Any suggestions on removing newglass fiberglass coating. I have a
vague memory that ammonia was useful. And other suggestions?

--

Mys Terry wrote:

On 16 Apr 2006 19:16:52 -0400, Marc Auslander
wrote:

Any suggestions on removing newglass fiberglass coating. I have a
vague memory that ammonia was useful. And other suggestions?

Sounds like a troll to me. If not, just follow the directions and it is easy as
pie to remove.

It isn't that easy. Others have posted about it in the past.
Newglass has a remover that they also sell, but IIRC you can just buy
the main ingredient (whatever it is) cheaper by itself.

grandma Rosalie

"Mys Terry" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 13:39:31 GMT, Rosalie B.
wrote:

Mys Terry wrote:

On 16 Apr 2006 19:16:52 -0400, Marc Auslander

wrote:

Any suggestions on removing newglass fiberglass coating. I have a
vague memory that ammonia was useful. And other suggestions?

Sounds like a troll to me. If not, just follow the directions and it is
easy as
pie to remove.

It isn't that easy. Others have posted about it in the past.
Newglass has a remover that they also sell, but IIRC you can just buy
the main ingredient (whatever it is) cheaper by itself.

grandma Rosalie

I use PoliGlow which is very similar to newglass. The CORRECT remover
makes it VERY easy to remove. I've heard of people claiming they had a
hard time, but in 100% of those cases, when questioned, it turns out
they didn't follow the directions. I've heard of yard guys trying to
remove the stuff by compounding it off. That's just plain
incompetence. You are suggesting that you should buy what you "think"
is the same thing as the remover to try and save money. Thats a good
way to get a bad result. The CORRECT remover is not expensive to begin
with. Use what the manufacturer supplies, following the supplied
directions and it is easy.

I'll second that--at least as far as Poliglow is concerned. I had to remove
the Poliglow from my stern to have some lettering done and it came off
easily with the Poliglow remover and a 3M pad. I haven't had any experience
with Newglass, though.
--Alan Gomes

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 19:16:52 -0400, Marc Auslander wrote:

Any suggestions on removing newglass fiberglass coating. I have a vague
memory that ammonia was useful. And other suggestions?

I've used this on my boat for 6 years now and it does a really nice job.
Unfortunately there is nothing on the label on the bottle in my hand that
indicates what to use to strip it off. However there are clues.

From the label:

Avoid sodium hydrozide based cleaners.
Avoid ammonia based cleaners.
This indicates to me that these substances will degrade the New Glass in
some respect.

From my experience:
Straight ammonia takes _way_too_long_ to be practical. What does work
is a product -sold in Canada- perhaps in the States as well,
called "Super Tuff". It is essentially an *oxalic acid* based liquid
cleaner. Wipe some on, wait about 3 or 4 minutes and then blast the
softened NewGlass off with a hose or a power washer. Works like magic.
You want to avoid letting it sit on unvarnished teak or un-anodized
aluminum for *any* length of time and you should read up on handling
instructions for oxalic acid. This last bit is serious.

Mys Terry wrote:

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 11:58:13 -0400, prodigal1 wrote:

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 19:16:52 -0400, Marc Auslander wrote:

Any suggestions on removing newglass fiberglass coating. I have a vague
memory that ammonia was useful. And other suggestions?

I've used this on my boat for 6 years now and it does a really nice job.
Unfortunately there is nothing on the label on the bottle in my hand that
indicates what to use to strip it off. However there are clues.

From the label:

Avoid sodium hydrozide based cleaners.
Avoid ammonia based cleaners.
This indicates to me that these substances will degrade the New Glass in
some respect.

From my experience:
Straight ammonia takes _way_too_long_ to be practical. What does work
is a product -sold in Canada- perhaps in the States as well,
called "Super Tuff". It is essentially an *oxalic acid* based liquid
cleaner. Wipe some on, wait about 3 or 4 minutes and then blast the
softened NewGlass off with a hose or a power washer. Works like magic.
You want to avoid letting it sit on unvarnished teak or un-anodized
aluminum for *any* length of time and you should read up on handling
instructions for oxalic acid. This last bit is serious.

From the Newglass2 website:

Removal of NewGlass2
Rubbing compound will not remove NewGlass2. Use our PreTreat to remove
NewGlass2. NewGlass2 PreTreat can be mixed 3 parts water to 1 part
PreTreat. It should be sprayed or wiped on a wet 4’ by 6’ area and
scrubbed with the supplied scrubber. If PreTreat is being used to
remove prior applications of NewGlass2, rinse off surface as soon as
it has been scrubbed. Failure to rinse immediately will allow
NewGlass2 to reattach itself to the surface.

If you have any questions Please call Thom or Jennifer at 800 785 7675

So what is the PreTreat made of?


grandma Rosalie

Mys Terry wrote:

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:26:05 GMT, Rosalie B. wrote:

Mys Terry wrote:

From the Newglass2 website:

Removal of NewGlass2
Rubbing compound will not remove NewGlass2. Use our PreTreat to remove
NewGlass2. NewGlass2 PreTreat can be mixed 3 parts water to 1 part
PreTreat. It should be sprayed or wiped on a wet 4’ by 6’ area and
scrubbed with the supplied scrubber. If PreTreat is being used to
remove prior applications of NewGlass2, rinse off surface as soon as
it has been scrubbed. Failure to rinse immediately will allow
NewGlass2 to reattach itself to the surface.

If you have any questions Please call Thom or Jennifer at 800 785 7675

So what is the PreTreat made of?


grandma Rosalie

I have no idea, and it really doesn't matter. It's the right tool for the job.

Having been in the business of evaluating MSDSs for many years, it
matters to me what's in stuff. Sometimes when you come right down to
it, it's nothing in there that couldn't be gotten way cheaper and
better without the brand name. So I'm not convinced that it doesn't
matter.

grandma Rosalie

Thanks for the thoughts so far.

The newglass I used didn't come with a cleaner as newglass2 does. And
I don't have the bottle so I couldn't read the instructions.

I suspect my ammonia memory corresponds to the warning quoted in one
of the responses.

So far the only real experience seems to be oxalic acid based
cleaners.

But I'm hoping for better news.
--

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 21:49:10 +0000, Rosalie B. wrote:

Having been in the business of evaluating MSDSs for many years, it matters
to me what's in stuff. Sometimes when you come right down to it, it's
nothing in there that couldn't be gotten way cheaper and better without
the brand name. So I'm not convinced that it doesn't matter.

And you'd be correct. Having had email contact today with the prompt and
helpful Thom Goff at NewGlass2, he tells me that while he has heard of the
Canadian product called "NewGlass", it is not the same as the "NewGlass2"
that he sells, nor does he know of its formulation, nor whether his
"Pretreat" would be a chemically compatible stripper for the product sold
in Canada as "NewGlass".
So for the original poster, possible answers are; if you have purchased
"NewGlass2" in the States, then by all means use the stripper provided by
the manufacturer. If you are using the product sold in Canada called
"NewGlass" you can use the advice offered above or not. You can also
contact Skipper Products in Whitby Ontario -do a Bell search for the phone
number- to see if they have any further helpful information.

Mys Terry wrote:

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 21:49:10 GMT, Rosalie B. wrote:

Mys Terry wrote:

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:26:05 GMT, Rosalie B. wrote:

Mys Terry wrote:

From the Newglass2 website:

Removal of NewGlass2
Rubbing compound will not remove NewGlass2. Use our PreTreat to remove
NewGlass2. NewGlass2 PreTreat can be mixed 3 parts water to 1 part
PreTreat. It should be sprayed or wiped on a wet 4’ by 6’ area and
scrubbed with the supplied scrubber. If PreTreat is being used to
remove prior applications of NewGlass2, rinse off surface as soon as
it has been scrubbed. Failure to rinse immediately will allow
NewGlass2 to reattach itself to the surface.

If you have any questions Please call Thom or Jennifer at 800 785 7675

So what is the PreTreat made of?


grandma Rosalie

I have no idea, and it really doesn't matter. It's the right tool for the job.

Having been in the business of evaluating MSDSs for many years, it
matters to me what's in stuff. Sometimes when you come right down to
it, it's nothing in there that couldn't be gotten way cheaper and
better without the brand name. So I'm not convinced that it doesn't
matter.

grandma Rosalie

Well, you are the one who said it was hard to remove New Glass, and in the same

I don't think I said that. What I think I said was that I had HEARD
people say that it was hard to remove.

Also the product I was talking about was Newglass and NOT Newglass2,
which may be a more advanced product. We did use the original
Newglass about 5 years ago and we didn't have any problem with it, but
Bob changed from that to Penetrol. I'm not sure what he uses now.

post, advocated using something other than what the company recommended. I'd say
that you are your own worst enemy. The RIGHT stuff that is known to make the job
VERY easy is not at all expensive, so there is no real money to be saved.

The right stuff is simply watered down goat's milk. Unfortuneately it has to
come from one specfic "magic" goat, and they own that goat. Your generic goat
milk obviously is not the same thing since it didn't work, so you really didn't
save any money at all. You just wasted whatever you spent and didn't get any
results.






grandma Rosalie