge.I've thought about a Transom plug, but the Zinc is
directly in the way. Thanks for the sealant recommendation. I'll see
if I can find that in my locale.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

#3M 5200 is available at West Marine, Home Depot and many places in
between. *It is REAL permanent but slow to fully cure so plan ahead.
Was me, I'l seal te edges of you newly cut hole with resin before
installing the drain assembly, just to be safe. *About the transom,
could you relocate the zinc and then put in a drain there as well?
Have fun, nothing is more fun then messing around with boats!
Mike

Funny, the marine catalog I have for my local Dealer says the 5200 is
a FAST curing sealant.

On Oct 24, 11:00�am, Scott Dickson wrote:
On Oct 23, 9:55�pm, Mike wrote:





On Oct 23, 4:46 pm, Scott Dickson wrote:

On Oct 23, 3:11 pm, Tom Francis - SWSports

wrote:
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT), Scott Dickson

wrote:
My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

Is this the Corsair? Interesting configuration. The boat I had,
which was a year older than yours (I think), had a transom drain plug
also. Your's doesn't?

In any case, it's not hard to do - I've seen it done. It's a guestion
on a hole saw, brass insert, brass screws and some sealant - your
choice, but I'd use 3M 5200. The hull in that particular location on
that boat is fairly accessible.

Then again, you might want a pro to take the liability for doing it..

Up to you really.

Yes , it is the Thompson Lakes Corsair. A 1966.Great hull shape for
Lake Erie (usually large waves). No Transom Plug, only one in the
forward Bilge.I've thought about a Transom plug, but the Zinc is
directly in the way. Thanks for the sealant recommendation. I'll see
if I can find that in my locale.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

#3M 5200 is available at West Marine, Home Depot and many places in
between. �It is REAL permanent but slow to fully cure so plan ahead.
Was me, I'l seal te edges of you newly cut hole with resin before
installing the drain assembly, just to be safe. �About the transom,
could you relocate the zinc and then put in a drain there as well?
Have fun, nothing is more fun then messing around with boats!
Mike

Funny, the marine catalog I have for my local Dealer says the 5200 is
a FAST curing sealant.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The original product was slow, there is a second version that is
"fast", both are good, depends on your application.

Mike

On Oct 23, 9:55*pm, Mike wrote:
On Oct 23, 4:46 pm, Scott Dickson wrote:



On Oct 23, 3:11 pm, Tom Francis - SWSports

wrote:
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:03:26 -0700 (PDT), Scott Dickson

wrote:
My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.

Is this the Corsair? Interesting configuration. The boat I had,
which was a year older than yours (I think), had a transom drain plug
also. Your's doesn't?

In any case, it's not hard to do - I've seen it done. It's a guestion
on a hole saw, brass insert, brass screws and some sealant - your
choice, but I'd use 3M 5200. The hull in that particular location on
that boat is fairly accessible.

Then again, you might want a pro to take the liability for doing it.

Up to you really.

Yes , it is the Thompson Lakes Corsair. A 1966.Great hull shape for
Lake Erie (usually large waves). No Transom Plug, only one in the
forward Bilge.I've thought about a Transom plug, but the Zinc is
directly in the way. Thanks for the sealant recommendation. I'll see
if I can find that in my locale.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

#3M 5200 is available at West Marine, Home Depot and many places in
between. *It is REAL permanent but slow to fully cure so plan ahead.
Was me, I'l seal te edges of you newly cut hole with resin before
installing the drain assembly, just to be safe. *About the transom,
could you relocate the zinc and then put in a drain there as well?
Have fun, nothing is more fun then messing around with boats!
Mike

About the transom,
could you relocate the zinc and then put in a drain there as well?

If I did that, I wouldn't need the 2nd forward drain. The Zinc is dead
center. I dont know where else I'd put it ( zinc).....
I like the idea of 2 forward drains better. That way after I've
trailered the boat at the end of the day, I can open BOTH forward
drains and let it drain on the way home. Every time I come to a stop
at a light, it'll drain some more.

My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.


http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm
http://seagrant.uaf.edu/bookstore/bo...ilge-pumps.pdf
Lots of good info on the net. Don't want to wire in series with the other
pump 'cause if either switch is open niether will come on, parralel would be
ok but look at using a higher amp fuse.
There are a lot of options for thru hulls and the best prices I've seen at
Defender.com. I'd guess that the other thru hull is bronze and you can
probably find another that matches.
Might mask around the fittings cause bedding like 5200 doesn't like to come
off once it dries and the masking can be removed before the bedding cures
making clean up easier. Also, don't tighten all the way after installing,
stop about 3/16' or so from bottoming and let the bedding cure, then tighten
the inner ring (thru hull) and you'll have a nice seal. If you tighten all
the way with the sealant soft, it'll all squeeze out and you'll end up with
a thin coat between the hull and fitting. 5200 comes in fast or slow cure.
I've had a couple of old CC sailboats and have never seen better
craftsmanship in any other boat.

"mmc" wrote in message
g.com...

My Chris Craft has one forward Bilge Plug on one side of the hull
beside the keel. When I store the boat, I drop the nose to allow water
to escape. The trouble is that it only drains on that side. Water
still stays in the boat on one side. Would anyone install another
matching plug on the other side by themselves, or would you have a Pro
do it?
Just curious. I have to end this problem, and wondered how tough this
operation is. There's lots of room to work in the area.


http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm
http://seagrant.uaf.edu/bookstore/bo...ilge-pumps.pdf
Lots of good info on the net. Don't want to wire in series with the other
pump 'cause if either switch is open niether will come on, parralel would
be ok but look at using a higher amp fuse.
There are a lot of options for thru hulls and the best prices I've seen at
Defender.com. I'd guess that the other thru hull is bronze and you can
probably find another that matches.
Might mask around the fittings cause bedding like 5200 doesn't like to
come off once it dries and the masking can be removed before the bedding
cures making clean up easier. Also, don't tighten all the way after
installing, stop about 3/16' or so from bottoming and let the bedding
cure, then tighten the inner ring (thru hull) and you'll have a nice seal.
If you tighten all the way with the sealant soft, it'll all squeeze out
and you'll end up with a thin coat between the hull and fitting. 5200
comes in fast or slow cure.
I've had a couple of old CC sailboats and have never seen better
craftsmanship in any other boat.

Guess I should've read the header...I was pontificating on a installing a
bilge pump.