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#1
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The line from my toilet runs under the bed, through the rear wall
(transom?) of the interior and into a tank in the engine compartment. Recently I've removed the walls from around the bottom of the bed, and now the stink from the hose is much more noticable. It's a white plastic hose and you can see that there is wire reinforcement within. Is there something I can wrap the hose in, or any other methods to reduce the amount of smell that gets out through the hose? Thanks, David |
#2
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![]() wrote: The line from my toilet runs under the bed, through the rear wall (transom?) of the interior and into a tank in the engine compartment. Recently I've removed the walls from around the bottom of the bed, and now the stink from the hose is much more noticable. It's a white plastic hose and you can see that there is wire reinforcement within. Is there something I can wrap the hose in, or any other methods to reduce the amount of smell that gets out through the hose? Thanks, David How old is the hose? The white stuff in particular goes bad every few years and just needs to be replaced..........The black stuff is better, but not immortal. Are you sure the smell is coming from the hose? The hose is a common source, but to be sure you have isolated the source of the offensive odor, you can conduct some detective work with a damp cloth. Starting at one end of the hose or the other, hold the damp cloth against any fitting or joint you find and leave it for a short period of time. Then put the damp cloth up to your nose and take a whiff. You will absolutely know when you come across the source of the odor. In addition to the joints and connections, place the cloth on the hose itself. Unless the boat is pretty new or the hose has been replaced within the last few years, my money is on replacing the hose as the ultimate cure. When that's done, make sure that future flushes include adequate volume to move waste all the way to the holding tank so that "stuff" doesn't sit and moulder in the line. Along with sanitation hoses past their prime, inadequately vented holding tanks are also frequent sources of offensive sewage odors. How far from the suspected hose to the holding tank? |
#4
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Chuck Gould wrote:
Along with sanitation hoses past their prime, inadequately vented holding tanks are also frequent sources of offensive sewage odors. I hear from people all the time who tell me they pump out every weekend, always rinse out their tank, and have tried every holding tank product on the market, but still have odor inside the boat. They've just been chasing their tails...'cuz unless the tank is leaking, odor from inside the tank can't be the source of odor inside a boat, 'cuz unless there's a leak, odor from inside the tank has only one place to go: out the tank vent...although a worn out joker valve in the toilet can allow gasses from the tank to escape into the head via the toilet. But in that case, the odor would be confined to the head, it wouldn't permeate other parts of the boat. In this case, my money is on permeated sanitation hoses. And it doesn't matter how old or new the boat is, how long it takes for a hose to permeate--whether it ever permeates--can't be predicited. I used the same brand/type of hose on two of my own boats...it was on the first one for more than 7 years without a trace of odor...it permeated on the second boat in less than 90 days. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
#5
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posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with rigid 1.25"
PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size) There is a glue in drain tailpiece fitting that, by accident, connects from 1.5" flex hose to 1.25" PVC perfectly. The PVC can have mild bends imparted with a heat gun. Long straight runs are easiest. There are also flexible rubber T, L and straight connectors for the PVC, referred to in a hardware store as a "Fernco". Lee Haefele Nauticat 33 Alesto (for sale) Leopard 38 Alesto 2 |
#6
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If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with rigid
1.25" PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size) I wouldn't use rigid PVC in a boat. The vibrations are such that you're looking for trouble WHEN (not if) the connections start breaking loose. There may be some portions of the setup that could use rigid pipe but I doubt it. |
#7
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On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 22:31:11 -0400, wrote:
The line from my toilet runs under the bed, through the rear wall (transom?) of the interior and into a tank in the engine compartment. Recently I've removed the walls from around the bottom of the bed, and now the stink from the hose is much more noticable. It's a white plastic hose and you can see that there is wire reinforcement within. Is there something I can wrap the hose in, or any other methods to reduce the amount of smell that gets out through the hose? Thanks, David I've had some success with a product called Febreeze, usually found with laundry or carpet cleaning products. It's made to eliminate pet odors, etc. Sprayed on the outside of the hose, it seems to neutralize the odor temporarily. YMMV, but I tried it several months ago and the odor still hasn't come back. I'm sure it's not a permanent solution though. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
#8
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On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 03:53:47 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote: The only real cure for permeated sanitation hoses is replacement. However, if you'd rather wait till fall to do that miserable job, you can buy youreself that much time by wrapping the hoses in Saran Wrap...it must be Saran...no other brand. Aluminium tape will do nicely too. cheers, Pete. |
#9
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On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 07:07:42 -0400, "Lee Haefele"
wrote: If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with rigid 1.25" PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size) There is a glue in drain tailpiece fitting that, by accident, connects from 1.5" flex hose to 1.25" PVC perfectly. The PVC can have mild bends imparted with a heat gun. Long straight runs are easiest. There are also flexible rubber T, L and straight connectors for the PVC, referred to in a hardware store as a "Fernco". Lee Haefele Nauticat 33 Alesto (for sale) Leopard 38 Alesto 2 This is one of those notes that I salt away, against the day. Thanks Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#10
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Pete C wrote:
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 03:53:47 GMT, Peggie Hall wrote: The only real cure for permeated sanitation hoses is replacement. However, if you'd rather wait till fall to do that miserable job, you can buy youreself that much time by wrapping the hoses in Saran Wrap...it must be Saran...no other brand. Aluminium tape will do nicely too. You have to be very careful using aluminum tape...to make sure that it doesn't ever come in contact anywhere with any wiring or metal. 'Cuz if it does, galvanic corrosion and/or electrolysis is the result. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
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