Hello again all,

Today's issue:
--------------
I have a spare anchor that came with the boat that I'd like to return to
active standby and I noted quite a bit of rust on it after finally
getting around to pulling it out. My thought was to remove the rust and
have it re-galvanized at some local electroplating shop.

I took a wire brush to it thinking I might be able to determine what I
was getting myself into and found that as I brushed, more oxidized
galvanization would come off revealing new rust. Thinking I might assess
how far moisture had traveled under this layer of galvanizing I move to a
rust-free point as far from any existing rust as possible and knocked
some off. Of course, it uncovered a huge patch of ancient rust.

Questions:
----------
1) Is my intent from the outset bogus? Do people re-galvanize anchors? Do
they do it at their local electroplating shop? Is there some marine
specification for galvanizing?

2) Is it possible this anchor was somehow "dipped" at some point and some
kind of coating put over an already rusty anchor?

3) Is it possible the entire anchor could rust under the
last/original/whenever coating that was put on it as soon as it started
to fail? Iow, it's counterintuitive, but if I nick the galvanizing (or
whatever material protects anchors) off the tip of a blade should I
expect for the oxidation to travel under the coating through the entirety
of the anchor?

4) What do I do now?


As always, thanks to all who can help! -jeffrey

4) What do I do now?

Unless it's just a monster anchor, why screw around with it? You'll spend the
better part of a day trying to clean it up,
some money to regalvanize it, when for less than a whole bunch of dough you can
get new and in good condition.

Or....
Have a used marine store in your area?
We have a few out here, and it isn't unusual to see medium size galv. anchors
for sale at about $1 a pound.

Gould is right, unless it's big plow or Bruce type it's hardly worth the
effort.. I wouldn't even bother with one of those stamped 'Danforth type'.

If you just want to keep it for a back up, have it sand blasted and if there
is still enough metal left, just paint it with a rust inhibitor paint.

BTW. Galvanizing is not electroplating.. A proper galvanizing job is "hot
dipped".. It involves dipping in several chemical baths and then into motten
zinc. Electropated item seldom last more than one season on a boat around
salt water, then they start bleeding rust..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Gould is right, unless it's big plow or Bruce type it's hardly worth the
effort.. I wouldn't even bother with one of those stamped 'Danforth type'.

If you just want to keep it for a back up, have it sand blasted and if there
is still enough metal left, just paint it with a rust inhibitor paint.

BTW. Galvanizing is not electroplating.. A proper galvanizing job is "hot
dipped".. It involves dipping in several chemical baths and then into motten
zinc. Electropated item seldom last more than one season on a boat around
salt water, then they start bleeding rust..


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Have just gone thru this with 6 anchors - only 2 were mine - the rest
from nearby boats. I was in Bellingham WA at the time - nearest
re-galv place was Ballard (Seattle) - Ace ??.

1. Do not spray paint anything (eg paint) on an anchor. The re-galv
process doesn't work over paint and the process doesn't remove it - so
it needs to be sand blasted off before re-galv - this costs more than
the re-galv does.

2. Re-galv is priced by the pound of material - was about $0.45 per
pound if I remember right. Then there was a min charge - maybe $50. -
don't remember but we were way over it.

3. Some anchors - eg fake CQRs - are really hollow & lead filled for
weight and the co will drill holes in the body to see - because the
lead/hollow can have water intrusion which will steam explode upon
immersion - serious injuries. If it's lead they will melt it out -
leaving you with a lighter anchor. They suggested tapping the hole for
a pipe plug and filling the cavity with lead shot (shotgun shell
stuff) to regain some of the weight. Real CQRs are solid - but they
drill them all to check.

4. My 75 lb and 65 lb genuine CQR anchors would cost $1500?? to buy
new - cost about $100 to get a HD re-galv job.




On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 00:42:02 GMT, "Jeffrey P. Vasquez"
wrote:

Hello again all,

Today's issue:
--------------
I have a spare anchor that came with the boat that I'd like to return to
active standby and I noted quite a bit of rust on it after finally
getting around to pulling it out. My thought was to remove the rust and
have it re-galvanized at some local electroplating shop.

I took a wire brush to it thinking I might be able to determine what I
was getting myself into and found that as I brushed, more oxidized
galvanization would come off revealing new rust. Thinking I might assess
how far moisture had traveled under this layer of galvanizing I move to a
rust-free point as far from any existing rust as possible and knocked
some off. Of course, it uncovered a huge patch of ancient rust.

Questions:
----------
1) Is my intent from the outset bogus? Do people re-galvanize anchors? Do
they do it at their local electroplating shop? Is there some marine
specification for galvanizing?

2) Is it possible this anchor was somehow "dipped" at some point and some
kind of coating put over an already rusty anchor?

3) Is it possible the entire anchor could rust under the
last/original/whenever coating that was put on it as soon as it started
to fail? Iow, it's counterintuitive, but if I nick the galvanizing (or
whatever material protects anchors) off the tip of a blade should I
expect for the oxidation to travel under the coating through the entirety
of the anchor?

4) What do I do now?


As always, thanks to all who can help! -jeffrey

alfie wrote:
Have just gone thru this with 6 anchors
[...snip...]

Great info!

Thank you so much!

alfie wrote:
Have just gone thru this with 6 anchors
[...snip...]

Great info!

Thank you so much!

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 00:42:02 GMT, "Jeffrey P. Vasquez"
wrote:

Hello again all,

Today's issue:
--------------
I have a spare anchor that came with the boat that I'd like to return to
active standby and I noted quite a bit of rust on it after finally
getting around to pulling it out. My thought was to remove the rust and
have it re-galvanized at some local electroplating shop.

I took a wire brush to it thinking I might be able to determine what I
was getting myself into and found that as I brushed, more oxidized
galvanization would come off revealing new rust. Thinking I might assess
how far moisture had traveled under this layer of galvanizing I move to a
rust-free point as far from any existing rust as possible and knocked
some off. Of course, it uncovered a huge patch of ancient rust.

Questions:
----------
1) Is my intent from the outset bogus? Do people re-galvanize anchors? Do
they do it at their local electroplating shop? Is there some marine
specification for galvanizing?

2) Is it possible this anchor was somehow "dipped" at some point and some
kind of coating put over an already rusty anchor?

3) Is it possible the entire anchor could rust under the
last/original/whenever coating that was put on it as soon as it started
to fail? Iow, it's counterintuitive, but if I nick the galvanizing (or
whatever material protects anchors) off the tip of a blade should I
expect for the oxidation to travel under the coating through the entirety
of the anchor?

4) What do I do now?

It sounds like "get rid of it." from your description. A friend of
mine had a Cal 2-30 with a Danforth main anchor and a plow (looked
like CQR, but I don't know who made it) as secondary. After owning the
boat for a few seasons, he took out the plow and found it was nothing
but rust.

Fortunately he didn't really need it right then. :-(



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a

"Happy is he that taketh thy little ones and dasheth them upon the stones." __Psalm 137

4) What do I do now?

Unless it's just a monster anchor, why screw around with it? You'll spend the
better part of a day trying to clean it up,
some money to regalvanize it, when for less than a whole bunch of dough you can
get new and in good condition.

Or....
Have a used marine store in your area?
We have a few out here, and it isn't unusual to see medium size galv. anchors
for sale at about $1 a pound.

Have just gone thru this with 6 anchors - only 2 were mine - the rest
from nearby boats. I was in Bellingham WA at the time - nearest
re-galv place was Ballard (Seattle) - Ace ??.

1. Do not spray paint anything (eg paint) on an anchor. The re-galv
process doesn't work over paint and the process doesn't remove it - so
it needs to be sand blasted off before re-galv - this costs more than
the re-galv does.

2. Re-galv is priced by the pound of material - was about $0.45 per
pound if I remember right. Then there was a min charge - maybe $50. -
don't remember but we were way over it.

3. Some anchors - eg fake CQRs - are really hollow & lead filled for
weight and the co will drill holes in the body to see - because the
lead/hollow can have water intrusion which will steam explode upon
immersion - serious injuries. If it's lead they will melt it out -
leaving you with a lighter anchor. They suggested tapping the hole for
a pipe plug and filling the cavity with lead shot (shotgun shell
stuff) to regain some of the weight. Real CQRs are solid - but they
drill them all to check.

4. My 75 lb and 65 lb genuine CQR anchors would cost $1500?? to buy
new - cost about $100 to get a HD re-galv job.




On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 00:42:02 GMT, "Jeffrey P. Vasquez"
wrote:

Hello again all,

Today's issue:
--------------
I have a spare anchor that came with the boat that I'd like to return to
active standby and I noted quite a bit of rust on it after finally
getting around to pulling it out. My thought was to remove the rust and
have it re-galvanized at some local electroplating shop.

I took a wire brush to it thinking I might be able to determine what I
was getting myself into and found that as I brushed, more oxidized
galvanization would come off revealing new rust. Thinking I might assess
how far moisture had traveled under this layer of galvanizing I move to a
rust-free point as far from any existing rust as possible and knocked
some off. Of course, it uncovered a huge patch of ancient rust.

Questions:
----------
1) Is my intent from the outset bogus? Do people re-galvanize anchors? Do
they do it at their local electroplating shop? Is there some marine
specification for galvanizing?

2) Is it possible this anchor was somehow "dipped" at some point and some
kind of coating put over an already rusty anchor?

3) Is it possible the entire anchor could rust under the
last/original/whenever coating that was put on it as soon as it started
to fail? Iow, it's counterintuitive, but if I nick the galvanizing (or
whatever material protects anchors) off the tip of a blade should I
expect for the oxidation to travel under the coating through the entirety
of the anchor?

4) What do I do now?


As always, thanks to all who can help! -jeffrey