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#1
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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Just got an email from the maintenance crew who looked at the engine
situation.... interestingly, we did check the coolant level, which was fine. So, whomever said the impeller, was dead on... (edited slightly) The engine lost coolant (which was the consequence of an overheat situation earlier in the month) and was running hot (in the 185-190+ deg range), which was enough to activate the over-heat alarm and to still run "as if the alarm was a false negative." The raw-water cooling was working, but the blades of the impeller had been deformed causing the quantity of cooling water running through the heat-exchanger to be insufficient to cool the engine to within it's operating temperature range, thus causing the alarm. We will routinely replace raw water impellers in all overheating situation in the future, as well as positively check the flow of raw water cooling throughout the complete system: through-hull to mixing elbow. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
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#2
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 11:23:06 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote: We will routinely replace raw water impellers in all overheating situation in the future, as well as positively check the flow of raw water cooling throughout the complete system: through-hull to mixing elbow. Based on my experience with the small Yanmar in my genset, I'd recommend being even more proactive than that. The impellers seem to self destruct after about 200 hours so it's better to replace them on a periodic basis before that happens. One nice feature on my genset is a temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. It trips as soon as cooling water flow starts to slow down. Supposedly you can buy the sensors at Home Depot for minimal $$$s and attach them with hose clamps. |
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#3
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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"Wayne.B" wrote in message
... On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 11:23:06 -0800, "Capt. JG" wrote: We will routinely replace raw water impellers in all overheating situation in the future, as well as positively check the flow of raw water cooling throughout the complete system: through-hull to mixing elbow. Based on my experience with the small Yanmar in my genset, I'd recommend being even more proactive than that. The impellers seem to self destruct after about 200 hours so it's better to replace them on a periodic basis before that happens. One nice feature on my genset is a temperature sensor on the exhaust elbow. It trips as soon as cooling water flow starts to slow down. Supposedly you can buy the sensors at Home Depot for minimal $$$s and attach them with hose clamps. Fortunately, I'm not the one responsible for the engines or boats for that matter. I will take the advice under advisement for mine, however. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
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#4
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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"Capt. JG" wrote in message ... Just got an email from the maintenance crew who looked at the engine situation.... interestingly, we did check the coolant level, which was fine. So, whomever said the impeller, was dead on... (edited slightly) The engine lost coolant (which was the consequence of an overheat situation earlier in the month) and was running hot (in the 185-190+ deg range), which was enough to activate the over-heat alarm and to still run "as if the alarm was a false negative." The raw-water cooling was working, but the blades of the impeller had been deformed causing the quantity of cooling water running through the heat-exchanger to be insufficient to cool the engine to within it's operating temperature range, thus causing the alarm. We will routinely replace raw water impellers in all overheating situation in the future, as well as positively check the flow of raw water cooling throughout the complete system: through-hull to mixing elbow. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com Been there, seen that. The problem is that as the impellers age the lobes get stiff and do not spring back into position quickly enough after passing the hump that squeezes the water along its way. It is during this 'spring-back' period that the impeller lobe is supposed to seal itself against the casing and draw water into the gap between the impellers. When spring-back is too slow the pump throughput gradually reduces due to poor sealing and/or insufficient water drawn into the gaps between lobes.. |
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