On Aug 29, 4:51 am, sherwindu wrote:
terry wrote:
Westerly 1970s all fiberglass 26 footer. Previous owner replaced mast
and rigging but in the process installed deck mounted connectors (good
quality marine type) for the mast wiring that allowed water to get
into a substantial wooden block buried in the deck under the mast
step. That block is further supported by a stainless steel column
that goes down to the keel.

During winter storage the water soaked wood burst the f.glass deck
around the mast step. It's now all replaced.

Now wondering best way to connect the revamped mast wiring (Approx.
seven wires plus an RG58 coax. for the top of the mast VHF whip).**

Certainly resolved to have any wiring holes and/or mounting screws
well away from the wooden block. Also maybe prefer not to have any
connectors at all?

Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.





That would mean poking the bunch of wires from the mast through
something (a caulked hole or gland or ???) in the deck to be, say,
connected individually once per season to a terminal strip in the
toilet ('Head') compartment below. Pondering various alternatives.

Any advice please would be most appreciated.

BTW ** We now have all the nav. lights on the mast rather than lower
down on the hull and cabin sides of the boat. The original (previously
replaced!) stern light for example was for ever getting stepped on and
damaged. The individual cabin side port/starboard lights had long ago
been replaced by a red/green bow pulpit one that also suffered damage
and or got tangled with jib sheets etc. Any comments/advice on this
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Thanks Sherwin but we HAVE had the problem and fixed it. Since there
is only one small hole near bottom of mast through which wires enter
don't feel like enlarging it to poke connectors inside hollow mast.
Although I'd like to do that.
So the choices are;
a) Two connectors (a total of some 7 wires) going to two locations
though the mast plus a VHF coax, hanging from wires and probably taped
or strapped to outside surface of mast.
b) Deck mounted connectors which in view of previous water entry into
the deck and subsequent freezing would have be a long way from mast
base in an area of f.glass only decking. Thus increased chance of
damage and foot tripping etc.
c) Run the wires without connectors through a J pipe permanently
fiberglassed into the deck presently being home made and terminnate
the wires individually on a terminal strip in the toilet compartment.
Reconnect once per year when boat goes in the water.
The total thickness of deck in vicinity of the wooden block under the
mast step is I reckon about 60mm (2 to 2.5 inches. A wooden block or
bearing plate with f.glass above and below it.
This all part of completely rewiring the whole boat. Adding an 80 to
100 amp alternator to the Volvo MD-1in place of the 8 amp starter
generator etc. Note: We'd have to run the engine for about 10 hours to
recharge a flat 60 to 70 amp.hour battery with the original only 8
amps!
Regards.