Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?

I oil all surfaces and for water pumps, I try to get some glycol inside to
keep the impellor from deteriorating.

In some instances I coat the exterior with grease. If I could get some
cosmolein (sp?) I would dip the in that.. I have just recently found that it
is available to gun buffs.

I then wrap them in industrial towels prior to putting them in ziplock bags.
I usually double bag, just in case..

Don't forget to put labels on the interior and outside. The exterior one
will most likely deteriorate.

For my OEM alternator (now my spare). I wraped it in a towel and then double
bagged it. (I left the harness on the engine, unaltered so I can just slip
it back in place)

I mounted my spare prop with a bolt to a stanction in the engine room, along
with the spare nut and key duct taped to it. I also keep a home made prop
puller with bolts on board with some old wrenches that fit the prop nut and
the puller nuts.

Spare belts should be tried out first and I usually leave the new belt on
and save the slightly used ones for the spares. Since you change belt every
other season or so, these can be stored without any special packaging. Same
with filters, if they are stored for more than a year or so, they tend to
rust, so rotate you spares.

If you have spare gaskets, the cardboard package won't stand up to rough
storeage conditions. I cut a piece of thin ply and tape the package to that.

Work out a storage and record system which will identify the item and the
storage locker that it's in. Try to avoid storing items too deep in lockers
that my become damp or contain water. Low is good but damp will eventually
get into the packaging.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I oil all surfaces and for water pumps, I try to get some glycol inside to
keep the impellor from deteriorating.

In some instances I coat the exterior with grease. If I could get some
cosmolein (sp?) I would dip the in that.. I have just recently found that it
is available to gun buffs.

I then wrap them in industrial towels prior to putting them in ziplock bags.
I usually double bag, just in case..

Don't forget to put labels on the interior and outside. The exterior one
will most likely deteriorate.

For my OEM alternator (now my spare). I wraped it in a towel and then double
bagged it. (I left the harness on the engine, unaltered so I can just slip
it back in place)

I mounted my spare prop with a bolt to a stanction in the engine room, along
with the spare nut and key duct taped to it. I also keep a home made prop
puller with bolts on board with some old wrenches that fit the prop nut and
the puller nuts.

Spare belts should be tried out first and I usually leave the new belt on
and save the slightly used ones for the spares. Since you change belt every
other season or so, these can be stored without any special packaging. Same
with filters, if they are stored for more than a year or so, they tend to
rust, so rotate you spares.

If you have spare gaskets, the cardboard package won't stand up to rough
storeage conditions. I cut a piece of thin ply and tape the package to that.

Work out a storage and record system which will identify the item and the
storage locker that it's in. Try to avoid storing items too deep in lockers
that my become damp or contain water. Low is good but damp will eventually
get into the packaging.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Suggest you get one of these

http://www.viworld.com/foodsaver/

And some heavy sandwich / food storage zip lock bags. Shouldn't be
necessary if you vacuum seal, but a shot of oil in each bag before sealing
might make you feel better. After sealing run a piece of duct tape over the
seal to insure it stays closed


On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 11:40:17 -0700, BCC wrote:

Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?







--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

Suggest you get one of these

http://www.viworld.com/foodsaver/

And some heavy sandwich / food storage zip lock bags. Shouldn't be
necessary if you vacuum seal, but a shot of oil in each bag before sealing
might make you feel better. After sealing run a piece of duct tape over the
seal to insure it stays closed


On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 11:40:17 -0700, BCC wrote:

Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?







--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

I think this would serve better
http://www.tilia.com/

I don't think the issue is the thickness of the plastic, but how well it lasts
over time. The Tilia bags are pretty tough and seem rather supple after several
years.



"Jim" wrote in message
news
Suggest you get one of these

http://www.viworld.com/foodsaver/

And some heavy sandwich / food storage zip lock bags. Shouldn't be
necessary if you vacuum seal, but a shot of oil in each bag before sealing
might make you feel better. After sealing run a piece of duct tape over the
seal to insure it stays closed


On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 11:40:17 -0700, BCC wrote:

Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?







--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

I think this would serve better
http://www.tilia.com/

I don't think the issue is the thickness of the plastic, but how well it lasts
over time. The Tilia bags are pretty tough and seem rather supple after several
years.



"Jim" wrote in message
news
Suggest you get one of these

http://www.viworld.com/foodsaver/

And some heavy sandwich / food storage zip lock bags. Shouldn't be
necessary if you vacuum seal, but a shot of oil in each bag before sealing
might make you feel better. After sealing run a piece of duct tape over the
seal to insure it stays closed


On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 11:40:17 -0700, BCC wrote:

Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?







--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

I just purchased a FoodSaver system (model 420) but I'm not happy with the
bag thickness. I'm considering returning it..

Example: I put 2 lb of dehydrated potatoes in 10 bags. Vacuumed them down
until the machine turned off. The bag was to tight that the potatoe slice
started breaking under the pressure. Next morning all of the bags have leaks
from the sharp edges of those broken slices.

Really no the frault of the bag material, but it I this can punchure the bag
then engine parts could as well..

If I keep the unit, I will wrap my parts in a shop towel, put it in the bag
and then vacuum it out.. Or I might first bag in a heavy ziploc then put it
inside the sealable Food Saver bag.

(the food saver can only seal their nylon or mylar bags. And their largest
bags are 11" across, by what ever length you want.)

Still unsure if it's worth the money.. The 8" model sells for around $70
and the cheapest 11" is close to $200. (depends where you shop.
--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I just purchased a FoodSaver system (model 420) but I'm not happy with the
bag thickness. I'm considering returning it..

Example: I put 2 lb of dehydrated potatoes in 10 bags. Vacuumed them down
until the machine turned off. The bag was to tight that the potatoe slice
started breaking under the pressure. Next morning all of the bags have leaks
from the sharp edges of those broken slices.

Really no the frault of the bag material, but it I this can punchure the bag
then engine parts could as well..

If I keep the unit, I will wrap my parts in a shop towel, put it in the bag
and then vacuum it out.. Or I might first bag in a heavy ziploc then put it
inside the sealable Food Saver bag.

(the food saver can only seal their nylon or mylar bags. And their largest
bags are 11" across, by what ever length you want.)

Still unsure if it's worth the money.. The 8" model sells for around $70
and the cheapest 11" is close to $200. (depends where you shop.
--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 11:40:17 -0700, BCC wrote:

Looking for good method to pack long term spare parts on long term
cruise - like a spare alternator, starter, diesel injector pump,
expensive things.

What I'm thinking is a very heavy gauge individual bags - something
like almost 1/8" thick. Taped up with the clear packing tape that's
about 2" wide. You need to be able to see what's inside.

The Seal-a-Meal and other vaccum pack stuff is way too thin to last on
a cruising boat for 6+ years.

I've found very heavy bags on the net - but you need to buy 100 or a
1000 at a time.

Also - looking for something to put in the bag as an anti-rust,
corrosion, etc inhibitor.

Any suggestions?


You might want to look into vapor (or volatile) corrosion inhibitors.
The substance slowly evaporates and deposits itself on the surface of
whatever it's protecting, making a moisture barrier. No muss, no fuss,
no mess. It's commonly used by gun enthusiasts, because some of the
most common and beautiful gun finishes don't resist corrosion worth
beans.

It comes in a variety of forms. I 've seen heavy guage bags (always
blue for some reason) that are impregnated with the stuff. Just drop
whatever you want to protect into the bag and seal it. More commonly,
I've seen it as little yellow tabs you can drop into tool kits, boxes,
etc. Effectiveness goes up radically when the package is tightly
sealed, as you'd expect.

Not all plastic bags seal out moisture well. See this site
http://www.protectivepackaging.net/corrosion.cfm
for a short discussion of what to look for.

Another option is the metal dessicant cans. I use these for my camera
gear. They're reusable, a few minutes in a hot oven bakes all the
moisture out of them. For cameras, corrosion is not the prime
problem. There are funguses that like to eat the coatings on lenses
and keeping the humidity down eliminates the problem. Coin shops
often stock dessicants.


__________________________________________________ __________
Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at worldwidewiley dot com
To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/