On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 18:29:17 -0700, David&Joan wrote:

I have only seen one deck repair job and that was on a Pacific Seacraft
31. The repair was done from above and was undetectable afterwards.

This is the only way I've ever seen it done, which was why I asked the
question. A seller claims that the work was done from the inside. I
can't imagine what kind of a mess that would create. As to the
keel/ballast question, the boat we're looking at has an ugly looking
joint. The asking price is so low as to make a sensible person go
hmmmm....Must consult the surveyor.

You might look in the Yellow Pages for industrial X-ray outfits. I've heard
of it being done and it will tell you a lot about the condition of the keel
bolts. Often, they are necked down to nearly nothing in the joint.

--
Roger Long

and, that's important not just for determining the necessity of the job but
also for guiding the repair. If the bolts are necked, you are probably not
going to be able to back them out without breaking them off and will need to
drill new holes. This is fairly easy in a lead keel but a big job in iron.

--
Roger Long

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:43:29 -0400, "mr.b" wrote:

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 18:29:17 -0700, David&Joan wrote:

I have only seen one deck repair job and that was on a Pacific Seacraft
31. The repair was done from above and was undetectable afterwards.

This is the only way I've ever seen it done, which was why I asked the
question. A seller claims that the work was done from the inside. I
can't imagine what kind of a mess that would create. As to the
keel/ballast question, the boat we're looking at has an ugly looking
joint. The asking price is so low as to make a sensible person go
hmmmm....Must consult the surveyor.

I don;t know what kind of a boat you have but I just replaced the deck
on a 35 ft. power boat. We replaced the deck core from the inside. The
boat was bought knowing that much of the interior would have to be
replaced so we initially literally gutted the boat. We then cut
through the interior deck skin and scrapped and sanded the rotten
plywood core out. Finally we replaced the core. due to the curvature
of the deck it was relatively easy to "plank" the core across the
width of the boat with a single support under the center. We also used
screws from the top to ensure that the fit between the core and the
upper skin was tight. The core planks were glued in with epoxy glue.
Once the glue was dry the screws were removed and the holes plugged.

After glueing in all the core a fairly small amount of fairing and
filling was needed to produce a smooth surface which was covered with
one layer of 400 Gm. chopped mat followed by a layer of 400 gm. woven
roving.

I had no problem laminating 400 gm cloth overhead by simply wetting
out the wood and then "sticking the cloth up against the wetted wood
and rolling out the cloth with a roller wet with resin. With one
helper I was easily able to put up 3 X 6 foot sections of cloth.

Having said all this please remember that the boat was literally a
hollow shell when we did the work. To try this with a boat filled with
bulkheads and cabinets, lockers, etc. would be nearly impossible, or
at least something I wouldn't want to attempt.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com