Bill Kearney wrote:
If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with
rigid
1.25"
PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size)

I wouldn't use rigid PVC in a boat. The vibrations are such that
you're looking for trouble WHEN (not if) the connections start
breaking loose.

There may be some portions of the setup that could use rigid pipe but
I doubt it.

Hard PVC pipe is ok for long straight runs, provided it's supported and
"soft coupled" to anything rigid--toilet, tank, y-valve, thru-hull
etc--with enough hose (about a foot) to allow flex and cushion shock.

It's not a good idea to use it in a system that has a lot of short runs
and bends, though...'cuz you end up with a zillion unions, all potential
leakers.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:14:56 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Pete C wrote:
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 03:53:47 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

The only real cure for permeated sanitation hoses is replacement.
However, if you'd rather wait till fall to do that miserable job, you
can buy youreself that much time by wrapping the hoses in Saran
Wrap...it must be Saran...no other brand.

Aluminium tape will do nicely too.

You have to be very careful using aluminum tape...to make sure that it
doesn't ever come in contact anywhere with any wiring or metal. 'Cuz if
it does, galvanic corrosion and/or electrolysis is the result.

Good point, I guess a layer of duct tape or similar would take care of
that.

cheers,
Pete.

Peggie Hall wrote in news:ZSyog.109820$H71.56700
@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com:

all potential
leakers.


Yecch....I should have learned by now NOT to read Peggie's posts right
after dinner....(c;

Harry Krause wrote:
Peggie, you once suggested the best brand and model of sanitation hoses,
I believe. I lost that tip...might you offer it up again?

I suspect you're referring to AVS96, which unfortunately was
discontinued because the mfr couldn't succeed in creating enough of a
volume market for it to continue production profitably.

The most odor resistant hose on the market now--and it may be even more
so than AVS96--is Trident's new 101/102 (same rubber hose, they just
make it in both black and white), which is a double-walled rubber hose
that has a biocide in the rubber formulation. However, it does have one
downside: a chemical odor from the hose itself that some people find
impossible to tolerate. But apparently very few people, 'cuz it's been
getting rave reviews..."the new hose with the green stripe." Check it
out he http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/sanitation.htm


Also, I discovered that the holding tank on Yo Ho has NO offshore manual
pump out pump, valve or through hull. I'm wondering if I can install a
pump a few feet away from the tank and plumb it with the proper fitting
to the same through hull we use when offshore. I guess I could...yes?

Whether you can use the same thru-hull depends on how far it is from the
tank and your choice of pump/pump location. If the thru-hull isn't more
than about 6' from the tank, you should be ok. Install a y-valve, not
just a tee or wye--in the pumpout line as close to the tank as possible,
so you can cut off the flow from the tank to pump to service the
pump...and if the thru-hull is below the waterline, tee it into your
toilet's direct discharge line ahead of the vented loop...which will
eliminate the need for a second one.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Replacing the sanitation hose can be a huge PITA and the stuff is
ridiculously expensive. If your schedule and wallet don't have room for this
now, you can get seal the outside of the hose by painting it.
I've done this with black hose, but not white so don't know what kind of
paint to use.
If there is a leak, break out the wifes platex dish washing gloves! She
probably won't want them back when your done....
MMC
wrote in message
...
The line from my toilet runs under the bed, through the rear wall
(transom?) of the interior and into a tank in the engine compartment.
Recently I've removed the walls from around the bottom of the bed,
and now the stink from the hose is much more noticable. It's a white
plastic hose and you can see that there is wire reinforcement within.
Is there something I can wrap the hose in, or any other methods to
reduce the amount of smell that gets out through the hose?

Thanks,
David

I use a large, dedicated freshwater tank for manual pump flushing,
which I keep full using a dedicated Spectra watermaker.

Just about every head problem is sal****er related. And by eliminating
the electric pumps too, yet another set of problems vanish.

I rebuilt the entire system anticipating the hundreds of problems I've
had in the past. For example, I now have a short, downhill hose run
with only a slight bend.

I was so happy with this new arrangement, I got rid of the sal****er
hookups and electric pumps in the galley too.

The only problem I have now is getting guests not to flush paper and
other stuff.



On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 22:31:11 -0400, wrote:

The line from my toilet runs under the bed, through the rear wall
(transom?) of the interior and into a tank in the engine compartment.
Recently I've removed the walls from around the bottom of the bed,
and now the stink from the hose is much more noticable. It's a white
plastic hose and you can see that there is wire reinforcement within.
Is there something I can wrap the hose in, or any other methods to
reduce the amount of smell that gets out through the hose?

Thanks,
David

After years and years of fighting head-related problems, I replaced Essie's
marine head wtih a decent-size Porta Potti. No more clogging, no special
instructions on how to flush, and fewer holes in the bottom of the boat.
Emptying the portable holding tank is easy -- take it ashore and flush. It's
no worse than maintaining a traditional marine head, and in so many ways
much more civilised.

Karin Conover-Lewis
Rawson 30 ketch "Escapade"
Marinette, WI

"Cindy" wrote in message
news
I use a large, dedicated freshwater tank for manual pump flushing,
which I keep full using a dedicated Spectra watermaker.

Just about every head problem is sal****er related. And by eliminating
the electric pumps too, yet another set of problems vanish.

I rebuilt the entire system anticipating the hundreds of problems I've
had in the past. For example, I now have a short, downhill hose run
with only a slight bend.

I was so happy with this new arrangement, I got rid of the sal****er
hookups and electric pumps in the galley too.

The only problem I have now is getting guests not to flush paper and
other stuff.



On Tue, 27 Jun 2006 22:31:11 -0400, wrote:

The line from my toilet runs under the bed, through the rear wall
(transom?) of the interior and into a tank in the engine compartment.
Recently I've removed the walls from around the bottom of the bed,
and now the stink from the hose is much more noticable. It's a white
plastic hose and you can see that there is wire reinforcement within.
Is there something I can wrap the hose in, or any other methods to
reduce the amount of smell that gets out through the hose?

Thanks,
David

KLC Lewis wrote:
After years and years of fighting head-related problems, I replaced Essie's
marine head wtih a decent-size Porta Potti. No more clogging, no special
instructions on how to flush, and fewer holes in the bottom of the boat.
Emptying the portable holding tank is easy -- take it ashore and flush. It's
no worse than maintaining a traditional marine head, and in so many ways
much more civilised.

Better yet, install one of the 5-6 gal models designed to be permanently
installed and fitted for pumpout. Just as easy to use and maintain...no
plumbing except the vent line and pumpout line--with a y-valve and
macerator or manual diaphragm pump if you want to dump it at sea...and
you don't have to carry it off the boat or hold it over the side to
empty it. Which CAN be problematic, 'cuz a lot of marinas won't let you
dump 'em in their toilets and don't have a portapotty dump station either.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 16:23:07 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

KLC Lewis wrote:
After years and years of fighting head-related problems, I replaced Essie's
marine head wtih a decent-size Porta Potti. No more clogging, no special
instructions on how to flush, and fewer holes in the bottom of the boat.
Emptying the portable holding tank is easy -- take it ashore and flush. It's
no worse than maintaining a traditional marine head, and in so many ways
much more civilised.

Better yet, install one of the 5-6 gal models designed to be permanently
installed and fitted for pumpout. Just as easy to use and maintain...no
plumbing except the vent line and pumpout line--with a y-valve and
macerator or manual diaphragm pump if you want to dump it at sea...and
you don't have to carry it off the boat or hold it over the side to
empty it. Which CAN be problematic, 'cuz a lot of marinas won't let you
dump 'em in their toilets and don't have a portapotty dump station either.

What about the odor coming from these things? Are these permanent
porta-pottie units quality built, or cheap crap for cheap crappers?

Cindy wrote:
On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 16:23:07 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

KLC Lewis wrote:
After years and years of fighting head-related problems, I replaced Essie's
marine head wtih a decent-size Porta Potti.

Better yet, install one of the 5-6 gal models designed to be permanently
installed and fitted for pumpout. Just as easy to use and maintain...no
plumbing except the vent line and pumpout line--with a y-valve and
macerator or manual diaphragm pump if you want to dump it at sea...and
you don't have to carry it off the boat or hold it over the side to
empty it. Which CAN be problematic, 'cuz a lot of marinas won't let you
dump 'em in their toilets and don't have a portapotty dump station either.


What about the odor coming from these things?

Because the "pumpable" models must be vented, same as any other tank,
they can be maintained aerobically and therefore odor-free.

Are these permanent
porta-pottie units quality built, or cheap crap for cheap crappers?

Like anything else, you get what you pay for. Thetford and SeaLand
portapotties are good quality.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304