Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?

I oil all surfaces and for water pumps, I try to get some glycol inside to
keep the impellor from deteriorating.

In some instances I coat the exterior with grease. If I could get some
cosmolein (sp?) I would dip the in that.. I have just recently found that it
is available to gun buffs.

I then wrap them in industrial towels prior to putting them in ziplock bags.
I usually double bag, just in case..

Don't forget to put labels on the interior and outside. The exterior one
will most likely deteriorate.

For my OEM alternator (now my spare). I wraped it in a towel and then double
bagged it. (I left the harness on the engine, unaltered so I can just slip
it back in place)

I mounted my spare prop with a bolt to a stanction in the engine room, along
with the spare nut and key duct taped to it. I also keep a home made prop
puller with bolts on board with some old wrenches that fit the prop nut and
the puller nuts.

Spare belts should be tried out first and I usually leave the new belt on
and save the slightly used ones for the spares. Since you change belt every
other season or so, these can be stored without any special packaging. Same
with filters, if they are stored for more than a year or so, they tend to
rust, so rotate you spares.

If you have spare gaskets, the cardboard package won't stand up to rough
storeage conditions. I cut a piece of thin ply and tape the package to that.

Work out a storage and record system which will identify the item and the
storage locker that it's in. Try to avoid storing items too deep in lockers
that my become damp or contain water. Low is good but damp will eventually
get into the packaging.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Wed, 7 Apr 2004 12:29:30 -0700, "Steve" wrote:


I then wrap them in industrial towels prior to putting them in ziplock bags.
I usually double bag, just in case..

What's an industrial towel. Something for drying off factories after
it rains? :-)

It can't be anything like a regular towel, because I can't think of a
better way to trap moisture in a package than to put a regular towel
in there.

Besides moisture resistance, a big concern with any plastic bag would
be abrasion resistance. The plastic used for oil "cans" will
eventually rub right through from the rocking in a seaway, unless
stored very carefully. Don't ask me how I know this...

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

I have both shop wiping rags that you get at Harbor Frieght or I also have a
paper towel that is made out of shreded cloth. They come sheets about 20
inch square and are very absorbant.

I keep them dry and stick the wiping rags in the dryer before I use them to
wrap parts..

I also have about 50 lb of desicant but haven't dried it out yet, so
sometime in the future I will make up decicant packs for each spare parts
package.

Most of my parts already have a film of diesel or lub oil on them and the
wrapping is to keep the sharp edges from punching a hole in the bag.

Steve

I have both shop wiping rags that you get at Harbor Frieght or I also have a
paper towel that is made out of shreded cloth. They come sheets about 20
inch square and are very absorbant.

I keep them dry and stick the wiping rags in the dryer before I use them to
wrap parts..

I also have about 50 lb of desicant but haven't dried it out yet, so
sometime in the future I will make up decicant packs for each spare parts
package.

Most of my parts already have a film of diesel or lub oil on them and the
wrapping is to keep the sharp edges from punching a hole in the bag.

Steve

On Wed, 7 Apr 2004 12:29:30 -0700, "Steve" wrote:


I then wrap them in industrial towels prior to putting them in ziplock bags.
I usually double bag, just in case..

What's an industrial towel. Something for drying off factories after
it rains? :-)

It can't be anything like a regular towel, because I can't think of a
better way to trap moisture in a package than to put a regular towel
in there.

Besides moisture resistance, a big concern with any plastic bag would
be abrasion resistance. The plastic used for oil "cans" will
eventually rub right through from the rocking in a seaway, unless
stored very carefully. Don't ask me how I know this...

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

On Wed, 7 Apr 2004 12:29:30 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

Spare belts should be tried out first and I usually leave the new belt on
and save the slightly used ones for the spares. Since you change belt every
other season or so, these can be stored without any special packaging.

I saw a neat trick on a trawler I delivered once. The owner actually
stored a spare belt on the engine. It was already routed properly,
then secured behind the pulleys. The idea was that if that one broke,
you didn't have to remove the other belt to replace it. The owner said
you could just get the belt started, then turn over the engine.
Instant no tools replacement for the back belt.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

On Wed, 7 Apr 2004 12:29:30 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

Spare belts should be tried out first and I usually leave the new belt on
and save the slightly used ones for the spares. Since you change belt every
other season or so, these can be stored without any special packaging.

I saw a neat trick on a trawler I delivered once. The owner actually
stored a spare belt on the engine. It was already routed properly,
then secured behind the pulleys. The idea was that if that one broke,
you didn't have to remove the other belt to replace it. The owner said
you could just get the belt started, then turn over the engine.
Instant no tools replacement for the back belt.

__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/

I oil all surfaces and for water pumps, I try to get some glycol inside to
keep the impellor from deteriorating.

In some instances I coat the exterior with grease. If I could get some
cosmolein (sp?) I would dip the in that.. I have just recently found that it
is available to gun buffs.

I then wrap them in industrial towels prior to putting them in ziplock bags.
I usually double bag, just in case..

Don't forget to put labels on the interior and outside. The exterior one
will most likely deteriorate.

For my OEM alternator (now my spare). I wraped it in a towel and then double
bagged it. (I left the harness on the engine, unaltered so I can just slip
it back in place)

I mounted my spare prop with a bolt to a stanction in the engine room, along
with the spare nut and key duct taped to it. I also keep a home made prop
puller with bolts on board with some old wrenches that fit the prop nut and
the puller nuts.

Spare belts should be tried out first and I usually leave the new belt on
and save the slightly used ones for the spares. Since you change belt every
other season or so, these can be stored without any special packaging. Same
with filters, if they are stored for more than a year or so, they tend to
rust, so rotate you spares.

If you have spare gaskets, the cardboard package won't stand up to rough
storeage conditions. I cut a piece of thin ply and tape the package to that.

Work out a storage and record system which will identify the item and the
storage locker that it's in. Try to avoid storing items too deep in lockers
that my become damp or contain water. Low is good but damp will eventually
get into the packaging.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Suggest you get one of these

http://www.viworld.com/foodsaver/

And some heavy sandwich / food storage zip lock bags. Shouldn't be
necessary if you vacuum seal, but a shot of oil in each bag before sealing
might make you feel better. After sealing run a piece of duct tape over the
seal to insure it stays closed


On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 11:40:17 -0700, BCC wrote:

Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?







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