Yeah tell me about it. Seeing the hose clamped to the thread didn't
really agree with me.

Now, having read about Marelon and bronze, and don't put the two
together, I'm looking at
this full flow flanged seacock, bronze. Is this the right thing to fit
on the through-hull? What to do with the flange? I don't really want to
get into bolting it through the hull, .. will the flange portion even
fit correctly on the seat? Is there another way to bond the flange?

http://tinyurl.com/g2hl4

Basically if I just screwed this on as is, I can imagine the flange
sitting up off the hull
about 1/2". Is this the wrong piece of hardware for what I have in
place already?

Thanks,

-CB

wrote:
Now, having read about Marelon and bronze, and don't put the two
together, I'm looking at
this full flow flanged seacock, bronze. Is this the right thing to fit
on the through-hull?

Sure does sound like it.

... What to do with the flange? I don't really want to
get into bolting it through the hull, .. will the flange portion even
fit correctly on the seat?

It will if you put in a spacer, like a doughnut with a flat
to accept the flange and cut to the right thickness so that
the body of the seacock is on *just* tight enough when the
flange meets the surface.

Hey, it's just more work.


... Is there another way to bond the flange?


If it were me, I'd secure the flange by using short
self-tappers into the doughnut spacer.


http://tinyurl.com/g2hl4

Basically if I just screwed this on as is, I can imagine the flange
sitting up off the hull
about 1/2". Is this the wrong piece of hardware for what I have in
place already?


No, I think it's the right one. Have you shopped around the
on-line discount retailers? It's possible you could save some.

I took a quick look and found a different kind that is
substantially cheaper.

http://www.pyacht.net/cgi-local/Soft...cz2363ff237b23

or

http://tinyurl.com/ps2y4

The place where they saved money making this one is obvious,
the valve body is much smaller & the handle cheaper
(although I dunno if the Groco handle is really any better).

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Thanks Doug. Two followups;

What to make the spacer of? Are there commercial products available or
are we talking about cutting a chunk of rubber to fit? Are we talking a
bronze dougnut?

NPS threading on the through-hull and the seacock; what to seal with?
Pipe dope or teflon tape? I think I read teflon tape only for tapered
threads so.. ?

Thanks again,

-CB

wrote:
What to make the spacer of? Are there commercial products available or
are we talking about cutting a chunk of rubber to fit? Are we talking a
bronze dougnut?


Well, this is what I've been doing the last couple years...
haven't seen any down side, nor read anything about it yes
or no: cutting board

Go to K-Mart (or whatever cut-rate retailer is closest) and
buy a large inexpensive plastic cutting board. The plain
cheap ones are about $3 for 2' square. It's tough and won't
rot, it's relatively easy to work, it even takes a thread
fairly well (although I have not used it for strength). Cut
two or three doughnuts & stack 'em... voila!

There are dozens of places on board for using this stuff, I
keep some handy so I won't be raiding our kitchen.


NPS threading on the through-hull and the seacock; what to seal with?
Pipe dope or teflon tape? I think I read teflon tape only for tapered
threads so.. ?


Isn't the female thread in the seacock tapered? I think the
concensus was that pipe dope is better.

DSK

Interesting thought re the cutting board.. I can see that working
nicely.

The bottom thread on the seacock is straight to match the straight on
the through-hull. However the top is tapered so I'll get a bronze hose
barb fitting with tapered to match there.

Cheers, and thanks again to everyone who lent some insight here.

-CB

"Bob" wrote

2) Just last night I was washing off my 1/2" white cutting board and
ran some hot water over it to clean it. The board started to warp.

No problem! Just keep your boat out of hot water. (Always a good idea
anyway.)

I use epoxy embalmed plywood myself. You know, they used to build
whole boats out of that stuff, even without the epoxy.

--

Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
"Bob" wrote

2) Just last night I was washing off my 1/2" white cutting board and
ran some hot water over it to clean it. The board started to warp.

No problem! Just keep your boat out of hot water. (Always a good idea
anyway.)


That made me chuckle! Could be a problem for some of us though........



I use epoxy embalmed plywood myself. You know, they used to build
whole boats out of that stuff, even without the epoxy.

Wood??????

Interesting idea! I may have to start expermenting with that idea.
Where can you find that stuff?

Bob

Roger Long

"Bob" wrote

Wood??????

Interesting idea! I may have to start expermenting with that idea.
Where can you find that stuff?

It's pretty hard to come by since the hurricanes and all the post
storm construction. I still have few scraps in my shop that I'm
hoarding for special projects.

--

Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
I use epoxy embalmed plywood myself. You know, they used to build
whole boats out of that stuff, even without the epoxy.


Epoxy "saturated" wood is highly over rated IMHO (although
it does take a thread fairly nicely). The stuff will still
rot. Epoxy "saturation" helps a lot but it's really a
misnomer since it doesn't get more than about 1/8" into the
wood.

For that matter, wood will also warp if exposed to UV or hot
water, or if the grain is funny in a spot you can't see.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

"DSK" wrote

Epoxy "saturated" wood is highly over rated IMHO (although it does
take a thread fairly nicely). The stuff will still rot.

Yes, but to rot you have to have both rot spores and moisture over a
fairly narrow range. There are no spores left alive in plywood after
all the heating and processing and the Epoxy embalming (I know it
isn't saturation) will keep any new ones from getting to the wood. If
the through hull doesn't leak and is in a well ventilated place, it's
going to last longer than I am.

It's not often realized but rot does need a very precise moisture
range. It moves very fast when conditions are right, up to 3/8 inch
per day, but lies dormant the rest of the time. That's why you get
rot in places where there are moisture gradients or changes. It
increases the chance of conditions being just right.

--

Roger Long