Skip, you got good advice from JPS and Glenn. SeaLand "OdorSafe" and the
Aussie "Odorfree" hose have proven in independent testing to be 16 x
more resistant to odor permation than any other sanitation hose on the
market. It's stiff as an ironing board, though...which means you'll
most likely need to use inline radius fittings. Don't ever heat ANY hose
to bend it tighter than it wants to bend easily...you'll damage the
hose. I've seen it kink, and even develop tears on the outside of a hard
bend.

The Sealand "Odorsafe" hose is actually from an Aussie company, its real
product name is AVS96. There may be other companies distributing this
hose in the states since I believe they've started to manufacture it
here.

They haven't begun mfr'g it here, only distributing it under their own
brand name. For nearly 10 years, SeaLand was the exclusive US
distributer...they private labelled it "OdorSafe." I don't have the
inside skinny (yet) about why that deal is over, but the Aussies aren't
selling it to SeaLand any more at all...they're marketing it here under
their own brand name "AVS96 Odorfree." Here's a link to the Aussies'
website about it: http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm

Meanwhile, SeaLand has just introduced "OdorSafe Plus," which they claim
is even better and is made in Italy. Price is the about the same for it
as for original OdorSafe/AVS96. I haven't seen any test results on it
yet, so I'm taking a "wait and see" stance for now. But I do know that
the AVS96 stuff is all but totally impervious to odor permeation...it's
readily available here...and that's what I'd use if it were my own boat.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

Peggie Hall wrote:
It's stiff as an ironing board, though...which means you'll
most likely need to use inline radius fittings.


Peggie,

What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these
before. Do you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick
search and didn't find anything.)

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these before. Do
you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick search and didn't
find anything.)


Try he http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down
till you come to the fittings.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Peggie Hall wrote:
What are "inline radius fittings"?

Try he http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down
till you come to the fittings.

Thank you!

I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed
male thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I
had all three in abundance before my husband took over and used a
piece of rubber exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and
smells, than the head that can't be used at all.) Any good
suggestions for making this work without heating (and splitting)
the hose?

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.

Cindy Ballreich wrote:

SNIP

Any good

suggestions for making this work without heating (and splitting)
the hose?

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

Jim Conlin wrote:
Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split.
Also, once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than
the rest of the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west
marine hose oil.

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
Jim Conlin wrote:

Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split. Also,
once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than the rest of
the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

KY

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

West Marine actually markets an oil labelled just for hose connections???

I hope it's water soluble, 'cuz no oil or grease should ever be used on
a hose connections 'cuz it leaves the surfaces permanently
slippery...the hose can work its back off, even if securely clamped. No
petroleum based products should be used 'cuz they're destructive to
rubber. Dishwashing liquid or better yet, K-Y jelly (water soluble
surgical jelly), are the only acceptable hose lubricants I know of.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
Jim Conlin wrote:

Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split. Also,
once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than the rest of
the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

KY

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

West Marine actually markets an oil labelled just for hose connections???

I hope it's water soluble, 'cuz no oil or grease should ever be used on
a hose connections 'cuz it leaves the surfaces permanently
slippery...the hose can work its back off, even if securely clamped. No
petroleum based products should be used 'cuz they're destructive to
rubber. Dishwashing liquid or better yet, K-Y jelly (water soluble
surgical jelly), are the only acceptable hose lubricants I know of.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html