I have to refinish our galley countertops. These are surfaced
with fairly thick teak veneer (in good shape) which has been
previously finished with varnish. I would like to keep the
current teak (rather than replace with formica or corian). I also
want to keep the clear finish, but the varnish hasn't held up
well and I would like to consider other options. I'm looking for
something that holds up well in a marine environment, which can
handle the day-to-day bumps, drops, splashes, and spills, and
which will last for as long as possible. I would also like
something that can be removed without destroying the teak when it
(inevitably) needs to be refinished - which is a concern I have
about epoxy products. I'm hoping that someone out there has done
a project like this and might be willing to share their experience.

Thanks

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

"Cindy Ballreich" writes:

I have to refinish our galley countertops. These are surfaced
with fairly thick teak veneer (in good shape) which has been
previously finished with varnish. I would like to keep the
current teak (rather than replace with formica or corian). I also
want to keep the clear finish, but the varnish hasn't held up
well and I would like to consider other options. I'm looking for
something that holds up well in a marine environment, which can
handle the day-to-day bumps, drops, splashes, and spills, and
which will last for as long as possible. I would also like
something that can be removed without destroying the teak when it
(inevitably) needs to be refinished - which is a concern I have
about epoxy products. I'm hoping that someone out there has done
a project like this and might be willing to share their experience.

I suspect you are going to have trouble accomplishing your goal.

Suggest you consider the following:

Seal the teak with at least 3-4 coats of epoxy, sanding smooth between coats
and allowing at least 24-48 hours between coats.

You now have protected the teak, BUT, you must protect the epoxy from UV
damage.

Check for a polyurethane product with UV inhibitors and FDA approval for
food service.

You may get lucky, but I suspect you have a real challenge ahead of you.

BTW, might consider 1/2" Corian on top of that teak veneer.

Good luck.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

"Cindy Ballreich" writes:

I have to refinish our galley countertops. These are surfaced
with fairly thick teak veneer (in good shape) which has been
previously finished with varnish. I would like to keep the
current teak (rather than replace with formica or corian). I also
want to keep the clear finish, but the varnish hasn't held up
well and I would like to consider other options. I'm looking for
something that holds up well in a marine environment, which can
handle the day-to-day bumps, drops, splashes, and spills, and
which will last for as long as possible. I would also like
something that can be removed without destroying the teak when it
(inevitably) needs to be refinished - which is a concern I have
about epoxy products. I'm hoping that someone out there has done
a project like this and might be willing to share their experience.

I suspect you are going to have trouble accomplishing your goal.

Suggest you consider the following:

Seal the teak with at least 3-4 coats of epoxy, sanding smooth between coats
and allowing at least 24-48 hours between coats.

You now have protected the teak, BUT, you must protect the epoxy from UV
damage.

Check for a polyurethane product with UV inhibitors and FDA approval for
food service.

You may get lucky, but I suspect you have a real challenge ahead of you.

BTW, might consider 1/2" Corian on top of that teak veneer.

Good luck.


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

Not sure what you mean by "varnish has not held up well". If it has
given you good service for 5 years or more, thats not a bad track record
for a wood kitchen counter top finished bright. Sand out any cracks and
peals and feather any edges, then give it another 4 or 5 thin coats.
Doesn't seem like it would be too much work once every 5 years or so.
Less work if you mend it more regularly

I suspect the counters get wet, but how wet how often depends on your
life style. If they're normally dry, and you can live with some slight
stains, you could remove the seal coat (sand lightly) and just slosh
furniture oil over the surface once a month. Some people like the look
_and_ the small regular maintenance, and the teak is pretty tough stuff
anyway; it doesn't really need protection inside, except to make it
easier to clean and eliminate some stains.

Bars (as in pubs) used varnish for many years and now use a thick layer
of epoxy plastic - but I don't much like the glass-like look of it.
However, I'm not sure Lew is correct about expoxy needing UV protection
indoors, and it does give one real hard finish. If you want extra hard,
I guess you could clean up the wood then put a layer of fiberglass cloth
into epoxy, let it setup, then smooth-coat it with more epoxy. That
would protect against most hard knocks; the fiberglass quite literally
vanishes, disappears - it becomes completely transparent and invisible.

However none of these finishes is proof against heated cookware straight
off the stove or sharp knives. If that's your issue, you need to think
tile or corian or something like that.

Rufus


Cindy Ballreich wrote:

I have to refinish our galley countertops. These are surfaced with
fairly thick teak veneer (in good shape) which has been previously

Not sure what you mean by "varnish has not held up well". If it has
given you good service for 5 years or more, thats not a bad track record
for a wood kitchen counter top finished bright. Sand out any cracks and
peals and feather any edges, then give it another 4 or 5 thin coats.
Doesn't seem like it would be too much work once every 5 years or so.
Less work if you mend it more regularly

I suspect the counters get wet, but how wet how often depends on your
life style. If they're normally dry, and you can live with some slight
stains, you could remove the seal coat (sand lightly) and just slosh
furniture oil over the surface once a month. Some people like the look
_and_ the small regular maintenance, and the teak is pretty tough stuff
anyway; it doesn't really need protection inside, except to make it
easier to clean and eliminate some stains.

Bars (as in pubs) used varnish for many years and now use a thick layer
of epoxy plastic - but I don't much like the glass-like look of it.
However, I'm not sure Lew is correct about expoxy needing UV protection
indoors, and it does give one real hard finish. If you want extra hard,
I guess you could clean up the wood then put a layer of fiberglass cloth
into epoxy, let it setup, then smooth-coat it with more epoxy. That
would protect against most hard knocks; the fiberglass quite literally
vanishes, disappears - it becomes completely transparent and invisible.

However none of these finishes is proof against heated cookware straight
off the stove or sharp knives. If that's your issue, you need to think
tile or corian or something like that.

Rufus


Cindy Ballreich wrote:

I have to refinish our galley countertops. These are surfaced with
fairly thick teak veneer (in good shape) which has been previously

In article ,
Cindy Ballreich wrote:

I have to refinish our galley countertops. These are surfaced
with fairly thick teak veneer (in good shape) which has been
previously finished with varnish. I would like to keep the
current teak (rather than replace with formica or corian). I also
want to keep the clear finish, but the varnish hasn't held up
well and I would like to consider other options. I'm looking for
something that holds up well in a marine environment, which can
handle the day-to-day bumps, drops, splashes, and spills, and
which will last for as long as possible. I would also like
something that can be removed without destroying the teak when it
(inevitably) needs to be refinished - which is a concern I have
about epoxy products. I'm hoping that someone out there has done
a project like this and might be willing to share their experience.

Thanks

Cindy

At home, I've had good luck with floor finishes, particularly the stuff
that is supposed to be good for bowling alleys. Sorry that I can't
remember the name; Varithane? (The projects have survived 20 years, the
cans long since gone.) NASTY stuff to apply, but it takes a licking.

I overcoated that with acrylic as the tough coating was sensitive to
alcohol and these were "party" surfaces. After years under the window
and many adult beverage and other spills, it's still bright and shiny.

I didn't go that far with our boat a decade ago. I simply used a couple
of coats of acrylic varnish. I should have refinished a few trim pieces
by now, but the flat portions are still in good enough shape for us. (I
don't go for a glass flat surface.)

Whatever you use, the key is probably many coats and lightly sanding &
refinishing when it starts showing wear.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

In article ,
Cindy Ballreich wrote:

I have to refinish our galley countertops. These are surfaced
with fairly thick teak veneer (in good shape) which has been
previously finished with varnish. I would like to keep the
current teak (rather than replace with formica or corian). I also
want to keep the clear finish, but the varnish hasn't held up
well and I would like to consider other options. I'm looking for
something that holds up well in a marine environment, which can
handle the day-to-day bumps, drops, splashes, and spills, and
which will last for as long as possible. I would also like
something that can be removed without destroying the teak when it
(inevitably) needs to be refinished - which is a concern I have
about epoxy products. I'm hoping that someone out there has done
a project like this and might be willing to share their experience.

Thanks

Cindy

At home, I've had good luck with floor finishes, particularly the stuff
that is supposed to be good for bowling alleys. Sorry that I can't
remember the name; Varithane? (The projects have survived 20 years, the
cans long since gone.) NASTY stuff to apply, but it takes a licking.

I overcoated that with acrylic as the tough coating was sensitive to
alcohol and these were "party" surfaces. After years under the window
and many adult beverage and other spills, it's still bright and shiny.

I didn't go that far with our boat a decade ago. I simply used a couple
of coats of acrylic varnish. I should have refinished a few trim pieces
by now, but the flat portions are still in good enough shape for us. (I
don't go for a glass flat surface.)

Whatever you use, the key is probably many coats and lightly sanding &
refinishing when it starts showing wear.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Subject: refinishing counter tops
From: Cindy Ballreich

I'm looking for
something that holds up well in a marine environment, which can
handle the day-to-day bumps, drops, splashes, and spills, and
which will last for as long as possible.
I would also like
something that can be removed without destroying the teak when it
(inevitably) needs to be refinished - which is a concern I have
about epoxy products.

I have been using one part interior grade urathanes for all my interior teak
work for years and years now. Including floors.
They hold up very well, are easy to work with and you can apply several coats
in a day without sanding between coats.
I like the flat, statin or semi-gloss finishes for interior wood.
I have use Zip, Minwax, Carver-Tripp, Varathane etc. all with great results.
Most come in spray cans as well. Which them easy to use for pieces you can take
off the boat.

I see some have recommended epoxy coating. That would work. But epoxy is much
harder to sand and other than perhaps use on a floor, is over kill for what you
want to do.
And your concerns about how hard it would be to remove are well founded.

Capt. Bill

Subject: refinishing counter tops
From: Cindy Ballreich

I'm looking for
something that holds up well in a marine environment, which can
handle the day-to-day bumps, drops, splashes, and spills, and
which will last for as long as possible.
I would also like
something that can be removed without destroying the teak when it
(inevitably) needs to be refinished - which is a concern I have
about epoxy products.

I have been using one part interior grade urathanes for all my interior teak
work for years and years now. Including floors.
They hold up very well, are easy to work with and you can apply several coats
in a day without sanding between coats.
I like the flat, statin or semi-gloss finishes for interior wood.
I have use Zip, Minwax, Carver-Tripp, Varathane etc. all with great results.
Most come in spray cans as well. Which them easy to use for pieces you can take
off the boat.

I see some have recommended epoxy coating. That would work. But epoxy is much
harder to sand and other than perhaps use on a floor, is over kill for what you
want to do.
And your concerns about how hard it would be to remove are well founded.

Capt. Bill