On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 16:27:31 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
. ..

Everyone, thanks for the input. Unfortunately I realized early on that
this was going to be a miserable job.

The good news is that it appears that the wet core is limited to an area
of about 1 sq ft. I'm going to drill some more exploritory holes this
weekend.

I placed a photo of the area on my web site. Note that it shows the
boat with the headliner removed, but that's a separate question. The
photo is at http://www.geoffschultz.org/temp/20081031_155154.jpg

I'm thinking of going with method 2 due to small size of the effected
area and accessability.


-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?
You can then get all the rotten core out and replace it, and then the repair
will finally be hidden under your replaced headlining.
If you cut out a rectangular section with a precision tool to get at the
core, as someone else has suggested, it will be a simple matter to fix it
back even though you will be working overhead.
I did not really agree with the original suggestion that Method 1 is
necessarily _expensive_. Seems fairly simple compared with some of the other
methods suggested and has the great advantage that you know you have got all
the rotten stuff out and replaced it. No messing about wondering whether you
have got it all out and/or dried it all out.



Go down to your local yard and ask them how much it is going to cost?

I'm so conditioned to my neighbor boats paying someone to change their
oil I automatically assume that all the other boaters are going to
contract their work out :-)
Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 16:27:31 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?

Method 1 from the under side is method 2. :-)

Jere Lull wrote:

On 2008-11-06 10:27:31 -0500, "Edgar" said:

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the
Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?


Watch that. Not only is working up underneath wet fiberglass an
invitation to a nasty clean-up job, but I found that our "underside" is
thicker than the outer skin. Had I disturbed that, I'd have had a really
big job on my hands.


Totall agreement with you on that one, Jere.

I've done one small (stantion area) repair from under.

That's the only time in years of working with resin that I actually
had resin in my hair!

Yech...

--

Richard

(remove the X to email)

On Fri, 07 Nov 2008 06:19:48 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 09:20:20 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:00:27 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 06:36:23 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:47:42 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:


We are talking about completely saturated balsa, not drying green
lumber to get SOME of the native moisture out. Besides, you can't get
it in the kiln while it's still sandwiched between two layers of
fiberglass and attached to a boat. If it's been wet for any length of
time, the balsa is permanently damaged anyway, and replacement is
mandated.

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.


Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)


No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)

Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
From:
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2008 21:15:18 -0500
Local: Thurs, Nov 6 2008 9:15 am
Subject: Leaking Porthole
Forget it. It won't come even close to working. You'd have a tough
time getting the water out of that balsa baking it for weeks in a warm
oven.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

In waht you quoted above I said "You'd" which is a contraction for
"You WOULD"

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.

Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)

No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)

So, this would sort of be like having a bun in the oven? LOL

Only from the "you're ****ed" perspective.

On Nov 6, 4:56*pm, cavelamb himself wrote:
Jere Lull wrote:
On 2008-11-06 10:27:31 -0500, "Edgar" said:

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the
Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?

Watch that. Not only is working up underneath wet fiberglass an
invitation to a nasty clean-up job, but I found that our "underside" is
thicker than the outer skin. Had I disturbed that, I'd have had a really
big job on my hands.

Totall agreement with you on that one, Jere.

I've done one small (stantion area) repair from under.

That's the only time in years of working with resin that I actually
had resin in my hair!

Yech...

--

Richard

(remove the X to email)

Its gonna be Messy whatever you do.
Its been my policy that water flows into boats from the weather side
to the inside. If i can help it i never crack the finish on the
weather side. One little pin hole means you are at it again in a few
years.

"Bill Kearney" wrote in message
...

So, in this case, no, you can't kiln dry it.

Well, you did say you were going to put it in the oven :-)

No I didn't. I said even if you DID, it wouldn't fix the problem. :-)

So, this would sort of be like having a bun in the oven? LOL

Only from the "you're ****ed" perspective.


It would have to be in the past tense of couse. LOL

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com