Wouldn't the steam created by these heating methods cause more damage
from the pressure than just leaving them alone?

As to drag, a dimpled hull is FAR less drag than a smooth one that
creates no eddy currents. Watch the jetski racers draggin' their race
boats down the beach to roughen up the surface and break surface
tension because they know it will go faster.....and it does.

Regal didn't put that groove in the hull to create bubbles for
nothing....



On 15 Oct 2003 20:35:51 -0700, (Parallax)
wrote:

I've dealt with hull blisters and have finally decided that they are
normally no big deal. I have never heard of hull failure from them
and they seem to be simply a cosmetic problem. As far as drag goes,
my fixed prop causes more drag. However, some ppl really hate em and
go so far as to PEEEEEEEEELLLL their gelcoat (sounds really painful)
dry the matting and re-gelcoat. I call this the Peel 'n Pray method
cuz most offen the blisters return. Its just too hard to remove all
the water from the matting even with heaters n such.
Once, I took an electric heat gun and applied it about 4" from a
blister (through the gelcoat)and was amazed at how much water came out
of the blister (This was after 2 months of drying). Clearly, passive
drying dont work.

SO: Useless idea #3727

Peel only in narrow strips in a grid pattern to allow moisture to exit
and apply heat to the grid squares. However, heating the glass is
inefficient when you really want to heat the water. Instead, use
microwaves which couple to polar molecules such as water and dont
couple too well to the glass or resin (ie, you only heat the water).
You could measure the microwave intensity inside the boat at different
places as a function of time to determine dryness. The moisture would
attenuate the waves and a dry hull would not.


Larry W4CSC

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