Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#21
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
ferro
On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 18:30:09 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote: "Richard Casady" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:52:17 -0400, "Roger Long" wrote: Strong as wood, heavy as steel, about sums it up. My inland lake fishing boat is 22 feet of riveted aluminum. It has a bow locker with two tiny bunks. Too thin to weld. It is both strong and light and I love it. It cost two grand, and if the available steal had been glass, I would have that. Steel is either too thin for good welding, or too heavy, in anything smaller than maybe seventy five feet. You can perhaps rivet that stuff too. Aluminum killed the wood boats before there even was glass. Where I do my boating there are a bunch of aluminum boats mostly fifty years old, no maintainence ever, and lighter than the wood they replaced. Aluminum is good, but it is a bit noisy in the sheet metal type thicknesses. Of course, destroyer hulls were famous for noisy oil canning. Why they called them tin cans. Quarter inch plates. What is this repeated comment about "steel...too thin for good welding"? Unless we're talking about foil, thinner gauge steel (16 or even 18 ga) is entirely weldable. I should think 1/4" steel would be excellent for below-the-waterline on a 35 footer, perhaps going to 1/8th or 3/16ths above the waterline and for decks. Frames could be trussed to achieve strength without excessive weight. I believe that the biggest reason for having extreme thickness in steel hulls is to provide more material that can be lost to corrosion before compromising the hull. But with modern epoxy coatings, perhaps overlaid with glass or some other material for abrasion protection (to protect the epoxy barrier), this could be made unnecessary. Just thinking aloud. What he is talking about is that the wrinkled steel hulls that you see are generally pretty thin. But the wrinkles are generally a factor of economics. If you want to pay for the experience and the time there is no reason that a welded metal boat can't be pretty damned fair. But it is going to cost you so much money that it won't seem worth it. Much cheaper to slap on the filler and sandpaper it. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom) |
#22
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
ferro
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:52:17 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: They are heavy for their length though and you'll probably find that you can carry a lot more sail then the fiberglass boats. But a LOT less than a cored glass boat of the same shape and equal displacement with the weight saved in the hull carried as ballast. The glass boat will also be much stronger if some of the weight savings is used to add material. Give the ferro a break and compare it to cheaper solid glass, and it still comes off second best. How is cored for home building? I like riveted aluminum myself, and it is easy to work with. They use it for airplanes. Some are home built. Nice thing about it is, you can drill out rivets, replace mangled metal, and have it exactly like it was. How do you repair ferro after say, a collision. Can you say shipping container. Those weigh almost forty tons when awash. Casady |
#23
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
ferro
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 08:52:17 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: They are heavy for their length though and you'll probably find that you can carry a lot more sail then the fiberglass boats. But a LOT less than a cored glass boat of the same shape and equal displacement with the weight saved in the hull carried as ballast. The glass boat will also be much stronger if some of the weight savings is used to add material. Give the ferro a break and compare it to cheaper solid glass, and it still comes off second best. How is cored for home building? I like riveted aluminum myself, and it is easy to work with. They use it for airplanes. Some are home built. Nice thing about it is, you can drill out rivets, replace mangled metal, and have it exactly like it was. How do you repair ferro after say, a collision. Can you say shipping container. Those weigh almost forty tons when awash. Casady |
#24
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
ferro
On Aug 24, 10:33 am, (Richard Casady)
wrote: ... How is cored for home building? ... Very good. For one offs it is about as cheap to build cored hulls as solid glass on male tooling and cheaper than solid glass on female tooling. There are many strip-plank methods that involve laying strips of core over bulkheads (typically produced with a flat panel cutter) and then glassing. These methods eliminate lofting and greatly reduce tooling. Done well they do require a lot (really huge amounts of back breaking horrible work) of fairing after the planking stage otherwise they will need to be heavily bogged to get them as fair as traditional female tooled boats. There are other methods like (http://www.kelsall.com/methods.html which I've seen used with impressive results) that can cut down on fairing. Of course, the job really starts once you've turned the hull over. Fit-out costs are pretty much unrelated to the hull construction method and for a typical cruising boat the great majority of the work and cost is fit out. The hull may only represent 20% of the completed cost of a nicely fitted yacht. -- Tom. |
#25
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
ferro
|
#26
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
ferro
|
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Ferro-Cement | General | |||
Ferro Cement Boat Restoration | General | |||
Ferro Cement Boat Restoration | Tall Ships | |||
FS: Ferro cement hull with provenance in San Francisco, CA | Marketplace | |||
ferro cement boats | Boat Building |