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#1
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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The probably chief cause of keel bolt failure is: they are not
removable for inspection. Stainless steels are 'very' subject to 'crevice corrosion' and fatigue failure, mostly a combination of the two modes of failure. Worse, the maximum stres on a keel boat is 'cantilever stress' ... very hard to predict since the loads and actions are 'variable to unforseen'. Aiarcraft have the almost same problem with cantilever stress ... but those wing root bolts are REMOVEABLE and thus are able to be periodically inspected. So, keel bolt failure is a functional design failure due to the bolts not being able to be removed and periodically inspected. Encapsulated (iron) keels are not a panacea, as if the cavity is penetrated and water enters, the rust (ferric) that forms is less dense than the original metal (iron) and the encapsulated keel will 'push' itself apart ... then the balllast will simply fall out if the rust formation is that great. So, from the above it seems that a encapsulated keel with solid lead internal ballast would probably be the 'best'. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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![]() "RichH" wrote in message ... The probably chief cause of keel bolt failure is: they are not removable for inspection. Stainless steels are 'very' subject to 'crevice corrosion' and fatigue failure, mostly a combination of the two modes of failure. Worse, the maximum stres on a keel boat is 'cantilever stress' ... very hard to predict since the loads and actions are 'variable to unforseen'. Aiarcraft have the almost same problem with cantilever stress ... but those wing root bolts are REMOVEABLE and thus are able to be periodically inspected. So, keel bolt failure is a functional design failure due to the bolts not being able to be removed and periodically inspected. Encapsulated (iron) keels are not a panacea, as if the cavity is penetrated and water enters, the rust (ferric) that forms is less dense than the original metal (iron) and the encapsulated keel will 'push' itself apart ... then the balllast will simply fall out if the rust formation is that great. So, from the above it seems that a encapsulated keel with solid lead internal ballast would probably be the 'best'. I think the best keel is a drop keel and water ballast just like that which the Macgregor 26 series of fine and respected sailboats uses. You have NEVER heard of one single solitary Mac26 with a keel falling off of it, have you? -- Gregory Hall |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Jun 10, 7:50 am, RichH wrote:
The probably chief cause of keel bolt failure is: they are not removable for inspection. As I said before, just looking at the pictures in the link I think the failure was of the hull bottom (or structural keel of the vessel) and not the keel bolts. Hull failure is not uncommon in hard groundings on lightly built, fin keeled boats but I think that is a separate topic. Stainless steels are 'very' subject to 'crevice corrosion' and fatigue failure, mostly a combination of the two modes of failure. Worse, the maximum stres on a keel boat is 'cantilever stress' ... very hard to predict since the loads and actions are 'variable to unforseen'. The "Received Wisdom" is that stainless is not the best choice for keel bolts because it is subject to crevice corrosion and wasting in an wet, low oxygen environment. Fatigue failure can be engineered around. I haven't looked into it but my guess is that the time to ductility exhaustion of the typical set of ss keel bolts would be on the order of forever and a day. Cantilevers and sheer stress are pretty well understood for bolts and beams. And, in the case of keels where weight isn't generally a concern designers can be, and generally are, very conservative. ... So, keel bolt failure is a functional design failure due to the bolts not being able to be removed and periodically inspected. Kinda Zen statistics, but my feeling is that most keel bolt failures, as opposed to keel failures, are on fairly new racing boats and probably result from over aggressive designs or constructions errors. In any case, keel bolt failure is very rare. Yes, it would be good if the bolts were easy to inspect and yes, stainless isn't the best choice for them, but in practice, the fleet is holding up very well. ... So, from the above it seems that a encapsulated keel with solid lead internal ballast would probably be the 'best'. Well, you haven't sold me yet. Keel bolts can be made of things other than stainless. Even stainless bolts seem to be holding up well. If the bottom of the boat fails the point is moot anyway. -- Tom. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Jun 10, 3:01 pm, " wrote:
On Jun 10, 7:50 am, RichH wrote: The probably chief cause of keel bolt failure is: they are not removable for inspection. As I said before, just looking at the pictures in the link I think the failure was of the hull bottom (or structural keel of the vessel) and not the keel bolts. Hull failure is not uncommon in hard groundings on lightly built, fin keeled boats but I think that is a separate topic. Stainless steels are 'very' subject to 'crevice corrosion' and fatigue failure, mostly a combination of the two modes of failure. Worse, the maximum stres on a keel boat is 'cantilever stress' ... very hard to predict since the loads and actions are 'variable to unforseen'. The "Received Wisdom" is that stainless is not the best choice for keel bolts because it is subject to crevice corrosion and wasting in an wet, low oxygen environment. Fatigue failure can be engineered around. I haven't looked into it but my guess is that the time to ductility exhaustion of the typical set of ss keel bolts would be on the order of forever and a day. Cantilevers and sheer stress are pretty well understood for bolts and beams. And, in the case of keels where weight isn't generally a concern designers can be, and generally are, very conservative. ... So, keel bolt failure is a functional design failure due to the bolts not being able to be removed and periodically inspected. Kinda Zen statistics, but my feeling is that most keel bolt failures, as opposed to keel failures, are on fairly new racing boats and probably result from over aggressive designs or constructions errors. In any case, keel bolt failure is very rare. Yes, it would be good if the bolts were easy to inspect and yes, stainless isn't the best choice for them, but in practice, the fleet is holding up very well. ... So, from the above it seems that a encapsulated keel with solid lead internal ballast would probably be the 'best'. Well, you haven't sold me yet. Keel bolts can be made of things other than stainless. Even stainless bolts seem to be holding up well. If the bottom of the boat fails the point is moot anyway. -- Tom. In spite of the beliefs of most people here, the Mac 26 really is a much safer boat than most heavily built cruising boats. If one integrates safety over the life of the boat, I think you would find the Mac 26 to be far safer than a heavily built boat with a deep keel. The deep keeled boat may be safer in a certain unusual situation (being out in a hurricane in deep water) but the Mac 26 can more easily avoid such weather by going into a shallow entrance that the deep keeled boat cannot. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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![]() wrote in message ... In spite of the beliefs of most people here, the Mac 26 really is a much safer boat than most heavily built cruising boats. If one integrates safety over the life of the boat, I think you would find the Mac 26 to be far safer than a heavily built boat with a deep keel. The deep keeled boat may be safer in a certain unusual situation (being out in a hurricane in deep water) but the Mac 26 can more easily avoid such weather by going into a shallow entrance that the deep keeled boat cannot. Truer words have rarely been spoken. The Mac 26 is a very safe boat as evidenced by its unparallel safety record. And, the Mac 26 can get to that shallow entrance a lot faster than any sailboat other than perhaps a racing multihull. -- Gregory Hall |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"I haven't looked into it but my guess is that the time to
ductility exhaustion of the typical set of ss keel bolts would be on the order of forever and a day. Cantilevers and sheer stress are pretty well understood for bolts and beams. And, in the case of keels where weight isn't generally a concern designers can be, and generally are, very conservative". Ductility exhaustion? What are you doing drawing wire? Sorry but once 300 series stainless gets loaded above its endurance limit it typicallly only lasts approx 1 million load cycles - doesnt matter if its rigging, keelbolts, chainplates. If the endurance load factor (at about 30kpsi) is exceeded, 1 million cycles is about all you get You bet that cantilever stress is well understood thats why bridges, aircraft wings, etc. dont fall off. That sailboats constantly have to have rigging replaced, on some - keels & rudder shafts, etc. keep falling off ... would tell any prudent engineer/designer that 'something is wrong' in the 'typical design'. |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Jun 10, 1:36 pm, RichH wrote:
.... once 300 series stainless gets loaded above its endurance limit it typicallly only lasts approx 1 million load cycles - doesnt matter if its rigging, keelbolts, chainplates. If the endurance load factor (at about 30kpsi) is exceeded, 1 million cycles is about all you get... At stresses less than that the bolts will essentially never fatigue, right? I'm looking at a worked example of an ABS keel bolt worksheet. Since you're using psi I'm converting to USA units. 10 keel bolts of 0.83" (at the thread root) support a 7,175 lb keel with a cg 2' below the joint. Even assuming half the bolts aren't doing anything the maximum static stress on those bolts are going to be an order of magnitude below their endurance load. Hydrodynamic loads on the keel max out at about the same order. Day in and day out you'll never approach the endurance limit of ABS sized bolts. On top of that your typical designer is going to use the next size up off the shelf rod. As you'd expect with those kind of scantlings keel bolt failure is extremely rare. Fatigue isn't normally an issue. ... That sailboats constantly have to have rigging replaced, on some - keels & rudder shafts, etc. keep falling off ... would tell any prudent engineer/designer that 'something is wrong' in the 'typical design'. Rigging is a different story with very different compromises. Keel failure is so rare that I think each case needs to be looked at individually. There is no evident systemic problem with keel bolts as a class. -- Tom. |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Tom --- simply go back to basic structural engineering basics.
All metal has a service life based on fatigue. Even below the endurance fatigue limit, applied cyclical stress will develop microcracks between the grain structure. Such propagation is minimal but continuously additive to applied cyclical stress. At or above the endurance limit the fatigue become more 'predictable', below the limit the fatigue is 'not so' predictable. The inevitable failure for ALL metals in cyclical stress service is embrittlement and crystaline or fatigue failure. Fatigue failure at scantiling design values with Safety Factor of 4X (typical ocean service) still but rarely happen. Only when the stress design approaches FS=6 does fatigue failure become rare; but rare doesnt exclude some failure. I repeat: The inevitable failure for ALL metals in cyclical stress service is embrittlement and crystaline or fatigue failure ... this WILL eventually happen to rigging, rigging supports and keel bolts on boats. At stresses less than that the bolts will essentially never fatigue, right? *I'm looking at a worked example of an ABS keel bolt worksheet. *Since you're using psi I'm converting to USA units. *10 keel bolts of 0.83" (at the thread root) support a 7,175 lb keel with a cg 2' below the joint. *Even assuming half the bolts aren't doing anything the maximum static stress on those bolts are going to be an order of magnitude below their endurance load. *Hydrodynamic loads on the keel max out at about the same order. *Day in and day out you'll never approach the endurance limit of ABS sized bolts. *On top of that your typical designer is going to use the next size up off the shelf rod. *As you'd expect with those kind of scantlings keel bolt failure is extremely rare. *Fatigue isn't normally an issue. ... *That sailboats constantly have to have rigging replaced, on some - keels & rudder shafts, etc. keep falling off ... would tell any prudent engineer/designer that 'something is wrong' in the 'typical design'. Rigging is a different story with very different compromises. *Keel failure is so rare that I think each case needs to be looked at individually. *There is no evident systemic problem with keel bolts as a class. -- Tom. |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:10:59 -0400, "Gregory Hall"
wrote: And, the Mac 26 can get to that shallow entrance a lot faster than any sailboat other than perhaps a racing multihull. A scows are good for 25, but not in big waves. Casady |
#10
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:10:59 -0400, "Gregory Hall"
wrote: wrote in message ... In spite of the beliefs of most people here, the Mac 26 really is a much safer boat than most heavily built cruising boats. If one integrates safety over the life of the boat, I think you would find the Mac 26 to be far safer than a heavily built boat with a deep keel. The deep keeled boat may be safer in a certain unusual situation (being out in a hurricane in deep water) but the Mac 26 can more easily avoid such weather by going into a shallow entrance that the deep keeled boat cannot. Truer words have rarely been spoken. The Mac 26 is a very safe boat as evidenced by its unparallel safety record. And, the Mac 26 can get to that shallow entrance a lot faster than any sailboat other than perhaps a racing multihull. Good grief. Have either of you ever sailed more than 20 miles offshore ? |
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