Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and
raw water engine cooling systems. The instructions for
cleaning/descaling) the Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12%
solution of muriatic (hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through
the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice,
'cuz urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all
fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on
the discharge (a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a
VERY bad idea, 'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces
inside the tank, in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw
water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the
Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic
(hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz
urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on
the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge
(a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea,
'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank,
in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Peggy,

Pardon the pun, but you really know your ****!

hahahahaaa!!!

Couldn't resist!


{:0}

Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call
for fire proof valves against your years of experience. My solution will be
plastic valves at the plastic holding tanks in deference to your experience
and 316L valves at the hull. This solution should satisfy both. Thanks for
the Muriatic tip. It should have been obvious, but I did not consider scale
build up as an issue.
Steve

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw
water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the
Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic
(hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz
urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on
the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge
(a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea,
'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank,
in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call
for fire proof valves against your years of experience.

If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more
resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best
high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are
bronze "thrones."

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel
hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure
and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the
sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is
that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only
sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to
waste will be plastic.
Steve

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which
call for fire proof valves against your years of experience.

If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more
resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best
high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are
bronze "thrones."

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Hokay...sometimes you just have make compromises, and this seems to be
one of those times.

Peggie



Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a steel
hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve failure
and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic within the
sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The reasoning is
that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater and only
sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously exposed to
waste will be plastic.
Steve

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which
call for fire proof valves against your years of experience.
If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more
resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best
high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are
bronze "thrones."

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/




--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a
steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve
failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic
within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The
reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater
and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously
exposed to waste will be plastic.
Steve


You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's
obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the
consequences of bronze and steel mated together.

Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible
with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel

Wilbur Hubbard

On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message

...

Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a
steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve
failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic
within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The
reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater
and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously
exposed to waste will be plastic.
Steve

You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's
obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the
consequences of bronze and steel mated together.

Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible
with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel

Wilbur Hubbard

I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are
you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is
going to happen,
or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be
available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of.

On Thu, 15 May 2008 20:45:52 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message

...

Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a
steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both valve
failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic
within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise. The
reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with seawater
and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be continuously
exposed to waste will be plastic.
Steve

You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's
obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the
consequences of bronze and steel mated together.

Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible
with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel

Wilbur Hubbard

I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are
you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is
going to happen,
or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be
available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of.

Money is no object to Willie-boy. Nor is manners or good sense.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

wrote in message
...
On May 15, 6:35 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message

...

Peggie,
As I mentioned before, bronze is absolutely out of the question with a
steel hull. They create a huge electrolysis issue which causes both
valve
failure and steel corrosion throughout the hull. I think using plastic
within the sanitary system and 316 at the hull is the best compromise.
The
reasoning is that the stainless will be continuously flushed with
seawater
and only sometimes exposed to waste. The valve which will be
continuously
exposed to waste will be plastic.
Steve

You don't actually expect any woman to understand electrolysis and how it
effects various metals placed side by side in salt water do you? It's
obvious she's clueless by her reply that totally failed to consider the
consequences of bronze and steel mated together.

Have you considered monel? Marvelous stuff! I understand it is compatible
with steel being an alloy nickel and copper with some
iron.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel

Wilbur Hubbard

I am just a little confused by your response here Oh, Great One...are
you suggesting that he re-plate his hull with Monel.,..yea that is
going to happen,
or have custom seacock made of said material...they may be
available..but not off the shelf at any chandelry that I know of.

Monel, or cupro-nickel as it is generically termed, is widely available in
the shipping industry. Surely thru-hulls are available made from this
wonderful substance. And through hulls of 316 SS as the OP seems inclined to
install are inferior to Monel. I've heard of at least one case where the
entire hull of a sailboat was made from cupro-nickel. It will last a
lifetime. And I've read that it has anti-fouling properties such that bottom
paint isn't necessary.

My next blue water cruiser will be made from this noble metal. But it's not
light. So that will necessitate my next hull be in the 120-140 foot range.
But, hey, I can afford the best!

Wilbur Hubbard
Swan 68 starter boat!