So you recommend something like this PLMRA420
(http://www.pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRA220-420.pdf) but would I be able to
setup the four speakers on the two preamps, and all i would lose is the
ability to fade front to back correct? then bridge the other for the sub????
would that work? ? ?

Thanx.




"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , "Matt"
wrote:
Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the
sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too...

I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to
get
a powered sub...

What do you suggest?

I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel.
One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers.
The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers.
Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately.

greg


"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , "Matt"
wrote:
Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is
as
dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure
if
it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n
a
boat would be difficult..

Thanks!


"Matt" wrote in message
...
I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a
marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers.

Question:

I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on
mounting,
as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really
doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot
of
constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and
non-powered.

Any help is appreciated.


Why do you need 6 channels ?
Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area
with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old
Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music.
If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best
way to go.

PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them.

I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers.

There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in sal****er
marine
installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some
kind
of O rings
somewhere.


greg

Follow-up, I was looking to match that amp up with, my current 4 6.5
infinity kappas, then either the Pyle 8" non-amplified sub enclosure or the
Bazooka 8" sub enclosure (if the 10" bazooka will fit, maybe i'll go with
that) all are 4ohms.


"Matt" wrote in message
...
So you recommend something like this PLMRA420
(http://www.pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRA220-420.pdf) but would I be able to
setup the four speakers on the two preamps, and all i would lose is the
ability to fade front to back correct? then bridge the other for the
sub???? would that work? ? ?

Thanx.




"GregS" wrote in message
...
In article , "Matt"
wrote:
Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the
sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too...

I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to
get
a powered sub...

What do you suggest?

I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel.
One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers.
The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers.
Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately.

greg


"GregS" wrote in message
.. .
In article , "Matt"
wrote:
Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep
is
as
dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am
unsure
if
it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n
a
boat would be difficult..

Thanks!


"Matt" wrote in message
...
I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting
a
marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers.

Question:

I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on
mounting,
as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really
doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need
alot
of
constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and
non-powered.

Any help is appreciated.


Why do you need 6 channels ?
Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area
with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old
Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music.
If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best
way to go.

PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them.

I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers.

There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in sal****er
marine
installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some
kind
of O rings
somewhere.


greg

(GregS) wrote in news:gnh45v$gt2$1
@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu:

I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel.
One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers.
The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers.
Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately.

greg



I'm just an observer in this thread, but can I ask what kind of CHARGING
and BATTERY system this boat has to power all this load?

The average outboard motor charges tops at about 10-12
amps....TOTAL......at full throttle.......

I will be adding a second battery and a switch prior to installation of the
audio equipment...


"Larry" wrote in message
...
(GregS) wrote in news:gnh45v$gt2$1
@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu:

I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel.
One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers.
The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers.
Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately.

greg



I'm just an observer in this thread, but can I ask what kind of CHARGING
and BATTERY system this boat has to power all this load?

The average outboard motor charges tops at about 10-12
amps....TOTAL......at full throttle.......

"Matt" wrote in
:

will be adding a second battery and a switch prior to installation of
the
audio equipment...



That's great for the beach. What's the CHARGING capacity to supply power
to it? Big amps turned up loud have 20, 30, 50, 60, 75, 100A fuses.
They're not fused that heavy to impress buyers.

And, please make SURE the wiring from battery to the amps is more than
ample to blow the fuses so we don't read about "burning boat" and "ensuing
fire". It's very easy to melt light wiring before the big fuses melt.

In article , "Matt" wrote:
Follow-up, I was looking to match that amp up with, my current 4 6.5
infinity kappas, then either the Pyle 8" non-amplified sub enclosure or the
Bazooka 8" sub enclosure (if the 10" bazooka will fit, maybe i'll go with
that) all are 4ohms.


They don't give much specs but that should work. Funny it says waterproof and has holes !!

It didn't say where it would drive 2 ohms in non bridged mode. I huess you don't get much specs
for such low price.

I don't know if that amp has low/high filters but you need that.
Here is one that does.....
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=265-096

greg