Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

Not exactly, but A is very caustic (basic) and B is a neutralizing
acid. Get extra B when you buy the stuff to neutralize it when you get
it where you don't want it.

Keith,
If you are speaking about 'basic chemistry' {sorry about the pun}, any weak
acid should do. My recommendation for something simple, cheap, and readily
available . . . VINEGAR.

Quickly throw a bucket of water on the spill to dilute it as much as
possible, then toss on some Vinegar and swab the area with a towel, etc.

It's Acidic Acid at a 5 percent dilution. Available at your local
supermarket in GALLON sizes. Really useful stuff . . . I use it for initial
cleaning and mix it with denatured Alcohol for 'holding' epoxy tools. It
also makes a very good weed killer. Not 'systemic', but gets rid of the
'above ground' green part in about 24-hours.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Keith" wrote in message
oups.com...
Not exactly, but A is very caustic (basic) and B is a neutralizing
acid. Get extra B when you buy the stuff to neutralize it when you get
it where you don't want it.

Don't know about Teka....but 'many' teak cleaners prime ingredient is oxalic
acid. Flush with water to remove.
Some two part cleaners have stronger chemicals that can eat away the softer
wood tissue between the growth rings, not a good thing.

...Ken


"Chris" wrote in message
oups.com...
Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

http://www.marinetex.com/MSDS%20PAGE...%20Cleaner.pdf


"Chris" wrote in message
oups.com...
Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

Interesting.

Their "unique" "teak" oil is 1 part linseed oil to 5 or 10 parts paint
thinner:

http://www.marinetex.com/MSDS%20PAGE...Teak%20Oil.pdf

Chris wrote:

Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

Chris;
Go to the 99 cent store and get a gallon of "Sudsy" Ammonia. Make sure
it is the right stuff. Regular ammonia won't work.

Works as well as Teka, costs nothing, and is gentle on you and the teak.


You're welcome.

On 28 May 2006 08:54:43 -0700, "Chris" wrote:

Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

Probably the same as Dally's AB, which is hydrogen peroxide in two
parts. Overdo this on old, worn out woods and you can end up with a
result so white you have to stain it, which looks kind of fake. Try it
in an unnoticable place if you can or brush light coats till you get
the rust stains or whatever you're dealing with out. I think you use
water and denatured alcohol 50/50 to neutralize. Good luck.

In most teak cleaners
Part A is usually a caustic such as TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate)
Part B is usually oxalic acid
You can buy these in a hardware or paint store at a FRACTION of the
cost from a 'boat store'.

Most caustics will dissolve the oil from you skin. Oxalic will rapidly
absorb through your skin, then accumulate and do great cumulative harm
to you kidneys ... so wear gloves when working with part B

Part A will dissolve the UV destroyed (grey) surface layer of wood
cells but leave the 'fresh' cells intact. Part B neutralizes part A
..... and the excess part B bleaches the teak.


In article .com,
Chris wrote:

Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!

Or, you could just get some Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. Scrub a bit
and rinse. They say to avoid too much contact with fiberglass,
aluminum or paint and other finishes, though I've never had a problem.
Teak comes up clean and fresh.


Rich Hampel wrote:
In most teak cleaners
Part A is usually a caustic such as TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate)
Part B is usually oxalic acid
You can buy these in a hardware or paint store at a FRACTION of the
cost from a 'boat store'.

Most caustics will dissolve the oil from you skin. Oxalic will rapidly
absorb through your skin, then accumulate and do great cumulative harm
to you kidneys ... so wear gloves when working with part B

Part A will dissolve the UV destroyed (grey) surface layer of wood
cells but leave the 'fresh' cells intact. Part B neutralizes part A
.... and the excess part B bleaches the teak.


In article .com,
Chris wrote:


Does anybody know the ingredients of TEKA A and B?

I am wondering a bucket of what I should have ready to
quickly rinse off / flush away spills of TEKA A when
cleaning trim. (Soapy water? Vinegar solution? Sth. else?),
and also what protection is appropriate. (Rubber gloves?)

Thanks!