On Wed, 14 May 2008 07:54:43 +1000, Herodotus
wrote:

and be sure to add the water to the acid and not the other
way round.

You have that backwards. Water is less dense, and can sit on top while
the heat evolved boils the water and splatters the acid.

Casady

On Tue, 13 May 2008 22:05:10 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Wed, 14 May 2008 07:54:43 +1000, Herodotus
wrote:

and be sure to add the water to the acid and not the other
way round.

You have that backwards. Water is less dense, and can sit on top while
the heat evolved boils the water and splatters the acid.

Casady


Yes I am dumb. Between my brain and the typing something went wrong. I
used to tach science for a few years and it should be burned in my
brain. Thanks for correcting me. It could have caused a nasty accident

cheers
peter

On Tue, 13 May 2008 21:28:14 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Tue, 13 May 2008 12:29:00 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Gregery:

My apologies to Peggie! Hope she mends well and soon.
I cannot imagine the strength required to "squeeze" or flex an 1 1/2"
hose on my boat. The lengths are much too short.

If there's a trick to it, please tell me or better yet come and
demonstrate.
If there is room, you can use your two biggest hammers. If not, get a
couple of five pound lead ingots. Hold one behind the hose and hit
the other side with the other.
They get scale out of the tubes in the biggest boilers by beating on
them with special power tools.

Casady


No! No! The proper technique is to remove the hose, take it to the
jetty and then beat the hose on the dock with a flailing motion.

This accomplishes two things. First the beating loosens the deposits
inside the hose and secondly, the flailing motion causes the deposits
to be ejected from the hose.

There is much discussion about the proper time to accomplish the
beating. Some argue for late at night with a strong wind to disperse
the deposits over as large an area as possible and thus making their
origin difficult to determine. Others state that on Sunday, about
lunch time, is much better timing as it is said to promote interesting
conversations with neighboring boats thus allowing you to meet new
people.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

wrote:
I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea
water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using
Acetic acid. Is this true?
Yes, it's true. Distilled white vinegar will dissolve and then prevent
future buildup of sea water minerals in pumps and hoses...not only in
sanitations systems, but in all raw water intake lines.

Use ONLY distilled white vinegar...it's a lot more acetic than cider or
wine vinegars. Plus, it's distilled from alcohol...cider and wine
vinegars are distilled from fruit juice, which can leave a sticky residue.

If you have a serious buildup, you may want to use a 12% solutions of
muriatic acid to clean it out...white vinegar will work, but it may
require several applications, whereas muriatic acid will work a lot faster.

Once you've cleaned out the system, a cupful--two at the most if the
lines are longer than they should be--once a week, flushed ALL the way
through the system (do NOT leave it sitting in the bowl!) once a week
will prevent it.

Distilled white vinegar is available in any supermarket. If it's not on
the shelf with cider vinegar, it'll be in the cleaning supplies
aisle...'cuz although distilled white vinegar has very limited
application in foods, its primarily a cleaner.

You might want to google "white vinegar" to see all the cleaning jobs it
can do.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...35630&cat=1304

On Tue, 13 May 2008 20:20:37 -0500, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Distilled white vinegar is available in any supermarket. If it's not on
the shelf with cider vinegar, it'll be in the cleaning supplies
aisle...'cuz although distilled white vinegar has very limited
application in foods, its primarily a cleaner.

You might want to google "white vinegar" to see all the cleaning jobs it
can do.

It will evaporate, leaving no residue on things like windows and
mirrors, and it eats soap scum on shower walls. It's also cheap.
The muratic acid mentioned will remove rust stains from plumbing
fixtures, and vinegar won't. However hydrochloric [muratic] acid fumes
are highly corrosive.

Casady

Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?
Steve
PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
t...
wrote:
I have heard that you can clean the build up that occurs from sea
water flushing in the 1 1/2" discharge hoses from the heads using
Acetic acid. Is this true?
Yes, it's true. Distilled white vinegar will dissolve and then prevent
future buildup of sea water minerals in pumps and hoses...not only in
sanitations systems, but in all raw water intake lines.

Use ONLY distilled white vinegar...it's a lot more acetic than cider or
wine vinegars. Plus, it's distilled from alcohol...cider and wine vinegars
are distilled from fruit juice, which can leave a sticky residue.

If you have a serious buildup, you may want to use a 12% solutions of
muriatic acid to clean it out...white vinegar will work, but it may
require several applications, whereas muriatic acid will work a lot
faster.

Once you've cleaned out the system, a cupful--two at the most if the lines
are longer than they should be--once a week, flushed ALL the way through
the system (do NOT leave it sitting in the bowl!) once a week will prevent
it.

Distilled white vinegar is available in any supermarket. If it's not on
the shelf with cider vinegar, it'll be in the cleaning supplies
aisle...'cuz although distilled white vinegar has very limited application
in foods, its primarily a cleaner.

You might want to google "white vinegar" to see all the cleaning jobs it
can do.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...35630&cat=1304

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and
raw water engine cooling systems. The instructions for
cleaning/descaling) the Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12%
solution of muriatic (hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through
the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice,
'cuz urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all
fittings on the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on
the discharge (a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a
VERY bad idea, 'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces
inside the tank, in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw
water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the
Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic
(hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz
urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on
the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge
(a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea,
'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank,
in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Peggy,

Pardon the pun, but you really know your ****!

hahahahaaa!!!

Couldn't resist!


{:0}

Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call
for fire proof valves against your years of experience. My solution will be
plastic valves at the plastic holding tanks in deference to your experience
and 316L valves at the hull. This solution should satisfy both. Thanks for
the Muriatic tip. It should have been obvious, but I did not consider scale
build up as an issue.
Steve

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
Won't the hydrochloric acid eat the porcelain bowl?

Nope. Won't eat rubber either. In fact, owners and pros have used it for
decades to clean sea water minerals out of raw water intake hoses and raw
water engine cooling systems. The instructions for cleaning/descaling) the
Lectra/San electrode pack also call for a 12% solution of muriatic
(hydochloric) acid, flushed into the unit through the toilet.

PS Just received all the stainless pipe fittings and flanges for the
plumbing yesterday from Texas yesterday.

SS fittings in the sanitation system plumbing??? Not a good choice, 'cuz
urine will corrode 'em. At least one trawler mfr who puts all fittings on
the top of the tank, with a pickup tube inside the tank on the discharge
(a great idea) used stainless fittings and pickup tubes--a VERY bad idea,
'cuz the tubes are corroding, even falling off in pieces inside the tank,
in just a few years.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/

Steve Lusardi wrote:
Peggie,
The dilemma is the Lloyds certification for thru hull fittings, which call
for fire proof valves against your years of experience.

If you must use metal for your thru-hulls, use bronze. It's a lot more
resistant to urine than SS...almost bullet proof. In fact, the best
high-end manual marine toilets--Blake, W-C Skipper, Groco K etc--are
bronze "thrones."

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/boat_odors/