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#1
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Take a spring from bow to shore. Put lots of fenders up
front. Apply full helm towards the shore. Slowly add power. The stern will walk away from the shore until you can back off from the quay in comfort. Of course, but what does that have to do with an observation that with the helm amidships you won't achieve enough side thrust from the prop to kick the stern away from the dock? In a *moderate* wind, the spring line is usually unneccessary. Removing from the question originally posed to the board any variable that says the rudder cannot be used allows the rudder to be turned toward the dock, and a brief application of forward will indeed "kick out" the stern. (Just have to make sure that you don't whack the stem in the process) |
#2
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Hello otn,
I wasn't quite sure what you were driving at until I read your last sentence and then it all became crystal clear. So the answer is "yes" I would understand what you were saying and "yes" it would help me understand the concept. But even though the term "thrust" is easy for most people to understand, the concept of a "vector" (magnitude and direction) may not be. But only you know who your target audience is, and whether they would understand what a vector is. Hope this helps, Bob Whitaker "Free Spirit" otnmbrd wrote in message hlink.net... For years, on occasion, I've have been involved with teaching someone boat handling, using single and/or twin screw inboards. Naturally, (especially on twin screw+) the issue of rudder use arises ( from here we will consider this a twin screw+ discussion). So that everyone knows, I am a STRONG proponent of rudder use, but I understand many of the arguments against (G just don't agree with all of them or feel the argument doesn't really address the issue). In all of my discussions, I have had a problem with the term "steering", as in "the boats moving too slow to steer with rudders", or "rudders are not effective at these speeds". At any rate, I knew I was never able to explain my point clearly and concisely. Recently, for some unknown reason, I remembered a TV show on jet fighters which discussed (I believe) thrust vectoring, and it dawned on me that this may be just the term to describe what I am trying to get across to those I am teaching. With this in mind, for those with twin screw boats, if I told you that rudders were important tools of boat handling, but not to be considered for steering, rather for "thrust vectoring", when maneuvering around a dock, etc., when kicking an engine ahead, both positive and negative ...... would you understand what I was saying? otn |
#3
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#4
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I like
to think of it as a jet of water created between the prop tips and the hull, but I'm not sure if that's an accurate visualization or not. it is caused by asymetrical thrust of an angled prop shaft. When backing up the blade coming up to the hull has a much greater "angle of attack" than the blade going down from the hull. Thus more thrust on one side than the other. (there is also asym thrust when going forward, but the rudder can compensate for this as long as the prop is *pushing* water over the rudder, or the boat is moving forward) It is also caused to some extent by the contrainment of the prop wash against the hull on the up side blade, compared to no constrainment on the down side blade. the prop will will "walk" in the direction of movement of the bottom blade. |
#5
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(speaking of prop walk)
I like to think of it as a jet of water created between the prop tips and the hull, but I'm not sure if that's an accurate visualization or not. JAXAshby wrote: it is caused by asymetrical thrust of an angled prop shaft. Oh, really? If that is true, then a saildrive or a design with a perfectly horizontal prop shaft would not have any prop walk. It is also caused to some extent by the contrainment of the prop wash against the hull on the up side blade, compared to no constrainment on the down side blade. If that were true, then surface drives would not exhibit any prop walk either. the prop will will "walk" in the direction of movement of the bottom blade. Unlike the previous parts of your post, which is just plain wrong, this is backwards. Prop walk will push the stern in the opposite direction to that of the bottom arc of the propellor. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#6
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#7
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OK, the implication of your assertion is that a prop shaft parallel to
the water line, and with little or no hull/aperature entrapment, will exhibit little or no prop walk. Many full keel lobster boat and trawler types come close to meeting that criteria. Does anyone know if that holds up to real world experience? A prop is shaped to move water most efficiently when in forward gear. This is one reason that it takes more rpm to achieve a given speed in reverse. Some props are worse than others......(folding props under some sailboats are a total joke in reverse and you need to put the brakes on pretty early- even at close to zero knots). Twin screw boaters have experienced the phenomenon where the reverse wheel requires a little more throttle than the forward to achieve an almost perfect pivot. When a single screw is in reverse, the stern will tend to follow the direction of the top blade of the prop rotation, not the bottom. Example, a rh propeller turns clockwise. Viewed from astern, the top blade goes to starboard and the bottom blade to port when the vessel is in forward gear. When in reverse, the top blade is moving to port and the bottom blade to starboard. RH prop vessels routinely back to port. Prop walk is always present, whether in forward gear or reverse. Yes, the amount of angle on the prop shaft will increase the amount of prop walk. Prop walk is not so much a problem in forward because the keel and rudder apply greater directional influence than the side thrust of the prop. After a while, we single screw boaters (yes, my wife knew all about that deficiency when she married me)...learn to use a balance between prop walk and rudder to steer in reverse. For example, my boat tends to back to starboard. To back to port, we need a full left rudder and even then we won't start moving to port until we pick up a bit of speed and the pressure of the water flowing over the rudder is greater than the pressure produced by the prop walk. To move more quickly to port, (once we have sternway established), we can take the engine out of gear, momentarily, so the rudder isn't fighting the prop. |
#8
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![]() JAXAshby wrote in message ... it is caused by asymetrical thrust of an angled prop shaft. When backing up the blade coming up to the hull has a much greater "angle of attack" than the blade going down from the hull. Thus more thrust on one side than the other. Interesting theory. Can't think where you got that from. Better check the trig though. 1 ft/sec astern, typical prop tip speed about 50ft/sec, lets say one 1 degree. Differential effect of 20deg shaft angle, 1-cos20 = 0.06deg. Lets say 1/20 degree. Compared to a typical prop pitch of 20deg or so that means that 1/400 of your thrust (800 lb? reduced to 2lb) is being exercised over a moment arm of 16 inches to turn your vessel. OK, that's coarse maths from the back of an envelope, with a margin of error of maybe an order. But I still don't think that even 30 ft/lb is going to turn your vessel. That's what I use to tighten my nuts. And it reduces to zero when you have zero stern way. So your theory can only true when the boat is actually travelling in reverse (your definition of backing up?). It is utterly trivial compared to the paddle wheel effect. You can test this statement by selecting reverse while moving slowly forward. The vessel won't kick first one way, then the other. It'll go the paddle wheel way. It is also caused to some extent by the contrainment of the prop wash against the hull on the up side blade, compared to no constrainment on the down side blade. Don't understand that. All forces are the result of changes in momentum. The wash spirals away from the prop. Read on. On the upper side, the lateral speed of the spiral is slowed by friction against the ship's hull. The lower side much less so. So the lower lateral momentum added is greater than the upper. The result is a force as if paddled by the lower blades. You could also think of it as the frictional force exerted on the hull by slowing the lateral speed of the upper part of the spiral. Whichever, it's the opposite direction to your theory, which, in turn, doesn't tie in with my experience. JimB |
#9
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jim, asym thrust has been a known factor since before WW2.
it is caused by asymetrical thrust of an angled prop shaft. When backing up the blade coming up to the hull has a much greater "angle of attack" than the blade going down from the hull. Thus more thrust on one side than the other. Interesting theory. Can't think where you got that from. Better check the trig though. 1 ft/sec astern, typical prop tip speed about 50ft/sec, lets say one 1 degree. Differential effect of 20deg shaft angle, 1-cos20 = 0.06deg. Lets say 1/20 degree. Compared to a typical prop pitch of 20deg or so that means that 1/400 of your thrust (800 lb? reduced to 2lb) is being exercised over a moment arm of 16 inches to turn your vessel. OK, that's coarse maths from the back of an envelope, with a margin of error of maybe an order. But I still don't think that even 30 ft/lb is going to turn your vessel. That's what I use to tighten my nuts. And it reduces to zero when you have zero stern way. So your theory can only true when the boat is actually travelling in reverse (your definition of backing up?). It is utterly trivial compared to the paddle wheel effect. You can test this statement by selecting reverse while moving slowly forward. The vessel won't kick first one way, then the other. It'll go the paddle wheel way. It is also caused to some extent by the contrainment of the prop wash against the hull on the up side blade, compared to no constrainment on the down side blade. Don't understand that. All forces are the result of changes in momentum. The wash spirals away from the prop. Read on. On the upper side, the lateral speed of the spiral is slowed by friction against the ship's hull. The lower side much less so. So the lower lateral momentum added is greater than the upper. The result is a force as if paddled by the lower blades. You could also think of it as the frictional force exerted on the hull by slowing the lateral speed of the upper part of the spiral. Whichever, it's the opposite direction to your theory, which, in turn, doesn't tie in with my experience. JimB |
#10
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![]() Wayne.B wrote: From a teaching standpoint, I think it might be more clear, and to a wider audience, if you referred to the concept as "directed thrust", i.e., using the rudder to direct the prop thrust to port or starboard. It means the same thing but to me it's more intuitive. G Thanks .... as I say, "thrust vectoring" may need work. I think the most difficult concept to visualize is "prop walk". It's not instantly clear what is generating the side force, or in which direction. Prop walk is important to understand because it seems to cause much of the consternation when backing a single screw. I like to think of it as a jet of water created between the prop tips and the hull, but I'm not sure if that's an accurate visualization or not. If true, it would imply that deeply mounted props, away from the hull, should generate less "walk" but I'm not sure if that is valid. I consider prop walk to be due to the angle/pitch of the blade, pulling the prop to one side, on the downward stroke and pushing to the same side on the upward stroke (rather simplistic), which really has nothing to due with shaft angle (look at many trawler types and ships - little shaft angle but significant walk, plus the props are generally away from the hull).... again, this is MY way of explaining it. It seems to be a consensus among experienced twin screw captains that leaving the rudders amidship is good practice for most maneuvers. There are exceptions of course but having the rudders amidship leads to more predictable response in my experience. Comments? G This last paragraph is probably my main reason for trying to find a "simplistic" yet effective way of discussing this. First off, how you handle a particular twin screw boat will depend on a number of factors: 1. the boat - length, breadth, hull shape, windage 2. the props - inboard turning or outboard turning 3. the conditions - wind and current 4. the operator - what works for one person, does not always work for another. 5. the rudders - large, small, old fashion, semi balanced, balanced. I consider myself to be a fairly experienced twin screw boat handler, but contrary to the above, I normally will start off using rudders and will continue to do so, until and unless I find them of no value. Now, this works for me - it's not written in stone, but my main feeling is that I want the rudders to be a familiar option, if a REAL need should arise, i.e., I don't have to give their use a second thought. Again, thanks for your comments. otn |
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