http://tinyurl.com/yr7jny

I doubled my distiller capacity this morning from a find in a local
thrift shop I frequent. This model sells at Sears for $99, on sale if
you'd like a great distiller at a good price. I paid $9 for it with the
usual broken boiler seal.

The seals fail because they are made of linear seal material and
Waterwise, the actual manufacturer, cuts the material TOO SHORT every
time, then superglues the ends together to form what SHOULD have been an
O-ring, 1/4" in thickness around the seal.

My solution costs, of course, nearly nothing. 1/4" latex hose from Home
Depot, a lifetime supply of seals it's so long, is a couple of bucks and
when cut to the proper length, I use polyester 1/4" water hose made for
your freezer's ice maker to make a 1" interconnecting nipple to put the
ends together making the latex hose airtight and full of air. When the
heat comes up on the boiler, the pressure inside the hose, of course,
increases, forming a very tight, steam-proof seal in the stainless steel
cover's groove. Nothing escapes, even after 2 years of service, in my
other Waterwise distiller, a better model than this with a clock-timer
and computer which tracks the carbon filter hours. The original seal is
long forgotten because Sears wanted $16 for a tiny length of door seal,
last time I checked a few years ago. My seal works much better, once the
hose gets hot a few times so it conforms to the groove and stops binding
with the pot. The longer it's used, the better it works.

Sears' price of $99 is VERY much more reasonable than Waterwise wants at
$469.00 for the one with the digital control in it! Sears must be
closing them out as they didn't sell well over $100. They didn't really
"sell" them, they stocked them with the chinzy carbon filters.

This stainless steel distill WILL turn seawater into distilled water at
about 2.8ppm total dissolved solids. I've tried it with mine, just for
the hell of it. Hell, creek or lake water leaves LESS residue in the pot
than Charleston city water! Of course, seawater cakes the boiler with
solid salt after you boil the water off it, but it washes right off the
stainless steel this boiler is made from with a light plastic brush.
It'll make 4 gallons per day if you have shore power or a 2KW+ genset
running continuously.

Instead of buying the overly-expensive carbon filters that go in the top
of the carafes on both my distillers, I buy coffee filter paper made for
old-fashioned percolators that are just flat sheets that fold up around
the coffee with holes in them for the tube. I fold at these holes and
push into the carafe's filter holder, fill with activated carbon from
WalMart's fish tank department (16 oz is $3, a lifetime supply), and fold
the paper neatly over it to seal the carbon granules inside while I put
it in the cover, upside down pushing up until it clicks. Works great,
change it every 100 gallons or when the water starts tasting slightly
metallic, indicating the carbon has loaded up with benzene, which
distillers also distill out of the water.

An overall good day at the thrift shop. The other day I bought a Netgear
MR814 v3 4-port + wireless router for $4 with the Netgear wall wart, no
book. Luckily, thrift shop employees aren't well versed in data network
gear...(c; It sells for $99, too!

Larry
--
You don't HAVE to drink those exotic bugs and the swampwater from the
docks, you know. This distiller's output water is simply
delicious...even from seawater!

What is the motivation to use a distiller if you have a city water
supply?

Also, is this unit really an option instead of a water-maker for
anchored sail-boats away from city water?
How does it compare at 4 gallons for 500 watts X 24 hours compared to
a water-maker?

Or is it really just for cleaning up the fresh water from your tank
before ingesting?

-Koos.

On Sep 5, 1:32 pm, Larry wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/yr7jny

I doubled my distiller capacity this morning from a find in a local
thrift shop I frequent. This model sells at Sears for $99, on sale if
you'd like a great distiller at a good price. I paid $9 for it with the
usual broken boiler seal.

brought forth on stone tablets:
What is the motivation to use a distiller if you have a city water
supply?

Also, is this unit really an option instead of a water-maker for
anchored sail-boats away from city water?
How does it compare at 4 gallons for 500 watts X 24 hours compared to
a water-maker?

Or is it really just for cleaning up the fresh water from your tank
before ingesting?

-Koos.

On Sep 5, 1:32 pm, Larry wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/yr7jny

I doubled my distiller capacity this morning from a find in a local
thrift shop I frequent. This model sells at Sears for $99, on sale if
you'd like a great distiller at a good price. I paid $9 for it with the
usual broken boiler seal.




The reverse osmosis water maker (admittedly not a new one) on my boat
makes about 1 gph using 5 amps at 12V, so this is about 60 WH/gal.

The one you bought is using 500 watts for 24 hours/4 gallons which is
3000 WH/gal. It uses 50 times more energy.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

....
The reverse osmosis water maker (admittedly not a new one) on my boat
makes about 1 gph using 5 amps at 12V, so this is about 60 WH/gal.
....

My Spectra makes 8 gph at 8 amps. That makes R/O a full order a
magnitude more efficient in energy terms than the distiller. Of
course, the price of the first gallon of purified water is ~$100 for
the distiller and ~$5k for the Spectra at retail...

-- Tom.

wrote in news:1189028886.744618.98920
@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:

What is the motivation to use a distiller if you have a city water
supply?

My personal motivation is to stop the KIDNEY STONES! Charleston's
lakewater/riverwater public water supply is full of elemental dissolved
calcium, enough to make stalactites I think. The whole inside of my
distillers are coated with it, like concrete. It takes some exotic acid
to clean it out. If you've never had a kidney stone pass through the
plumbing, you cannot imagine the PAIN it causes.

My other motivation came after seeing what the distiller DIDN'T distill,
left concentrated in the bottom of its boiler! Lately, in the last
couple of months, the major residue looks like PLUFF MUD, the only way I
can describe it. Water bureaucrats don't want to talk about it, so I
found some public health bureaucrats at DHEC (Department of Health and
Environmental Control) who were much more interested...but may be afraid
to clash with the other bureaucrats. A coverup seems to be in the
making. If you leave a hose on the dock at any marina, the INSIDE of it
turns heavily GREEN with the algae load in the city water in a day!
NOONE leaves a water hose hooked to faucets. This can't be good for
anyone, especially growing children...which makes this more interesting.

Take a gallon of my home made water and sit it in the sun for a month.
NOTHING grows because NOTHING is in my drinking water....including the
flourides and chlorides the government is using to retard the population
growth. Did you know that water departments add chemicals to your
drinking water to REDUCE THE COPPER AND LEAD TEST RESULTS in the
water...instead of REPLACING the copper and lead pipes? I can't even
pronounce it. I'm sure as hell not going to INGEST it if I can stop it.
I try not to eat or drink anything I cannot pronounce or anything "they"
won't tell me what it is for. It has served me well, so far in life.

Why drink sewage when pure water is so simple to make and so cheap, about
25c/gallon at my awful electric rates. Even my parrots love it and have
never gotten sick in 25 years.


Also, is this unit really an option instead of a water-maker for
anchored sail-boats away from city water?
How does it compare at 4 gallons for 500 watts X 24 hours compared to
a water-maker?

The new unit I paid $9 for is a countertop unit that makes 1 gallon at a
time. I'm not sure it would survive long-term exposure to boiling off
seawater. It draws 1350 watts for about 2.5 hours to distill a gallon.
The book says 4 gallons per day. It never suffers from bacterial
breakdown behind an RO barrier contaminating its output.

What's way too bad on power boats is all that waste heat that COULD be
used to distill seawater into pure drinking water just goes up the stack,
or into the seawater cooling. This is CRAZY! All that wasted fuel could
be put to much better use BOILING SEAWATER in an evaporator, like the
Navy uses on ships but on a much smaller scale. We have coolants in
fresh water cooling systems that boil at much higher temperatures than
seawater. We could use other liquids that wouldn't eat the water jacket
but operate at, say, 250-300F in the water jackets, safely, then BOIL
SEAWATER INTO STEAM so we could use more seawater in a steam condensor to
come out with pure distilled fresh water to use in the
powerboat...recovering a useful product from the awful waste heat of the
internal combustion engine....instead of just dumping all that money
overboard. One interesting coolant comes to mind that costs
nothing....USED TRANSMISSION FLUID. Transmission fluid cooling in a
system lines would be as clean 20 years from now as they started...just
like the metal inside the transmission...PRESERVED! Transmission fluid
boils at some godawful high temperature, it's a coolant, already in the
transmission and torque converters. So, instead of dumping the
transmission fluid in the landfill after the engine has used it, why not
fill the fresh water cooling system with it?? The diesel runs
hotter....something diesels REALLY LOVE!....but not hot enough to destroy
the engine. Cooling with transmission fluid doesn't destroy rubber
transmission oil lines, preserves metals, etc., right? Not rocket
science. Transmissions are all oil cooled at much higher than 212F, too.
Transmission oil, used, is a free waste product. No need to buy coolant
that will not freeze. Why don't cars use it? Money for Moguls?

You can blame all this on my diesel vehicles running on free oil from
Chinese restaurants. It has made me think of other waste products that
could be useful to solve problems, not to mention recycle waste that's
drowning us.


Or is it really just for cleaning up the fresh water from your tank
before ingesting?


If you cleaned your tanks, sparkling clean, then poured filthy city water
into them full of crap and bugs and chemicals. What's the point of
cleaning them in the first place?


Larry
--
Wait until you taste a good coffee brewed with pure, not contaminated,
water....(c; I recommend a Lion brand of Kona from the slopes in Hawaii.

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 18:14:37 +0000, Larry wrote:

wrote in news:1189028886.744618.98920
:

What is the motivation to use a distiller if you have a city water
supply?

My personal motivation is to stop the KIDNEY STONES! Charleston's
lakewater/riverwater public water supply is full of elemental dissolved
calcium, enough to make stalactites I think. The whole inside of my
distillers are coated with it, like concrete. It takes some exotic acid
to clean it out. If you've never had a kidney stone pass through the
plumbing, you cannot imagine the PAIN it causes.

What's the cost of some common bottled water? Never drink it, but
maybe some brands are low in minerals.
My other motivation came after seeing what the distiller DIDN'T distill,
left concentrated in the bottom of its boiler! Lately, in the last
couple of months, the major residue looks like PLUFF MUD, the only way I
can describe it.

Nice description. I get it.

Why drink sewage when pure water is so simple to make and so cheap, about
25c/gallon at my awful electric rates. Even my parrots love it and have
never gotten sick in 25 years.

That's probably cheaper than store-bought. Do your parrots talk?
What do they actually *say* about that water?
BTW, I passed through Gila Bend, Arizona once. The cold water there
is about 120 F, and thick with minerals. I was in a grocery eyeing
the bottled water, but hate buying water. I asked the cashier if the
city water was safe, and she said "I've been drinking it 50 years, and
I'm doing just fine."
I said, "You misunderstand. I need it for my van's radiator."
As ugly as she was, I went ahead and bought a couple gallons.

snip heat exhanger/distiller stuff.

You should try something on that, but I'm pretty sure space and
complexity issues will keep it from happening.
What about cleaning up the RO issues you've pointed out.
Got anything for that?


--Vic

" wrote in
oups.com:

...
The reverse osmosis water maker (admittedly not a new one) on my boat
makes about 1 gph using 5 amps at 12V, so this is about 60 WH/gal.
...

My Spectra makes 8 gph at 8 amps. That makes R/O a full order a
magnitude more efficient in energy terms than the distiller. Of
course, the price of the first gallon of purified water is ~$100 for
the distiller and ~$5k for the Spectra at retail...

-- Tom.



Someone sent me an email looking for a comparison. Of course, RO sellers
think RO is best and distiller sellers, like this guy, think distillation
is best. I happen to agree with the latter for the reasons shown on:
http://www.qualitywatersystems.net/education.html
One of my distillers is 30 years old and, though not as efficient and
easy to use as these new countertop models I prefer now, works perfectly
at around 1.8 ppm total dissolved solids after carbon filtration....after
30 years of ABUSE. If your RO membrane gets a pinhole in it, you'll
never know it....until someone gets sick, which is EXACTLY what I think
happens on RO-equipped cruise ships where massive gastrointestinal
outbreaks occurs. All the people on the ship are drinking RO'd
seawater...the common element to everyone that's sick.

I looked but can't find the article I read about bacterial breakdown
against the RO membrane. I suppose many RO interests don't want it on
the net. It was about the bacteria breaking apart under the pressures RO
uses, then the toxins in the bacteria being released, passing right
through the filter membrane into the output side. It was a scary report
I'm sure many would want BURIED....

Larry
--
Search youtube for "Depleted Uranium"
The ultimate dirty bomb......

Vic Smith wrote in
:

What's the cost of some common bottled water? Never drink it, but
maybe some brands are low in minerals.


About $1/gallon, some more (designer labels from exotic places).
Distilled water has NO minerals. This is NOT harmful! Water is the
CLEANER for body waste, not a source of nutrients. Elemental molecules
in it simply make it less of a cleaner. Case in point, water with
dissolved calcium or iron, etc., is BAD FOR YOU. Your body doesn't get
iron from iron in the water or calcium for good bones from calcium. The
body makes PAINFUL kidney stones filtering the calcium out! I have many
first hand experiences!

The filter business lives to tell potential buyers how awful clean water
is for them...with no "nutrients" in it. It's a TOTAL LIE.



Larry
--
Search youtube for "Depleted Uranium"
The ultimate dirty bomb......

Vic Smith wrote in
:

That's probably cheaper than store-bought. Do your parrots talk?
What do they actually *say* about that water?
BTW, I passed through Gila Bend, Arizona once. The cold water there
is about 120 F, and thick with minerals. I was in a grocery eyeing
the bottled water, but hate buying water. I asked the cashier if the
city water was safe, and she said "I've been drinking it 50 years, and
I'm doing just fine."
I said, "You misunderstand. I need it for my van's radiator."
As ugly as she was, I went ahead and bought a couple gallons.

snip heat exhanger/distiller stuff.

You should try something on that, but I'm pretty sure space and
complexity issues will keep it from happening.
What about cleaning up the RO issues you've pointed out.
Got anything for that?



Parrots both talk, INCESSANTLY. I wish they'd never learned....OR HEARD
AN ELECTRONIC TONE! Once learned, any sound is repeated, AD NAUSEUM!
It's only funny the first 3 days. Then it drives me CRAZY!

Luckily, there is an on-off switch! Simply cover the cages and they
sleep, giving you a break in blessed SILENCE! Too quiet at home? Get a
parrot!

Space is not a problem for an engine distiller. We simply replace the
water-cooling exhaust system with a primary boiler to suck the heat out
of the exhaust gasses, cooling the exhaust like we're doing now, by
making STEAM, not heating seawater. The same indirect engine cooling
system in use today, is replaced by a transmission oil primary loop
running at 300F, hot enough to heat a boiler to steam, and replace the
seawater cooling system with a seawater feedwater-to-steam plant,
complete with a backflush to wash out the salt when you shut it down.
The seawater steam condensor is simply a stainless steel version of the
freon condensor in any seawater cooled marine air condition you already
have on the boat. Seawater condenses the steam into pure water in a
stainless, not copper, pipe for collection and use. The heat transferred
to the seawater is dumped overboard or can be used to heat fresh water in
the water tank. Because steam gives up its heat in condensation, there's
LOTS of heat coming out of it.....nearly, we hope, 100% of the heat you
put in if there's no leakage...which is impossible. There's plenty of
hot seawater to heat the hot water tank on the way overboard.

A genset exhaust is also an excellent source for a seawater distiller
heat source....

Larry
--
Search youtube for "Depleted Uranium"
The ultimate dirty bomb......

On Sat, 08 Sep 2007 01:41:39 +0000, Larry wrote:

Vic Smith wrote in
:

That's probably cheaper than store-bought. Do your parrots talk?
What do they actually *say* about that water?
BTW, I passed through Gila Bend, Arizona once. The cold water there
is about 120 F, and thick with minerals. I was in a grocery eyeing
the bottled water, but hate buying water. I asked the cashier if the
city water was safe, and she said "I've been drinking it 50 years, and
I'm doing just fine."
I said, "You misunderstand. I need it for my van's radiator."
As ugly as she was, I went ahead and bought a couple gallons.

snip heat exhanger/distiller stuff.

You should try something on that, but I'm pretty sure space and
complexity issues will keep it from happening.
What about cleaning up the RO issues you've pointed out.
Got anything for that?



Parrots both talk, INCESSANTLY. I wish they'd never learned....OR HEARD
AN ELECTRONIC TONE! Once learned, any sound is repeated, AD NAUSEUM!
It's only funny the first 3 days. Then it drives me CRAZY!

Luckily, there is an on-off switch! Simply cover the cages and they
sleep, giving you a break in blessed SILENCE! Too quiet at home? Get a
parrot!

Space is not a problem for an engine distiller. We simply replace the
water-cooling exhaust system with a primary boiler to suck the heat out
of the exhaust gasses, cooling the exhaust like we're doing now, by
making STEAM, not heating seawater. The same indirect engine cooling
system in use today, is replaced by a transmission oil primary loop
running at 300F, hot enough to heat a boiler to steam, and replace the
seawater cooling system with a seawater feedwater-to-steam plant,
complete with a backflush to wash out the salt when you shut it down.
The seawater steam condensor is simply a stainless steel version of the
freon condensor in any seawater cooled marine air condition you already
have on the boat. Seawater condenses the steam into pure water in a
stainless, not copper, pipe for collection and use. The heat transferred
to the seawater is dumped overboard or can be used to heat fresh water in
the water tank. Because steam gives up its heat in condensation, there's
LOTS of heat coming out of it.....nearly, we hope, 100% of the heat you
put in if there's no leakage...which is impossible. There's plenty of
hot seawater to heat the hot water tank on the way overboard.

A genset exhaust is also an excellent source for a seawater distiller
heat source....

Larry

Larry,

Explain that again in one syllable words for me :-)

As I understand what you are saying you mean to remove the present
water cooled exhaust manifold from the cooling system and replace it
with a heat exchanger device to heat what? Water to make steam or oil
to heat water to make steam? Or did I miss something there?

The reason I ask is because many years ago I maintained a distillation
plant that used exhaust heat to make steam. If I remember correctly
the primary power was a Perkins 4-108 diesel and it didn't make enough
exhaust heat to boil water at sea level atmospheric pressure. The
distillation vessel was heated as hot as possible using the exhaust
and then an engine driven vacuum pump dropped the pressure in the
still to create steam at temperatures lower then 212F.

Whether this was done to increase thruput or because exhaust heat
alone was not sufficient I do not recollect.

In any event, given the cost of reverse osmosis systems using engine
heat would seem rather attractive.







Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)