This is a setup similar to a automotive heater. A very small water coil
(looks like a little car radiator) is in a cabinet with a fan. It draws air
from the cabin, blows it through the water coil and back out into the cabin
area. No air is drawn from the engine area. The water coil is in the
coolant line that takes the hot water from the engine to the heat exchanger
so it get the heat out of the water before the heat exchanger gets rid of
it.

Here is an example:
http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/shop5...p?catalogid=29
--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton at eastlink dot ca

"rhys" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 13:32:45 GMT, "Ken Heaton"
wrote:


"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
newsmKRf.1470$%b.892@trndny04...
Roger ,, couldn't you set up a fan unit to take the heat out of the
engine
coolant in the winter? Like a radiator in a car?

Then, you could have a warm boat.

This seems extreme though. Are you this hard core?

I have a friend with this exact setup in a Viking 33 with a fresh water
cooled Atomic 4. No water heater though. He gets heat quickly and it is
effective for keeping the boat warm while the engine is running.

As I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4, I'd be interested in how this
is set up in a way that doesn't counteract the blower venting the
engine compartment.

I don't have chronic crankcase fumes as it's a freshly rebuilt engine,
but if I'm on a downwind motorsail, I do smell it a bit in the cabin.

In other words, how do you leach off the heat without the fumes?

R.

"Ken Heaton" wrote in
news:HYvTf.3141$J43.2422@edtnps90:

This is a setup similar to a automotive heater. A very small water
coil (looks like a little car radiator) is in a cabinet with a fan.
It draws air from the cabin, blows it through the water coil and back
out into the cabin area. No air is drawn from the engine area. The
water coil is in the coolant line that takes the hot water from the
engine to the heat exchanger so it get the heat out of the water
before the heat exchanger gets rid of it.



http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?r=ms&p=wi

I've got heater C in the stepvan shop in the back. 20,000 Btu is a LOT of
recovered waste heat. I can make it 90F in short order when it's 25F
outside. Take your pick. All you need is standard auto heater hose and a
shutoff valve (also available from Mill Supply on this website) to control
it and secure it in the off season.

Of course, I wouldn't recommend it for raw water cooled engines. Seawater
would eat it in short order....

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 09:00:31 -0500, Larry wrote:

"Ken Heaton" wrote in
news:HYvTf.3141$J43.2422@edtnps90:

This is a setup similar to a automotive heater. A very small water
coil (looks like a little car radiator) is in a cabinet with a fan.
It draws air from the cabin, blows it through the water coil and back
out into the cabin area. No air is drawn from the engine area. The
water coil is in the coolant line that takes the hot water from the
engine to the heat exchanger so it get the heat out of the water
before the heat exchanger gets rid of it.

Cool. I bet I could rig up something like that via my mixing elbow or
directly off the side of the A4. I don't have a heat exchange, though,
which brings me to Larry's point.



http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?r=ms&p=wi

I've got heater C in the stepvan shop in the back. 20,000 Btu is a LOT of
recovered waste heat. I can make it 90F in short order when it's 25F
outside. Take your pick. All you need is standard auto heater hose and a
shutoff valve (also available from Mill Supply on this website) to control
it and secure it in the off season.

Of course, I wouldn't recommend it for raw water cooled engines. Seawater
would eat it in short order....

I'm in fresh water, Larry, and use raw water with a 180 F Holley
thermostat in the usual spot on the head of the A4. I usually top out
at 175 F when at cruising speed, which means a fair bit of hot water
is going out the stern. I will mull on this to figure out if there's a
way to do this with as few restrictions as possible. Your stepvan unit
is cruder, but cheaper, and I can think of a few places it would fit.
I can also think of using ganged muffin fans and copper tubing, but
again, this might be a custom job. Most people want A/C, but in Lake
Ontario, late April-June and late September to haulout in late
October, it's hard to keep the cabin warm when underway.

R.

rhys wrote in news:d42u125tg01hqe3uqr8ng49hludjkbgnqd@
4ax.com:

I'm in fresh water, Larry, and use raw water with a 180 F Holley
thermostat in the usual spot on the head of the A4. I usually top out
at 175 F when at cruising speed, which means a fair bit of hot water
is going out the stern. I will mull on this to figure out if there's a
way to do this with as few restrictions as possible. Your stepvan unit
is cruder, but cheaper, and I can think of a few places it would fit.
I can also think of using ganged muffin fans and copper tubing, but
again, this might be a custom job. Most people want A/C, but in Lake
Ontario, late April-June and late September to haulout in late
October, it's hard to keep the cabin warm when underway.

R.


Screw it to the cabin floor right up against the bulkhead under the
table. Air goes in the top of it, through the fan, down through the
radiator then comes out of any or all of the 3 doors that open and close
to control where the heat is blown along the cold, cold deck. Wouldn't
that be nice on a cold morning, warm air blowing up under the breakfast
table from the toasty-warm decking your bare feet are enjoying?...(c;

If you get one, do what I did, and get the fan speed rheostat from the
heater parts webpage. This allows you to run the fan at whatever speed
you desire, which also controls Btu output of course, to just the right
level. Too warm? No problem....simply turn the fan speed down. After
warming the initially-cold cabin, you can turn the fan way down until you
can barely hear it run. That's how I run mine...(c;

Run wide open, this heater will absorb so much heat from the cooling
system of a 6.2L GM diesel V-8 riding around the city...the thermostat
doesn't open! I can actually make the temperature guage DROP unless the
engine is running over 25 mph!

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:41:03 -0500, Larry wrote:


Run wide open, this heater will absorb so much heat from the cooling
system of a 6.2L GM diesel V-8 riding around the city...the thermostat
doesn't open! I can actually make the temperature guage DROP unless the
engine is running over 25 mph!

Do you think I can build something a little less large with a car
heater core and a large muffin fan? My only concern would be to keep
the hose runs managable, meaning I would probably put the heater core
in the galley or in the nav station, blowing out.

Of course, the idea would be (usually) that the boat is semi-warm from
shore-power and ceramic heater cubes, but that warmth can be
maintained while we are underway for crew not actually on deck during
those periods when we are motorsailing.

I'm going for the KISS element here, and am simply blueskying. I know
a guy who uses an immersion element plumbed into the cooling system
that heats up five gallons of water in a pop syrup cylinder, providing
his head and galley with hot pressure water.

Me, I don't need to go quite THAT far, but the warmth from the engine
would help to keep the boat dry(er) until the sun starts to get over
the deck.

R.

The heater I've seen in the Viking 33 is in the base of a galley cabinet,
probably to keep hose runs short. It blows out. I dont remember where the
air intake is. It works fine from there.
--
Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
Cape Breton Island, Canada
kenheaton at eastlink dot ca

"rhys" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:41:03 -0500, Larry wrote:


Run wide open, this heater will absorb so much heat from the cooling
system of a 6.2L GM diesel V-8 riding around the city...the thermostat
doesn't open! I can actually make the temperature guage DROP unless the
engine is running over 25 mph!

Do you think I can build something a little less large with a car
heater core and a large muffin fan? My only concern would be to keep
the hose runs managable, meaning I would probably put the heater core
in the galley or in the nav station, blowing out.

Of course, the idea would be (usually) that the boat is semi-warm from
shore-power and ceramic heater cubes, but that warmth can be
maintained while we are underway for crew not actually on deck during
those periods when we are motorsailing.

I'm going for the KISS element here, and am simply blueskying. I know
a guy who uses an immersion element plumbed into the cooling system
that heats up five gallons of water in a pop syrup cylinder, providing
his head and galley with hot pressure water.

Me, I don't need to go quite THAT far, but the warmth from the engine
would help to keep the boat dry(er) until the sun starts to get over
the deck.

R.